There is at least one farmhouse sink that is a drop-in or "overmount" style - the Domsjo sink from Ikea. Undermount sinks of any style don't pair well with laminate because it is difficult to seal the cut edges of the laminate against water. Same problem with butcherblock, although people still do it and seem to have reasonable success with marine sealers like Waterlox.

The domsjo sink is also nice because it's "counter depth", i.e., it goes all the way back and you don't have that drop-off that accumulates water and gunk.

Here is a link that might be useful: Domsjo sink

I have an undermount small shaws sink in my laundry room with laminate. I can be done technically, but fisheggs is correct, the issue is that water will warp/distort/unpeel the wood/board material so it is not recommended with laminate. I probably would not do it in the kitchen myself, because I am messy, and farm sinks are extra splashy, but in my laundry room that sink gets infrequent use, and I can easily dry the edges if it gets wet.

You could have a farm sink but don't undermount/or flush mount it, raise it a little higher than the counter, that would be safer, but others may have more info on that. Also as a bonus, farm sinks are deep, and people don't realize that undermount deep sinks are hard on the back. So raising it up a little has an extra benefit.

If the cut-out for your farm sink is perfectly straight w/ square corners, you can laminate the edge that faces the sink. That ought to be pretty waterproof--as waterproof as it would be on the front of the counter by a drop-in.

And you can caulk where the counter meets the sink.

Shaws sinks can be installed so that they are slightly higher than the counter next to it. If you don't undermount, that would solve your problem.

I used undermount oval lavatories with laminate in all three of my bathrooms. BUT, I fabricated the countertops myself & used plywood for the substrate and backpainted the underside of the plywood with an oil base swimming pool paint. Used a narrow strip of laminate to cover the raw edge of the plywood Then I caulked the seam where sink mounts to the plywood---and periodically inspect it to make sure it's holding up. They're holding up quite well some 6-8 years down the road. (Alternately, you could also laminate the underside of the countertop for extra protection--especially in the case of a kitchen sink. Wouldn't need to laminate the whole back side but just enough to have laminate extend 6 inches of so around the sink cutout.)

The basics probs are that most countertops are prefabs and use particle board for the substrate. (Particle board realllly hates water.) And cutting a hole leaves you with a raw edge and no way to finish it...or almost no way. There is a cheesy looking system available but it isn't something I would use.

Am planning to use an undermount sink with a laminate countertop in the new kitchen. Need to keep an eye to how tight the bends are at the corners of the sink (for the edge banding)...but using a hair dryer or heat gun would make the laminate easier to bend, I'm thinking.

Thank you all. So I could have it if I have the Shaw's slightly higher then the laminate? Does anyone have a picture of this? Pretty, pretty please.

My Whitehaus kitchen farm sink is also slightly upmounted; I don't think it would matter at all what the counter is made of.

As long as the outside of the sink is finished, at least for the top inches that will show, you ought to be able to make almost any farmhouse sink rise above the counter slightly.

You can undermount it, as long as you use a solid surface edge treatment on your laminate. This disconnects the sink from the substrate and laminate.

I also believe that if your countertop fabricator was saavy, he could use a solid surface substrate under the laminate in the sink area, and avoid contact between the sink and the other wood substrates.