For any company, it will probably be their premium, maybe even commercial lines. In another current (minisplit) thread in this forum, there is a link to a site that has a Daikin catalog that you can download. In the olden days, a decade or so ago, it was not unheard of to install a "desuperheater" in residential air conditioning equipment. At that time, I believe that it would have been difficult to find a residential-only contractor with experience. I dare say it would have been unusual. Commercial and industrial contractors certainly did. Now, with increasingly complicated controls and sophisticated integration of different individual parts of a system, I don't know if it is possible to insert a water-heating element and controls into a unified residential system. Others here might have experience. If not, there are other forums that have a lot of pros offering advice to individuals, but don't let unvetted pros or amateurs post. Good luck

"My main question here is: Is it normal for a digital thermostat to show a temperature of 2-3F below (or above) the temperature setting? In my personal experience, I've never seen a digital thermometer register that far off the mark unless it was out of coolant. It was checked two weeks ago, so that can't be the problem." - If the reading on the t-stat is 2 to 3 degrees below the setpoint temperature, the auxillary heat strips will come on to try and raise the room temp to the setpoint. Have you measured the difference in temperature before the inside coil and right after the inside coil? This is called the split temperature. My new Goodman GSH 14 SEER heat pump puts out 95-degree air when it's 47 outside, 91 degree air when it's 30 outside (no aux heat running). If your heat pump puts out similar temps after the coil, the heat pump is not the issue. Sounds like you have air distribution issues. Good luck.

Well I just got an estimate from Sears on a Kenmore 15 seer unit with a matching airhandler he gave me the model numbers but I can't find any information on it. He did tell me that they aren't actually made by kenmore but buy United Technologys (I think thats what he said) and that they were the same company that makes Carrier. So is there any truth to this? And does anyone have any information on these models: Kenmore NXH524GKA Heat pump Kenmore FVM4X24 Air handler He did come in cheaper than yesterdays Goodman quote. It seems like no one has anything good to say about any units including trane, carrier and goodman on furnacecompare.com so unless your an expert how do really know which one to buy?

"The two contractors below came up with a 2.5 size but heat pumps only come in whole sizes. Am I over sizing the unit if I go with the 3 ton heat pump?" The heat pumps you were quoted are 2-stage models. All 2-stage heat pumps come in whole ton sizes. You would have to get a single stage heat pump in order to get the 2.5 ton size. I am in central NJ so my climate is very similar to yours. Did you review the load calculations? Is the 1800 sq. feet all on the second floor below attic space? Given attic poor insulation (R19 or less?), the 2.5 ton may be slightly under sized. In my opinion I don't think a 2-stage 3 ton heat pump is over sized. We would have to look at the data sheet, but most likely the lower stage will be less than 2.5 tons. It is difficult to comment on the price because of the required duct work. It sounds there is a lot of labor involved in the new duct work and attic installation. Contractors don't like to break out line item cost. Getting one price is very common. You have gotten 8 bids, so you compare prices. You did the right thing by rejecting people who don't even go into the attic. The answer you other questions, I think 2-stage equipment is worth the extra money. It is going to do a better job of lowering the humidity in the summer. It should also be quieter when running on the low stage while you are sleeping. I think suspending the air handler from the rafters is the best way to minimize noise. I don't have experience with attic installed equipment, but it seems logical you would cut down the vibration from the ceiling. You want R8 insulated ducts in the attic. The main duct should be metal and all joints should have mastic. The flexible ducts should have no kinks. If it looks bad to your eye then it is probably bad. You are doing the right thing by investing in improved duct work. I like Carrier over Lennox. You also want a 2-stage thermostat. Find out the model number and make sure it is in the quote.