I have both decks on a JD 235 (2003). I only use the 42c for bagging leaves in the fall. As far a mulching, there is no comparison, the 42m gives a very nice (although not always perfect cut). In ten years, I've replace the timing belt once due to age. Just be sure there is no apparent damage or excessive vibration which can be the telltale of something potentially wrong. The deck has been durable and trouble free. Only belts and blade sharpening and lube.

Cigar Several questions. What is zip code for gmother's location? Describe typical winter climate. What size is system you are considering replacing? It is difficult to believe that a 5 ton is correct size if home has reasonable insulation qualities. I have never particularly liked the Heritage 16 (Trane XL16i). Note the relatively poor BTU output in both cooling and heating for system you listed. If money is no object, you might look at Carrier's new Greenspeed HP system. I am not advocating it, just informing you. It has high HSPF for an air source HP. There are three reasons for needing a properly sized heat strip. 1. To temper supply air when HP is in defrost mode 2. To add supplemental heat on cold days where HP by itself can not maintain indoor thermostat setting 3. To provide emergency heat in case of mechanical breakdown of outside condenser. What size is existing heat strip? Here is my general spec sheet for new system. both outside and inside units should be replaced to have a properly matched system. 15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF best matching VS air handler full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron) scroll compressor preferred electronic demand defrost preferred thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature staged backup heat strips new and correctly sized refrigerant lineset 10 yr warranty on parts and compressor you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc. any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed. My personal recommendation is Trane/AmStd, Rudd/Rheem, and Carrier/Bryant. Depending on your location, I would not purchase a new system that did not have electronic demand defrost. Post back. IMO

burger first post brand, mdl, size of HP condenser and air handler. I assume you can switch thermostat to emergency and get some electric strip heat until upstairs system has been diagnosed and properly repaired. the idea that your upstairs system is only producing 60 degree supply heat suggests four possible causes. 1.compressor is not running(don't confuse this possibility with outside condenser fan running) 2.AC is running rather than HP mode 3.loss of refrigerant or incorrect charge 4.thermostat may be faulty any of these reasons will require a tech familiar with HPs. as far as the HP operating in AC mode in the summer and struggling to cool, that's a different story that may be related to size of system, system refrigerant charge, ductwork, insulation, etc. IMO

"The two contractors below came up with a 2.5 size but heat pumps only come in whole sizes. Am I over sizing the unit if I go with the 3 ton heat pump?" The heat pumps you were quoted are 2-stage models. All 2-stage heat pumps come in whole ton sizes. You would have to get a single stage heat pump in order to get the 2.5 ton size. I am in central NJ so my climate is very similar to yours. Did you review the load calculations? Is the 1800 sq. feet all on the second floor below attic space? Given attic poor insulation (R19 or less?), the 2.5 ton may be slightly under sized. In my opinion I don't think a 2-stage 3 ton heat pump is over sized. We would have to look at the data sheet, but most likely the lower stage will be less than 2.5 tons. It is difficult to comment on the price because of the required duct work. It sounds there is a lot of labor involved in the new duct work and attic installation. Contractors don't like to break out line item cost. Getting one price is very common. You have gotten 8 bids, so you compare prices. You did the right thing by rejecting people who don't even go into the attic. The answer you other questions, I think 2-stage equipment is worth the extra money. It is going to do a better job of lowering the humidity in the summer. It should also be quieter when running on the low stage while you are sleeping. I think suspending the air handler from the rafters is the best way to minimize noise. I don't have experience with attic installed equipment, but it seems logical you would cut down the vibration from the ceiling. You want R8 insulated ducts in the attic. The main duct should be metal and all joints should have mastic. The flexible ducts should have no kinks. If it looks bad to your eye then it is probably bad. You are doing the right thing by investing in improved duct work. I like Carrier over Lennox. You also want a 2-stage thermostat. Find out the model number and make sure it is in the quote.