Find the "House circuit breaker" for that oven and keep it turned off unless you are using the microwave or the wall oven. One hopes that the warming drawer has its own electrical circuit---that would be the best, but if it doesn't, find out what else "Quits" when you flip off the circuit breaker and hopefully it won't be anything you can't live without. When you need whatever is on that same circuit breaker just flip it back on. Since The warming drawer has a knob "instead of touch controls" more than likely the knob is a simple on/off/temp comtrol so more than likely "resetting the circuit breaker" won't fix the on/off problem,(but try it anyway), more than likely unless you are very "handy" (electrically speaking), You will need a service call to fix it. Good luck with it! Gary

Good morning. I have no experience with A/C so all help much appreciated. Last week we had a power cut in the middle of the night. Since then I noticed a few issues with the A/C. Firstly the upstairs unit wouldn't power on without me going in to the attic and turning the power switch up there, the thermostat wouldn't control it. Then it worked fine for a few days. Last night it started going through short cycles, coming on for twenty seconds and going off repeatedly. Tonight I came home from work and it's running, thermostat won't shut it off. It's blowing cold air constantly..... I've taken the thermostat off to change batteries and a/c kept running and I still can't control it with new batteries in the Tstat. I can hear thermostat turning on and Off but fan is constant. The downstairs unit is working no problem (knock on wood) and we didn't have any other electrical problems after power outage / surge.... Thanks a lot!

jimcolonial is correct. the furnace not shutting off doesn't usually require a new furnace. If the tech is any good he should be able to narrow it down fairly quickly. There are a coulpe of things that control your furnace. One is your t-stat. It is just a switch. If you diconnect a wire from the t-stat and the furnace still runs that eliminates that part. Go to the control at the boiler that it's hooked up to and take the t-stat wire off and if the boiler shuts down you could possibly have a short in you t-stat wire. If it still doesn't shut down chances are it's in your primary control. It sounds like a lot but it is pretty simple and doesn't take very long.

The black ball is is the compressor and too hot to touch isn't unexpected. Most small freezers are not frostless so if you fail to defrost and alow ice to coat inside coil that will cause what you described. The unit isn't desighned to operate at ambient temps above 85F or in strong sunlight without running non-stop. Air must have free path on all sides and top. Leave 6"+ on sides and 1'+ above top. Nothing stored on top. There are a few things you can do before attempting repair or buying a new freezer. Not worth a servive call but you might get a discount by dropping at repair shop. Set the t-stat to the warmest ( equates to 20f-25f ) and place a thermometer inside. If it doesn't cycle within 48 hours and temp is lower than 10f,problem is likly the t-stat. If it fails to cycle and temp is above 20f,do below tests. Close door on a business card at a few places and it should slightly resist pulling out. If card pulls without resistance,the seal or door is misalighned or bent. Let us know what you found after looking at these.