We are doing master bath remodel and previous owners had vinyl plank flooring laid over the concrete foundation-- the people who did the work said that if the baseboard is high enough (ours is about 3" of wood--not tile.. they said the vinyl plank was run to the baseboards and cut to fit then silicone caulk was used along that joint... So far have noticed no issues anyplace in house this was done--not just in bathroom... we are taking out all LVT in master suite and replacing it with 1 type of flooring for unified look after master bath is redone--since we can't get the type of flooring in there now--not made anymore-- they won't need to add a quarter round on top of the LVT... so as long as you are happy with how the LVT would look butting up to the ceramic tile baseboard--maybe you can do the same... IS the ceramic baseboard in good shape? Still tight?

No I did not remove the tile except around the sink to remove the old sink. I built forms from wood but the wood on the front was removed after the concrete set for a couple hours and the wood underneath removed the next day. Here is a photo of the concrete in the pass through window after I removed the front mold part. I left the wood underneath to support the overhang until the concrete reached near full strength the next day. You can see some leakage on the right I had to chisel away later. If you do this, I highly recommend caulking all the molds - I only did some areas because I thought I had screwed the soft wood tight enough but I was wrong, the resulting leaks caused all my problem areas. I should have caulked all the seams on the wood molds and I would not have had the problem. The counters still look great after months of use, BTW! here are some pics of the molds: Big mess caused by leak- made painting the cabinets later a lot more work to sand off all that gunk. The leaks also created air gaps in the mold area I couldn't see until the concrete was set, I later had to hand trowel a thick mixture on those areas to repair it. It will never look as smooth as the mold-formed areas. My plan for next spring is to tile the backsplash if budget allows - the beadboard wallpaper is serving its purpose for now but tile will look nicer.

Little bit of an observation It is getting very hard for tile pros to even bother commenting on these forums, everyone is now a tile expert repeating things they learned on the web and getting it wrong more ofthen than not. Im not on the legal forum giving legal advice nor am i much commenting on designers threads. That is a general observation and the reason less and less actual tile pros are commenting here. And thats not directly intended to slam Patricia, nor any one person I know she usualy has good advice. I suppose the only undebateable way to answer here is to copy actual industry standards. @ OP. No caulking either you need a 1/4" expansion joint at the entire permiter of the assembly COVERED over by base board PER TCNA specs. In regards to the "Whole house comment" here is the answer directly from the TCNA updates to the 2017 handbook. Why are movement joints needed? Recognizing that tile is a facade, movement joints are needed to eliminate stresses that can occur between the substrate and the tile due to differing amounts of expansion and contraction. Where should movement joints be placed? The TCNA Handbook recommends allowing for expansion and contraction in every tile installation. In small rooms, a gap at the perimeter of the room (often hidden by baseboard or shoe molding) is sufficient. For larger areas, the movement joints will be visible. We cannot specify the exact location nor frequency of movement joints as there are many site related conditions that must be addressed; however, we do offer guidelines in Detail EJ171 in the TCNA Handbook. It is especially important to note for interior installations, movement joints are placed more frequently when moisture or direct sunlight is expected. For exterior installations, the range of temperature from summer highs to winter lows must be considered. Updates and more: Even though the TCNA Handbook is published every year, the majority of the changes are made in odd numbered years. There are many changes to the 2017 Handbook; here is a summary of the expanded and clarified sections. EJ171 Some of the most important changes are found in EJ171, concerning the location and installation of movement joints in the tiled assembly. These changes were made to help clarify the guidelines to architects, engineers and installers. First, the location of a movement joint is no longer confined to a range; rather, proper placement is defined with a maximum spacing and no minimum spacing. Interior movement joints shall be placed no more than 25'apart in both directions. Movement joints in exterior installations, interiors exposed to direct sunlight and above-ground tile installations shall be spaced NO more than 12' apart in both directions.

So it seems that you now have a sliding door so that you can use the controls and then slide the door back in place to enter since the vanity effectively blocks direct entrance? So if the door no longer slides to open there would no longer be access to the controls on that wall. FWIW I actually love the pink and gray tiles and personally would keep those in place and decorate around them - change the floor to something more in keeping with the period and change the vanity as well. The tile work and gray tub is fabulous and the tiles look as if they are in great shape. This might not be the fix you are looking for - my controls are at the entry but I actually find it easier to get in the shower and use my diverter for the hand held and point it away from me until the temperature is the right temperature which is probably about 15 seconds. I don't get deluged with cold water but obviously if I wanted or anyone else wanted they could access the controls from the outside.