No you can see everything you need on the Tradewind web site. They have detailed pics with each piece labeled and the use of said piece defined. I learned everything I needed to know about hoods on their site. I have the inline silencer and also the neoprene pieces at joints. This greatly reduces noise . 10" is what you need for duct. The actual air is what makes noise so you reduce that as much as possible which is why you want baffles and large duct, Also it is why you want "more" rather than less cfm so you can run it on less and get more :) I have a 54" 1400 cfm mounted 33" over our 36" gas Caldera and Miele deep fat fryer. Their total space is 54" too. Due to the size of the hood and the cfm I didn't need to go any extra inches. The capture is perfect as it is. You don't have to go wider than your 36"either if you don't want to ...mount it at the proper height and get a good hood and you are set. Remember to turn it on 5-10 min before you start to cook to get the air flowing and then leave it on for that same time at the end to get it all out. Here is the other thread with my pics and a link to the other discussion with more pics. c Here is a link that might be useful: Tradewind hood pics

Between 460 and 600 cfms, it's better to have more cfms, and be able to run the hood on medium, than be forced to have the hood on high most of the time. Other questions to ask - do either of these hoods have baffle filters, or are the filters made of mesh? The Viking has baffle; the XO filters look odd to me though the description says baffle filters. Baffle filters are preferable because mesh filters can quickly clog with grease which impedes airflow. You have to be more diligent with cleaning mesh filters, though of course you have to clean baffles too, but not as frequently. The other question is the depth of these hoods front-to-back. Too shallow, and it won't cover the front burners, so you are paying for a hood that can't exhaust over the front burners which doesn't make any sense. Try to get a 24" depth if you can. If that is out of your price range, then settle for no less than 22". The XO is 22", and the Viking is 21" deep. The XO has a bad review on the ajmadison site. You asked whether Viking has better quality. Viking has had a poor reputation for quality for many years. They were good decades ago, not recently. The ajmadison site is very good because its search function drills down into details. I suggest you keep looking.

Consumer hoods are much louder than commercial hoods, primarily because consumer hoods have a small aperture (bottom opening) and no containment area so they try, unsuccesfully, to make up for this with higher air flow rates. More: https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/5161173/hood-faq It's always surprised me that I can stand by a commercial hood pulling 1400 CFM and eliminating nearly all effluent, odors and grease and carry on a quiet conversation while consumer hoods, whether 300 cfm or 600 or 1200 are massively louder and much less effective at removing effluent, grease and odors. The best way to reduce noise is to get a commercial hood from someone like CaptiveAire. These are really not that expensive but are larger which some people don't like. Otherwise, you should use an inline or exterior blower (e.g., no blower in the hood itself) and install a silencer between the hood and blower.

"Thank you, Kaseki! I’ve been reading your past posts-would you mind sharing again what cooking device/range hood/ makeup air system you chose and why?" You may find images of elements of my kitchen in various posts. I won't repeat them here. Also, some hood flow parameters may be found in FAQ I. Please note that my kitchen reno planning began in 2007, with most purchases of appliances made at the end of that year. Delivery was taken significantly later for most items, but well in time to confirm measurements and interface details. Explaining rationale would make this tediously long, take too much of my time, and jack this thread. I owe a kitchen photo to the FAQ II thread, and one or more should appear in the fullness of time. The cooktop: I have two induction cooktops, a 36-inch Frigidaire Gallery (replacing a 36-inch Electrolux clone Kenmore that failed after 5 years or so) and a Cooktek 3500W induction wok. These are set in soapstone over cabinets in which there is added stone support and wire racks for pans, providing maximum air volume for cooling. The hood system: Overspreading these is Wolf's largest Pro Island hood set at 34.5 inches above the counter. The hood connects to a damper, then a Fantech silencer, and then a Wolf (Broan) 1500 CFM roof blower (which has a damper). (As I have explained many times, once installed in a hood system blowers cannot flow their rated CFM due to pressure losses. I have measured, however, about 1000 CFM with presently passive MUA and no other household exhaust blowers operating.) Duct is 10-inch. The secondary hood system: There is a secondary system comprising a pair of ceiling registers (14 x 20 if I recall), 3M Filtrite filters in the register boxes, a damper, silencer, and roof mounted NuTone down-blast blower. I believe this blower is rated 600 CFM, but can't find my literature for it as it was originally bought to provide additional flow for a '70s cooking center with miniscule blower performance. The registers are ceiling mounted over a pair of Wolf wall ovens. The MUA: I have planned an active MUA system, but all parts have not yet been acquired. There seems to be no end to new "required" projects. The system as it presently exists is operated passive, and comprises a highly ventilated attic with an additional roof-mounted down-blast commercial blower housing for eventual ducted air intake, a one-inch pleat 24 x 24 furnace filter (to be replaced with a lower pressure loss 4-inch pleated canister version, a 30 x 30 heat exchanger connected to my oil-fired hydronic heating system, and a 36 x 36 diffuser at the end of a hall that connects to the kitchen. The control system for this is intended to keep the kitchen pressure equal to the outdoor pressure (which will be the attic pressure once the MUA is ducted). Some elements of this are place. A Fuji computer module in a DIN control array next to my furnace will attempt to adjust its natural frequencies (poles and zeros) such as to make a stable MUA system independent of the main hood flow rate, the wall oven vent flow rate, and bathroom blower flow rates. The differential pressure sensor upstream and motor downstream control loops are 20 mA current type. Separate sensors and controls are used to keep the heat exchanger from freezing when not in use and otherwise keeping the air passing it temperate. Blower will be the largest that can get into the attic that Fantech sells that incorporates the 10 Vdc control voltage motor. (I forget the part number.) This wasn't available back ca. 2010, nor did Fantech list a motor controller that could handle that size motor back then. If starting from scratch, I would investigate the present offerings of Electro and Fantech to minimize my work, but large flow rate in an assembled unit would likely not fit into the attic without removing the diffuser and heat exchanger for a one-time installation. While balanced air pressure is highly desirable for several reasons repeated often on this forum, I should note that my System 2000 oil furnace has its own MUA and a sealed exhaust stack installed within the original brick chimney that served the previous one- and two-generations-back Beckett boilers. The hot water storage is heated via a hydronic loop on the furnace, and the dryer is electric. Hence, back-drafting of combustion appliances is not an issue. To deal with the flow to the MUA heat exchanger (capable of 120k BTUh if necessary) as well as the longer reaches of my house hydronic plumbing, I use a larger (higher head vs. flow rate) Taco pump than is usual.