Consumer Reports ranking of A/C and Heat pump reliability
dovetonsils
9 years ago
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bsmith
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Consumer Reports + Miele DW = What the...?
Comments (53)Wow, Mojavean, that's really interesting about the founder of CR and its schism with CU. Or maybe schism isn't the right word, they were perhaps more sequential. Anyway, the reaction to the communist and union threat is really interesting. I, too, chewed on CU a bit in their recent "survey". I have done so in the past, though, and heard nary a thing. I know many, many who have criticized them in this way over the years. I think I even read an interview with the director responding to this sort of criticism a few years back. ("We can't release our findings because that would jeopardize our objectivity"... blah blah blah - nonsense. I suspect they won't release their findings to minimize that which specific companies can complain about, but of I course I don't really know). It really is a crying shame for CU not to morph into more open accountability. I should think the take-home lesson of wikileaks and this whole modern internet era is that more transparency is vital. If it hasn't happened already, sites like GW will leach CU's support as people take stock of their bomb-purchases and find other ways to supplant the "research" provided by CU. Trouble is, the aggregate summation of information provided by CU is unique, and the right, really the only way to provide useful information. I am really valuing GW, but at the end of the day, these are all just individual anecdotes, provided by strangers with varying degrees of reliability and their own often-unacknowledged sets of filters and biases. It's always been something of a transcendental and frankly, political question the degree to which one values anecdotes. But I should think this internet era ought to be pushing at least one forum (e.g., CU) to more thorough and open accountability, not less (which would be the inherent realm of a anecdote-site such as this). But it's always frustrating trying to tell another how to run their business! From salesmen who could actually *make* the sale if only they ever smiled, just once, to mega-testing firms that instill presumed filters onto their analysis without disclosing their makeup. I suppose there might be more hope of tilting at this windmill than at some others, in deference to their inherent or at least stated 'democracy' (I think they give a nod to such theory, do they not?). But I think, truthfully Mojavean, it is a lost cause. CU knows full well their value would be enhanced by open reporting, and they have consciously chosen, long ago, not to do so. They have variously defended the decision over the years, but I am unaware of them ever wavering. I think nothing short of a flat-out full stakeholder's revolt will force any such change of policy. I hope I'm wrong and if you'd like to direct this particular footsoldier, lemme know how. I'll sign whatever you suggest or write an individual letter if you think it worthwhile. Feel free to contact me offlist if you'd like to strategize. :)...See MoreConsumer Reports not high on Bluestar
Comments (276)I'm curious what the new ones look like- the only photos that seem to pop up look like the old single-wire version that I replaced. Haven't used any of the recent ones I bought yet, but they were $40 for 6 vs $20 each (best I can tell for OEM ones). I also have already put crimp spade connectors on the wires to mate up with the ones I replaced the original with. That should make replacing again not a big deal- except for the state of the threaded holes in the bottom of the burners (TBD). I like the pie-shaped top to the igniter b/c I think it's a little more forgiving for placement than the single wire. Our most used burner has become a little twitchy to light, but I think that's expected with 12 years or so of runtime- need to take it apart and probably just replace the igniter. [edit- in case it doesn't jump out, stove was purchased/installed in 2006]...See MoreMy ideas for a house that consumes no energy to heat or cool
Comments (9). You're essentially looking at making a thermal mass that simply swamps out the level of "losses" to the outside world. Thermally 100% correct I'd say . . if it's truly big enough, and can exchange it's heat with the surroundings efficiently enough. No matter HOW efficient the place could be; there will be losses . . . and at a time of year when you want them the least . . winter . . when they are also least available to replace. I'd say s'can the flat roof . . . put enough pitch on it to shed rain . . and . . perhaps more importantly; snow . . like metal roof. The weight can get incredible. Insulate the space between inside roof and the "attic" . . . will help cool in the summer, and avoid icicles in the winter. You are barking up the right tree with regards to surface area vs volume; but I believe that bees have it right: Believe that a hexagon, or septagon, or whatever they have; actually gives the most volume per lineal outside material. May not lend itself to livable space terribly well . . although bees seem to do fine with it . . Running tubing throughout the concrete mass I think would be a good idea . . . just don't pour all at once lest ye collapse forms as the weight / pressures can get quite high as the mass gets larger. Pressurize the tubing during the pour !! lest ye collapse it. As far as pumps / controls etc for circulating fluid; why not use passive thermo-syphon ? ? Only ONE moving part . . . a check valve. No motors / pumps / controls / sensors etc. Heat during the winter; and oodles of heated water during the summer months. Follow the KISS principle: Keep It Simple Stupid . . less crap to go wrong . . . easy to protect against freezing etc . . . Circulate well water through the mass in the summer . . get free cooling ( and likely some condensation ) while pre-heating your domestic hot water. Perhaps some cavities / "tunnels" through the mass . . which could have air blown through them to help exchange along better by virtue of more surface area ? ? ? Make the mass be part of the "architectural" design . . not just put there to serve the main purpose. Incorporate masonry stove etc into it . . as PART of the living space . . . shelving . . cubbyholes . . a small sitting area . . "couch" . . all as part of it ? ? While thinking of cheap AND efficient . . ever look into straw bale construction ? ? ? I've read some about it . . and it is certainly cheap . . and if PROPERLY done ( to exclude water infiltration ) will last a VERY long time. Low tech, cheap, works well. How's 'bout earth-bermed or "underground" construction . . . a few feet down and the temperature doesn't vary nearly so much . . . a much more constant "outside" temperature to your structure ? ? ? Don't forget that building very tight . . . . also means lack of fresh air . . . you'd have to have ERV or such to get that . . . and there are some losses with it. An interesting idea . . . curious what others may say . . and what you end up doing with it . . . . Bob...See MoreConsumer Reports June issue and Duet
Comments (30)When you aimed the exhaust out your window, did you have it blowing through a window screen? If so, that's wrong. It's very difficult for air to blow *through* a screen. Try it again with the screen off the window or the exhaust duct aimed out a door, or simply laying on the floor, whatever, so the air stream has no restriction. Just wondering also ... I've seen cases in which the dryer was shoved too far back against the wall, crushing the flexible vent hose or bending it sharply. By the way, the thermostat is *supposed* to turn off (and then back on) to maintain whatever is the target temperature for the selected cycle. For your reference, below are the temperatures at which the heat shuts off. It cycles back on when the temp drops by 10°F to 15°F. High = 155°F +/- 10°F Medium = 145°F +/- 10°F Low = 125°F +/- 10°F Ex Low = 105°F +/- 5°F Your washer's spin speed does have some effect on drying time, but the new dryer still should be able to dry a load in close to the same time as the old one. Maybe your old dryer ran hotter than the new one? Did you normally use the High temperature setting on it? The starting cycle time is only an estimate. The electronic control recalculates and adjusts the remaining time based on how quickly it senses the clothes are drying, size of the load, what is the target dryness level, etc. If the two damp items were of substantially heavier fabric weight than the rest of the items in the load, it's normal for them to be damp at the end. Your dryer's electronic sensing split the difference between the lighter and heavier items. If your old dryer didn't have an electronic sensor, you may not be accustomed to how it works. Some newer dryers also tend to err toward the side of less-dry for energy saving purposes, so you may need to raise the target dryness setting by one level depending on the mix of fabrics that comprises your normal loads....See MoreGreg1414
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