Not sure I'd replace it with same - the physics are the same so the crazing is just as likely to happen in the replacement, AFTER you spend ANOTHER 2 grand to replace it out! That they readily acknowledged the problem and offered to replace it shows it's not as "rare" a happening as they claim...

Fourth option would be for them to refund your sink price and use it for something else unrelated!

I would continue to call them repeatedly in an attempt to get a refund for at least a good portion of the sink so you can purchase something else.

Take the replacement and sell it on Craigslist?

Did you get a price to replace the sink or is that just a guess? Do you know how the sink was installed? This will impact if it can be replaced easily. I would ask for the replacement sink, get it on site and figure out if the dimensions work. If it does not, I would sell the replacement sink in eBay and use the proceed to buy a new sink of your choice.

Good luck!

That sink change out should be around $750.00 tops.

The sink may not fit the cabinet as they are +/- up to 2". So it may need a new cabinet, recut the soapstone (if it doesn't get damaged in removal), plus we are in a very high cost of living area, so everything with labor costs twice as much as what I see for other areas of the country.

I am agreeing with others. Either ask for some amount of refund, or take the sink and resell it. While it drives me bonkers to have crazing in a stupidly expensive sink, it wouldn't bother me so much in a cheap/free sink.

platypuspup:

It's a sink change out. The cabinet is fine and will not be affected, nor the soapstone.

So what if the sink they deliver is 2" smaller than the one there? The cabinet front is cut to fit the original sink- it's not a drop in. Also, can you slide the sink out when glued to the underside of the soapstone?

A sink that is 2" smaller is not a replacement sink. The replacement sink will be within 1/16" of an inch +-.

You hammer a stiff scraper between the bottom of the stone and the sink flange to break any caulk or adhesive bond. Or if you're not recycling, break it out with a sledge.

It's a 2% difference, not 2"; what?

Casey

Oh, okay, someone who posted about this a couple years ago said their's was delivered and the size difference was a problem, and must have had a typo. Even with +/- 2% though... on a 30" sink that is +/- 0.6 in. So if you went from one extreme to the other (not the most likely I will grant) you could have a difference of 1.2" which is not ignorable in terms of fitting the cabinet.

I remember Sophie saying that this sink could be replaced easy enough if the sink base is sized appropriately for the sink.

the reason I remember...is that mine is not. My 36" Rohl sink was put into a 36" sink base. I'm just grateful that after 11 yrs it's never needed to be replaced.

what size is your sink and what size is your sink base?

With most products, warranties don't include labor. Farm and apron sinks are great looking, but difficulty with replacement is one thing to consider when selecting that type of sink installation. However, unlike Farm Sinks (there is a difference), with apron front sinks, you don't have the 1-2% fit issue with the cabinet cutout. Apron sinks overlay the cutout. Since farm sinks have become so popular in the last 15 years, I have started to recommend the apron type instead (ie Kohler Whitehaven) because it's a bit easier to replace it. Although it is very heavy.

To the original poster, take the replacement sink...it's your best option. To save on the labor, are you or anyone in the family skilled enough to unhook the plumbing, remove the sink and place the new one in? And just pay for the plumber to re-hook the plumbing? That's the only other alternative I could think of.

Or...get the new sink and hold on to it until a better time where you can have someone do the work.

If you have a problem you better call right away. I read in here about hairline cracks after I bought my sink but before it was installed. I told my contractor to be very careful not to over tighten when installing the garbage disposal. I always pour hot water down the bathroom sink or let it cool and turn on the cold water before pouring it down mine. Called Rohl today and they requested pictures and said had I called within a year maybe they could have done something now --No. Nothing. My fault should have called right when I noticed it. I didn't think it would get worse

Also I always have the grate in. I took it out to take the picture they requested.

Very disappointed with crazing in Shaw Farmhouse sink just six months after install. Plan on contacting Rohl for replacement but it Will cost way more than sink to re-install it as it is custom fit under quartzite countertops. Would never buy again and brand new high end sink now an everyday eyesore.

Crazing on fireclay sinks a common complaint. You can google or search this forum for many posts about it. There has also been issues when disposals were installed and the fireclay cracked at the drain unless the installer was extremely careful and tightened the disposal flange like it was nitroglycerine about to go off.

A sink grid helps prevent the crazing.

same thing happened here.

I do not have a garbage disposal and do use a grate to protect the basin and still have crazing in my Shaw sink, although not as bad as the picture above. Mine is more like hairline cracks. Beyond disappointed.

We just noticed ours too !

We just noticed our crazing after having the sink for 7 months. Feel disgusted given the price! I really like how large it is and its style but not sure if the replacement will just do the crazing again. We have a garbage disposal and we use the grate and have been very gentle and attentive to it and it still happened :(. I'm off to watch how to DIY replacing an under mount farmhouse sink on You Tube. Torn on what to do. New Stainless one or put in the replacement.
Wish me luck!

kim:

I don't have any YouTube vids, but I promise you I know more about replacing your sink than anyone on the interwebby. Post some pictures please. Dimensions would be good.

