New build kitchen...ducting requiring a 'box' around top of hood?
babs711
12 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (18)
annachosaknj6b
12 years agoci_lantro
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Box Boy crosspost from windows forum- logistics and who builds?
Comments (21)HI Everyone, I wanted to update on my bay window in the eating area. It was installed yesterday and is beautiful, what a difference it makes to have the bumpout and the larger window! My previously planned kitchen expansion has contracted to just this but I am super pleased with it. I found online that Sunrise windows are well regarded and has a "projected frame" window that is made at the factory, so emailed them. They put me in touch with their local contractor. Many emails and two meetings later (I also had a door replaced and a new exterior door placed), the window part was constructed in one day. I asked for foam insulation to be added all around and then covered with Azek to be sure that the window stayed warm. Sunrise only offered this type of bay with the windows going all the way down. My next project is to create a flip up wood shelf that can sit on the seat when closed and act as a back support when opened. Total cost for the window, extra insulation, trimming with Azek,and installation is about $5000 all told and they considered the corbels sufficient support, so no torsion box needed. Some electrical had to be moved down also. The header and window width is unchanged. Absolutely worth it and it's amazing how easy the new windows and doors are to operate. My patio door went from a two handed, full body planted heaving opening effort to single finger opening. The new windows in the bay move with a few fingers. When they are closed up the garden sounds completely disappear, unlike our old windows . Super low air infiltration. Next is the kitchen remodel in the existing space, finally! Before After This post was edited by scrappy25 on Wed, May 14, 14 at 9:33...See MoreThoughts on cabinet placement around hood
Comments (62)Jen, what are the tall skinny cabinets to the left of your ovens? Also, regarding the sideways tall cabinet next to the fridge...I wonder if your original design with base cabinets and an upper cabinet and countertop would give you a natural landing spot for your purse, mail, papers, iPhone charging, etc. Do you have another spot this stuff will go? If you want to store glasses and dishes here maybe that original layout would be more useful for that purpose. In our new layout, I'm hoping to relocate all that daily paper clutter to a nearby butlers pantry area (I do NOT want this stuff on my new island!). We have a similar size kitchen and layout as yours....See MoreSpace required around compact washer/dryer set
Comments (14)Sarah, no worries at all! Believe me, I belabored this myself. You're exactly right. The units could move back in my setup. In my photo above that says "see the hose back there," it's showing the hose not entirely tucked into the space that is designed for it. So Miele has correct dimensions, and that drawing is exactly as they are built. The thing is that I put the box with plumbing on the right (as you're looking at the doors of the machines,) and I believe it's a shorter route to put them on the left. See the Miele drawing of the back of the machine and that will make more sense. I was going to ask you anyway, since you're space is tight but you can move a wall, where do you want the shutoff to be? I remember you said you really needed a plumber/contractor to work it all out, so I wonder if you have found one. Truth be told, you'll be able to work it all out in terms of the dimensions, but knowing where your existing electrical and water supply/drain are will be necessary. I think I told you before that I was sold on the Miele because there's no issue for access when maintaining the machines. Whirlpool evidently had the brilliant idea to place the lint clean-out in the back for their HP dryer, which means paying a tech at least 2X per year to pull the thing out just to clean it. Anyway... Also remember you're referencing in your first image the requirements for putting them in a closet. If you're not doing that, don't worry. And if you need more photos of the setup I have, please don't hesitate to ask. As I hear the laundry humming now, I think about all the questions I had before making the leap. It was a lot of work, and certainly expense too, but it's all worth it, and I hope it will be for you as well :-) p.s. Do you have a local dealer? That might help your questions. I asked mine to stop by while we were in construction, which he gladly did. In retrospect, I should have asked earlier. Those are the people who will be installing and servicing (hopefully not) those machines. And yes they're pricey....you do get some extra help for that. Good luck and keep me posted....See MoreHood dilemma: Box it in or not? (& which hood works best for us?)
Comments (31)@ HU-291315178 What makes this any less of a fire hazard? The edges of that hood are wood and it is probably about 30" above the stove. Not sure about the lesson you want me to LEARN , but there was nothing wrong with the hood that was done - blower and liner about 30" above the stove - no different than this picture ( just shallower ) and 1000 others I can find online. Its not 27" deep but neither are the vast majority of hoods designed by cabinet companies or installed in todays market for the typical 30 " range or maybe a 36" cooktop - we are not talking about larger ranges with an indoor grill or griddle. I my area there is no code requiring you to have any sort of exhaust fan at all in the kitchen ( with the exception of those powerful stoves ) . It is an assumed requirement. Of course we all know it is better to have than not. Obviously you seem to know so much better, so I will graciously bow out of this thread and comment no longer. Have a great day...See Morebabs711
12 years agoannachosaknj6b
12 years agoannachosaknj6b
12 years agoavesmor
12 years agoUser
12 years agobabs711
12 years agobmorepanic
12 years agoci_lantro
12 years agobabs711
12 years agoannachosaknj6b
12 years agodash3108
12 years agobmorepanic
12 years agobabs711
12 years agoannachosaknj6b
12 years agobabs711
12 years ago
Related Stories
CONTRACTOR TIPSBuilding Permits: When a Permit Is Required and When It's Not
In this article, the first in a series exploring permit processes and requirements, learn why and when you might need one
Full StoryCONTRACTOR TIPSBuilding Permits: 10 Critical Code Requirements for Every Project
In Part 3 of our series examining the building permit process, we highlight 10 code requirements you should never ignore
Full StoryENTRYWAYSHow to Make the Most of Your Entry (No Coat Closet Required)
A well-designed foyer offers storage, seating and other features to help you get out the door on time and looking good
Full StoryURBAN GARDENS9 Creative Ways With Plants, No Yard Required
See how designers and homeowners cleverly incorporate container gardens into their home designs
Full StoryARCHITECTUREHouzz Tour: A Vintage Home Wrapped Up in a Box
A work-at-home couple completes an eye-catching contemporary renovation that builds on an Arts and Crafts home
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNWhat to Know When Choosing a Range Hood
Find out the types of kitchen range hoods available and the options for customized units
Full StoryKITCHEN APPLIANCESThe Many Ways to Get Creative With Kitchen Hoods
Distinctive hood designs — in reclaimed barn wood, zinc, copper and more — are transforming the look of kitchens
Full StoryCONTRACTOR TIPSYour Complete Guide to Building Permits
Learn about permit requirements, the submittal process, final inspection and more
Full StoryCONTRACTOR TIPSBuilding Permits: The Final Inspection
In the last of our 6-part series on the building permit process, we review the final inspection and typical requirements for approval
Full StoryWOODThe Power of Plywood All Around the House
Of course you've heard of it, but you might not know all the uses and benefits of this workhorse building material
Full Story
babs711Original Author