The Kenmore model is sourced from LG. The Maytag and Whirlpools are siblings, based on Fisher & Paykel mechanical design using their SmartDrive motor. LG uses a similar motor. You can see parts diagrams by model number search at SearsPartsDirect.com or Whirlpool's site under Owner Center / Manuals & Literature. The Kenmore model number referenced, 29002, is not the full number. Kenmore 796.29002010 Maytag MVWB750W Whirlpool WTW7300XW Whirlpool WTW7600XW

Well, my new stackable W/D was delivered this morning. The dryer has a dent on the side that we didn't notice until the installers had it stacked. It was a pain to get hooked up as the space is very shallow, but it really fits in well and gives me room on the other side of my laundry sink for shelving now. When I used the washer though, it was making this horrible metal on ,metal thumbing sound. The drivers had just left, but heard it over the phone and said it sounded as if I had gotten a machine that they tested in the warehouse, where they sometimes forget to disconnect the shipping bolts before testing. they don't like to disconnect and then reconnect them. My new new new washer is being delivered tomorrow morning. the poor delivery guys now have to uninstall all of the machines and redo everything. The machines do work beautifully though. I can do 2 loads of wash in the time it would normally take me to do one very small one. I really think I made a good choice in going to a front loader. Even with a semi broken washer, the clothes look cleaner and take less than half the time to dry. Everything I put in the washer I can put in one dryer load. No more splitting up loads to fit in the dryer. I know it won't pay for itself in money as they were much more expensive than regular top loaders, but they will pay for themselves in time. I will be doing half the loads I normally do. I really don't see a real steep learning curve either. The quick start card that is laminated is very easy to understand and the manual gives many helpful hints. Customer service was also very easy to reach. Hope all goes well from now on.

Leaking does not necessarily indicate a fatal problem. Can be simple as a worn water pump or loose/rusted hose clamp.

A 120v circuit cannot run a 240v dryer, different plug types and 120v power isn't strong enough to make the machine run. You'd have to bring in an electrician to install a 240v circuit and outlet. That being said, some 240v dryers can be wired to run on either 120v or 240v power (by changing how the machine's internal wires connect at the terminal block where the cord attaches) ... but the result is that the wattage output of the heating element is 4x less at 120v than at 240v (which is where the slower drying time comes in). Of course a dryer that is already factory-wired for 120v is also 4x less wattage than a comparable 240v dryer. A dryer designed for only 120v power cannot be run on a 240v circuit. A 120v circuit can provide a maximum of 1,500 to 1,800 watts (irons, coffee makers, portable space heaters, hair dryers, etc.). A 240v 30 amp circuit can provide up to 5,600 watts (dryers, water heaters). Volts X amps = wattage. 240v x 30a = 7,200 watts ... but electrical codes limit circuit loads to 80% of the full wattage for safety reasons. Electric ranges typically are on 240v 50amp circuits (they can pull more power than an electric water heater if the oven and all the burners are on at the same time).