A fireclay repair story; the first I've ever heard. Good for you

Here is the article I read about using a fire brick to repair the cracks:
https://www.qualitybath.com/discover/post/18492/how-to-repair-a-scratched-fireclay-sink

That's really interesting, but I wonder whether your lines were actually cracks in the finish if they could be buffed out to a smooth shine again?

I ask because I have vintage glazed dinnerware that gets silvery "pencil" lines from cutlery or just being rubbed against other dishes in the dishwasher or sink. (I use Wenol chrome polish to remove them, which might be slightly safer than a brick to try on your sink first?)

Thank you. I will give it a try !!

I agree. The brick idea worried me. I don’t want to be left with a rough surface.

Link doesn't work.

@Ev Mann I'm glad we were able to help :)

@Ev Mann Do you have any photos of the before/after? where did you get the firebrick?

Here are 2 before shots, 1 after shot, and the fire brick which I ordered from Amazon. The sponge sized piece that I used is worn down on the corners from the buffing. And remember to wet the brick constantly as you buff.

Those definitely look like the silvery-gray pencil marks discussed above.

@Ev Mann I love the wheel faucet!

As described in the Quality Bath article, the scratches remained visible and touchable after repeated cleaning attempts, so I chose to move forward with the fire brick method. (I had a chip in my last fireclay sink that I lived with for years and I wish I had known about this fix. I would have buffed it out. )
The brick can appear intimidating because it looks rough, but when using it, as you can see by the rounded edges, it gets soft and dissipates as you go. I am convinced because of feeling the cracks by touch that they were indeed glazing cracks. The area that I treated is smooth and shiny, there is no rough surface left at all as a result of using the fire brick.
Hope this helps anyone out there who is crestfallen from seeing glazing cracks in your new fireclay sinks. Our sink is under porcelain tile slab..there was no way we would ever consider replacing it ( which would cost into the thousands as has been described by other posters)..
the credit here goes to the Quality Bath team: thank you for printing the article. (Glad you like the wheel faucet!)

@Ev Mann is the fire brick essentially like pumice? I have used pumice for cleaning hard water mineral deposits from a porcelain toilet. I also have a fireclay sink (Shaw's)- installed ~6 months ago. I repeatedly told the plumber about the need not to overtighten. I was on a work call while he installed the disposal so not sure how that went. Even if I were to have watched him, I'm not sure what I would be able to tell re: tightening but he did say he didn't after the fact. Regardless, I thought everything would be ok because we are 6 months in. But, alas, I noticed our first relatively long (e.g., 1 1/2") fine line crack coming from the drain. I'm interested in trying the firebrick but is it essentially just buffing it down to below the scratch? I just felt the scratch. I can feel it slightly under my fingernail. (quick edit, just found this article... https://homesteady.com/12265081/how-to-fix-scratches-in-a-rohl-fireclay-sink. Looks like pumice could serve the same purpose as the firebrick and be a bit easier to purchase/use?). I'll try it later and let you all know.

New edit: Spoke with Rohl - they are saying 100% that this is due to over tightening and that the crack will get worse.... Uugh.

Dissimilar temperatures seems more likely to cause cracks than overtightening to me.

Sharon:
I do use pumice stones for my porcelain toilets, but decided to get the firebrick specifically for the fireclay. Easy purchase from Amazon.
So far I have not seen any new cracks.
As Joseph mentioned temperature, I have also read that to avoid causing cracks you should not pour boiling hot water directly into the sink. For instance I don’t drain pasta into a colander in the sink. I pull the pasta out of the pot into a serving bowl and let the pot water cool down.
Best of luck Sharon, I hope using the fire brick works for you.

Has the crazing got worse? Does it end up cracking the sink or is it just an issue cosmetically? My fireclay sink has crazing after just a couple of months

My Shaw sink has crazy Crazing! After 6 months. I have a wire rack to protect it

My Fireclay sink is badly crazed--it is also 10 years old but hard for it to look clean. Always used thier wire grid protector. I took such good care of this sink...Belive it or not, Shaw's sent me a new sink, but already 3 different installers/contractors said not to do it. So --not sure what to do now, but if I spend all that money and it starts to craze again, well...crazy is a good word for it--maybe I will use the new one in a future

maybe I will use it in a future bath redo. The grout underneath is all discolored too--maybe I can just have the grout cleaned up? Has anyone actually switched out their sink? Would this look out of place in a bathroom? I have a 105 year old house.

" Has anyone actually switched out their sink?

Yes. We do it all the time. I'd charge you $1,500.00 or so if you were on the south west coast of Florida.

Grout underneath? Are you talking about the silicone between the sink flange and the bottom of the top? If that's nasty, your sink is leaking. My sinks never leak.

It has been awhile since I posted about my experience! Recently I noticed a few cracks on the rim of my sink. I got out the firebrick and buffed them out. Looks good as new.
And as much as I don’t like the looks of the sink grid and having to clean it ( underneath…yuck).. I keep it in to avoid potential chipping of the sink from dropping heavy pots, casserole dishes etc.
Wondering any of the posters have had success with buffing out cracks with a firebrick. Best to all.