You can use the CounterSeal method with some standardized size stainless sinks. They have to have the template on file. It's not cheap, and you end up with a ring of Corian around your sink attached to the laminate. YOu still have seams around your sink, which is the weak point in laminate. There was a poster on here who had that fail---badly. ANd you're locked into the Corian colors which may or may not match your laminate color well. Done right, the color match looks great. Done badly, it' looks like exactly what it is, a ring of off colored plastic around your sink rim. Although there are some sources that will sell on the net, it's designed to have a trained fabricator install it. It won't be warrantied if you DIY. The Karran process uses solid surface sinks (solid acrylic) in white or bone and the only thing that keeps the assembly watertight is the thin skin of your teeth laminate thickness. You have to have a licensed installer to do this, and it's not an inexpensive choice. Not available DIY that I'm aware of, and it's not warrantied if it is. There still isn't a method to undermount a sink in laminate that is as inexpensive as the laminate itself. It will cost $300-$600 to be done, and must be done by a licensed fabricator to have a warranty. I don't trust any of the methods for longevity and I would not put them in my own house. Gibby's looks great, but I have to point out that it is a vacation house and doesn't receive everyday usage. I'd have to recommend that if one of your goals is to have an undermount sink, you shouldn't make do with questionable half measures in laminate. You should redo your budget to include the acrylic/stone surface that you love, plus the undermount sink---from a reputable fabricator.

Sorry Davridro - I couldn't see this thread there for a while, and I have been busy with other stuff here in AZ.... not diss'in ya Bro - OK?? As far as this whole debate goes - here's the dealeo as far as I'm concerned: The smaller you make the stone around a sink opening (ie; 1" vs 2") the greater you increase the opportunity for fracture - Davidro - you are correct in your argument about the application, etc. The important thing to remember (and I think that you have pointed this out very well) is that the "plane" or "application" of the stone - has to be supported and remain flat without movement or "flex".... Plywood subtops do this very well, but adding steel re-enforcement to the recipe - IMHO - does it even better. I had a friend that actually laminated 3/4" x 3/4" box steel tube to the underside of a 2CM laminated front edge assemblies - so that the steel was not visible because of the front edge lower half covered it - he'd set the assembly directly on top of the cabinets. Sadly, he had to close his doors last year (it's NOT been fun here in PHX), so I do not know what his long term success rate will be - he started doing this process in 2006.... so we'll see. The other "ingredients" that make or break this whole scenario are: 1. stone thinkness - 2CM or 3CM 2. type of sink - stainless, cast iron, plastic, etc 3. size of sink 4. size of cabinet base sink is set in 5. depth of countertops 6. set back of UMS opening from front edge of stone 7. amount of support for sink and countertop from cabinet assembly 8. type of subtop material used (if any) 9. type of rodding used (if any) method of sink attachment and support (type of clips or support assembly used - if any) movement of the home, cabinets and/or countertop assembly (if any) amount of downward pressure or force applied to the sink assembly (gravity, content of sink and weight of garbage disposal and associated plumbing attached to the sink- all pulling down on the sink and the stone) potential for water penetration into the subtop Bottom line here - is that Davidro has some good comments on this thread, and there are multiple scenarios that will play out in determining whether or not an UMS application will hold up - long term hth kevin

"1) Can the rim/flange of said sink bowl rest on the tops of the cabinet's sides, between the front and the back rails? (This would support its sides. The front and back would have to be either strapped in, I imagine, or attached with clips)." You don't want the cabinet sides/blocking to support your sink directly. Cabinet sides cannot push a sink tight to the bottom of your top as a strap system can. I regularly rip cabinet sides and have sink flanges extending past them. When the sink is strapped in place, not clipped, you've replaced the structural support the cabinet side provided with sink. "2) Do I HAVE to get a sink with a footprint that completely fits inside the cabinet's inside space (22.5"), thus reducing the possible dimensions of the actual bowl considerably?" No. You can scoop cabinet sides to allow a sink installation, especially if the sink is strapped in place. It depends on what's adjacent. Drawers? Not so much. Fillers? scoop away. Hercules Universal Sink Harness from BB Industries, or a Sink Strap or two from Regent Stone Products please. Ripped cabinet side top; Sink Straps in place. Sink flange extends past cabinet side.

After getting the sink installed I'm regretting not purchasing a self-trimming apron front sink instead. When the contractors cut the cabinet, it left a small gap around the sink edges (and a few chips too). The contractor says they'll cover it with scribe molding so you won't see it, and hopefully that will resolve the issue. Wonder if other folks here with this sink or similar ones have had the same issue? Video showing the gaps around the sink here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmD8KjGtqRzxjohVhtoxF_BKmAksdQ?e=N315sO