Thanks for that. I did as you wrote for the back of the vanity (cutting about an inch off the corner), but since the vanity stands on the right hand edge kickboard, I couldn't cut the base there to such a steep angle. My eventual solution was to attach legs and level the vanity using those. I raised the unit just enough to push the top (the ceramic overlaps the cabinet) close enough to the right wall. Raising the unit also made sure the tile-plaster hole stayed out of sight (scribing the kickboard would have lowered the unit enough to make this visible) My original comment about the holes in the back of the basin were wrong. When I looked more closely, 2 were on the back only (not through the unit) and the other 2 were quite difficult to access. I'm now looking at screwing the unit through the cabinet and tiles. Actually my house doesn't have a dry wall. Its all brick (on limestone footings) - which is pretty standard here in Perth, Australia. I had an interesting time figuring out how to do the trap. The new sink connected to a p-trap was offset in all of height, width and depth from the drain protruding from the brick wall. The height was about 3 inches, the width about 2 inches and the depth less than an inch. If I had my time again I'd have used a flexible coupling, but I saw comments that they are more likely to clog. I attached some PVC together but it didn't fit by the tiny width of a 40mm (1 1/2"?) joiner. I didn't want to shorten the wall outlet, but have now removed as small amount as I could. Here's hoping it comes together :)

Davidro-lol, so true! I actually thought this morning when I saw the dirty dishes that my kids and DH had so kindly stacked in the sink for me, "And why exactly did I want a larger one?" Jilljohn-But at least you have the other half of the sink to use! But it's okay...I'm slowly getting used to it. A 9" sink? I'm trying to picture that! I don't really think that is something that buyers notice when touring homes, so hopefully you won't have to replace it. I think we're going to keep it. I do now have a garbage disposal where I did not before, so I'm pretty pleased with that. :)

lo_yost: I've done your job: It's a lot more work than just cutting the engineered stone for $300.00. Figure five times that plus the cost of the Pete's Sink Mount kit ($300.00) and the cost of the sink. Engineered stone cuts more easily than natural stone. Either way, the guy cutting the estone had better be able to patch when he bisects an old sink clip penetration: You can't be afraid to tap off the cabinet front; there is no other way to get the sink in because the bowl is deeper than the cabinet rail. After the front is pulled the sink is set in place but forward enough to get the front back on. When the front is on, the sink apron is pushed to the cabinet front. Hot melt glue the front to the cabinet sides just like they did at the factory. Silicone the flange, tighten the Pete's which raises the sink into final position, wipe off the silicone (match the top, not the sink) and you're done. Good luck.

Please don't. The warranty will specifically state that the subfloor must be clean flat and smooth. The warranty/installation instructions will clearly state that if you are going over top of an 'old floor' it must be (clean, flat and smooth) well ADHERED to the subfloor. A floating floor is just that...floating. It is not adhered to anything. It should take 30 minutes to remove the old vinyl floor. You will also want to pop off the trim on the walls (probably quarter round or shoe mold) before you install the new floor. Once the old floor is gone and the new floor is installed, you will then reinstall the trim. And don't forget that the new vinyl will TELEGRAPH anything sitting underneath (like bevels from the old floor underneath) as well it will raise the floor height which means you will have to have a NEW transition strip created for the doorway. If you simply rip out the old floor, you will likely be able to reuse the old transition strip currently sitting in the doorway.