Malathion is strong stuff and is not my first choice and I can even add that it appears inaffective to a small scale type that is tan/red in color and very dense in population,having no squishy innards to indicate life.They are flat and dry,overlapping and cause severe discoloration to leaves.I have them attacking an apidestra and rhapsis palms.I have tried everything to eliminate them,but they just come back,even afer repeated applications of everything under the sun as well as cutting the apidestra down to the ground.The Malathion did work very well on traditional scale and succeeded where other,less toxic remedies failed.I did have to use it a few times and as these plants will be used in my chameleon enclosures,I did not want this to be my first choice.It is not systemic and with a few good rinsings in warm/soapy water and a week or so outside to air out,I would expect it to be safe.I reiterate what Toni said about it harming the gardenias.Some plants do have a marked sensitivity to it.It has burned or blanched some leaves on the rhapsis palms and a draceana,but these will regrow to cover the damage.Scales are most prolific on stressed trees and plants,keeping plants in the best possible conditions, should help to avoid the scale.Adult scale do not find their way back tot he tree, if knocked or scraped off.Even if they did,scraping them off usually breaks the proboscis they feed with an dthey would starve.The adults are more or less something to wait out,the crawlers(moblile stage of the scale) is what you are really after with spraying and that is why reapplication is needed.The adults die off on their own in a while,if you can kill the new generation before they take hold,you are winning the battle.I HATE SCALE!!!

Water under your airhandler could mean one of several things.... plugged drain line.... dirty evaporator coil...or even low charge of refrigerant. Make sure you have blown thru the 3/4" completely. You might even want to take it apart and make sure the "P" trap has no slime or as i like to call it..."Snot", which likes to build up in the trap. If all clear, then look up into the inside of the coil from the bottom if its an upflow airhandler (upflow units draw air in from the bottom, down flow pulls air in from above the coil)and see if the fins are dirty. As the units runs, it draws water from the air to the surface of the coil. The fins of the coil are designed to hold that water as gravity pulls the water into the pan but if the coil has a coating of dirt or slimey snot on them, then the water hits the dirt or slime, looses its grip and falls straight down. Here is a picture of a extremely dirty coil i pulled out a couple years ago. It is turned on its back to see the inside. The pan is the black plastic part, which also needs to be clear of dirt, slime, even dead bugs. If your coil is dirty, you should call an service tech and have them clean it. Remember.... if your coil is in this shape, no spray on cleaner you buy at a store will clean this completely. You need to have the coil cut out, washed and reinstalled. Finally, being low of refrigerant can cause a coil to ice up. Once its iced up, no air can pass thru the coil and it gets thicker with ice. When the home owner finally realizes this and shuts the a/c off, that ice will melt. Even if the coil is clean, the amount of water frozen in the ice is too much for the drain system to handle and it will leak. This too needs a a/c tech to be repaired properly. Hope this helps

So yesterday buddy comes over to look over things with the a/c system and I think we've got things nailed down properly now. The superheat for the given ambient temperature and heat loading from the indoor coil was way off (5F) vs. the 14-15F that it was supposed to be so he had to remove some of the refrigerant (I was quite surprised how little he had to remove to get the superheat up) and we even went as far as measuring the furnace's CFM flow rating using a differential manometer. I'm pushing roughly 1000CFM across a 2 ton coil so which is a tad bit on the high side but my colleauge says it's a margin of safety for the a/c to not freeze over as we have relatively little humidity in the air would means that on the cooler days we wouldn't be heat loading the coil enough which could lead to freeze up. I personally would like to try running my furnace on the lowest speed to get the 855 CFM but I'm not sure how that will affect the superheat. Presumably I would imagine that if a system is charged properly using the superheat method for fixed orifice systems that blower speed shouldn't dramatically impact the superheat values to the point where they're completely out of whack. I would guess that superheat would rise but isn't that sort of a given? I mean hotter days for example would increase loading so therefore superheat should rise no? For the record the pressure reading on the manometer with the furnace on medium low with a 3M 1500 series filter installed has a -0.44 in wg static pressure difference. With no filter the static pressure diff changes to -0.55. Humidity was still somewhat of an issue yesterday night when it was raining but it was quite cool outside. I had to drop the tstat to 21C to force start the a/c on but after just 20 minutes the house was nice and dry and less stuffy. Just for the sake of my understanding does TXV technically do any better or worse job of temperature/humidity control over a fixed orifice system IF both systems were installed properly and charged to near perfection? I have a friend that is looking to install a/c and his contractor insists on having TXV and says that fixed orifice is evil and should never be used. I find that rather extreme to make a claim like that. I've tried to do my own research online and although it's a given that TXV is the way to go I think it has a lot to do with the fact that it will better protect the compressor from liquid flooding + it's more forgiving for techs that do an incorrect charge on the system - critical charge isn't nearly as important on a TXV system vs. fixed orifice. Thanks,

Thought I'd add a quick update - the error has not returned yet. I got the error light the first cycle I ran after the repair folks came, and possibly on the load after that (can't remember for sure), but in the last 4-5 loads the cycle has been finishing up properly. The Miele repair guy actually gave me a call on Monday and wanted to know more about what was happening since he saw that I have another visit scheduled for this Friday. He thought it might have been a stored error since it happened right after they left and then appears to have worked itself out. I'm going to be running a couple more loads today and tomorrow and will cancel the service call if the error doesn't return till I see the Filter/Vent light again. Overall relieved that this is the case, but half expect the error to return after a few more loads.