Heating & cooling high ceiling house
kal2002
17 years ago
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Comments (11)
kal2002
17 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
My ideas for a house that consumes no energy to heat or cool
Comments (9). You're essentially looking at making a thermal mass that simply swamps out the level of "losses" to the outside world. Thermally 100% correct I'd say . . if it's truly big enough, and can exchange it's heat with the surroundings efficiently enough. No matter HOW efficient the place could be; there will be losses . . . and at a time of year when you want them the least . . winter . . when they are also least available to replace. I'd say s'can the flat roof . . . put enough pitch on it to shed rain . . and . . perhaps more importantly; snow . . like metal roof. The weight can get incredible. Insulate the space between inside roof and the "attic" . . . will help cool in the summer, and avoid icicles in the winter. You are barking up the right tree with regards to surface area vs volume; but I believe that bees have it right: Believe that a hexagon, or septagon, or whatever they have; actually gives the most volume per lineal outside material. May not lend itself to livable space terribly well . . although bees seem to do fine with it . . Running tubing throughout the concrete mass I think would be a good idea . . . just don't pour all at once lest ye collapse forms as the weight / pressures can get quite high as the mass gets larger. Pressurize the tubing during the pour !! lest ye collapse it. As far as pumps / controls etc for circulating fluid; why not use passive thermo-syphon ? ? Only ONE moving part . . . a check valve. No motors / pumps / controls / sensors etc. Heat during the winter; and oodles of heated water during the summer months. Follow the KISS principle: Keep It Simple Stupid . . less crap to go wrong . . . easy to protect against freezing etc . . . Circulate well water through the mass in the summer . . get free cooling ( and likely some condensation ) while pre-heating your domestic hot water. Perhaps some cavities / "tunnels" through the mass . . which could have air blown through them to help exchange along better by virtue of more surface area ? ? ? Make the mass be part of the "architectural" design . . not just put there to serve the main purpose. Incorporate masonry stove etc into it . . as PART of the living space . . . shelving . . cubbyholes . . a small sitting area . . "couch" . . all as part of it ? ? While thinking of cheap AND efficient . . ever look into straw bale construction ? ? ? I've read some about it . . and it is certainly cheap . . and if PROPERLY done ( to exclude water infiltration ) will last a VERY long time. Low tech, cheap, works well. How's 'bout earth-bermed or "underground" construction . . . a few feet down and the temperature doesn't vary nearly so much . . . a much more constant "outside" temperature to your structure ? ? ? Don't forget that building very tight . . . . also means lack of fresh air . . . you'd have to have ERV or such to get that . . . and there are some losses with it. An interesting idea . . . curious what others may say . . and what you end up doing with it . . . . Bob...See MoreHeat & Cooling Mobile Home Question
Comments (4)First of all make sure your filter and evaporator coil are clean. Is the kids room further away from the furnace than your bedroom? If so, your problem is probably your home's (and all mobile home's in my opinion) poorly designed duct system. I'll try my best to use laymans terms so please bear with me. When they design these homes they dont leave much room for ductwork. so, they make the duct small enough (usually around 12X4 or 10X3 or so) to fit between the floor joists and make the duct one size along the whole length. The proper way to design a trunk duct would be to use the equal friction method where you start out with a large trunk duct close to the furnace and gradually decrease the duct size after every register (or registers) to keep the pressure consistant. This type of duct system doesnt doesnt allow the air pressure to remain consistent along the whole length of the trunk duct so the registers that are furthest away from the air source (fan/furnace) produce less airflow than the registers that are closest. I've seen this quite a few times so im guessing that this is your problem. One way to tell is if the registers that are closest to the furnace are pretty loud and the ones furthest away are pretty quiet. A quick "fix" would be to shut off the registers that are closest to the furnace and try to force air to the furthest ones. The best way (but not the cheapest) would be to trash the factory duct and install a trunk and branch duct system under the house using the equal friction method or to put a supply plenum under the furnace and install a round duct spider system. If my "quick fix" above seems to help a little i would call someone to quote you a new duct system. hope this helps, Good luck...See MoreNew AC not keeping house cool enough. Expectations too high?
Comments (62)The contractor probably does not want to recalculate the load calculation because he may find a mistake and then you will use it against him. The calculation is probably correct. I am a little skeptical about the duct loss. What he has seems low. I would want an explanation on how that number was generated. There could be an additional 0.5 ton of loss that is missing just in duct losses. I am also concerned that this is the first time he has installed this equipment and in 5 trips he has not been able to solve the problem. When you talk to American Standard, tell them the contractor is having problems getting the equipment to work correctly. Installation issues are not their problem. Let them know you have a load calculation and the unit size is matched to the calculation, but the equipment does not seem to working as per the spec sheet. Tell them it is a new installation and with new duct work. Hopefully they will work with you and send someone to inspect the system....See MoreAir Conditioner can't keep house cool during heat wave in California
Comments (57)The thing about needing coolant (refrigerant) is that's not necessary unless there's a leak in the system. Refrigerant doesn't wear out or get used up such that it must be changed or refilled. A tiny leak that doesn't cause an adverse effect until enough leaks out over a couple/few years is somewhat less of a concern, but it's still a leak that shouldn't be there....See Morevstech
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17 years agolast modified: 9 years agokal2002
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17 years agolast modified: 9 years agokal2002
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