newbie (long time lurker) with question
15 years ago
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- 15 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
- 15 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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Long time Lurker-Now I really need advise
Comments (5)I have a 36 inch hood over a 36 inch range and haven't ever had a problem. I think it depends on the way you cook, in part. For example, we grill on the barbecue outside and we don't do "blackened" anything. But we do stir fry. I don't agree that the hood MUST be wider than the cooktop. It's nice if you can do it, but not an absolute requirement. The height of the hood above the countertop is a function of each individual vent. If you already have the vent hood, look at the specs. If you lost them, look at the specs on line. I put mine 34" above; my husband is 5'11" and he is happy with the height. I think you'd be fine with 32" or 33" if the tallest member of your family is 5'8". I think our local code has a maximum of 36", but your particular ventilation hood may say no more than 30". Still, I would personally still take the risk of a small decrease in performance and fudge a couple of inches higher than 30". We went to kitchen design stores and measured the heights of the hoods there to see what height felt good. One thing than apparently helps the draw of the vent is if you start it up before you actually start cooking. I don't really understand your light rail issue. I guess it is because my molding on the bottom of my cabinets is flush with the cabinet edges, so it doesn't intrude into the range space. The specs to your range should specify what the clearances need to be....See MoreLong time lurker...with pics of our finished kitchen.
Comments (83)Ok, I'll try to hit the questions I am seeing here. - Regarding door/drawer spacing for inset doors/drawers: I took the finished door/drawer opening on the cabinet and made sure to allow for an 1/8" gap when cutting doors and drawer fronts to fit in the opening. One of the learning curves for me building cabinets was understanding how even a 1/16" difference is visible. This was a difficult concept to grasp for someone who is used to doing rough framing (building decks and framing walls) where being 1/4" off is no big thing. Also, it was very important to make sure everything was perfectly square. Keeping things square and careful measurement meant everything fit when it was time for assembly. Minuscule adjustments were made with a hand planer. - Attaching drawer fronts was a little tedious. I wound up tipping the cabinet on it's back, and simply laid the drawer front in the opening (on the drawer box.) Once I got it positioned, it got clamped and screwed in with two temporary screws from inside the drawer. When it was time for final install after paint, I simply removed the temporary screws, drilled proper counter sunk holes, added some wood glue and the screwed them in from the inside. Drawer pulls were also installed from the inside which also provided more attaching points. I highly doubt these drawer fronts will ever come loose. - Installing doors and gapping them was pretty similar to the drawer fronts. One trick that I figured was using a finish nail like a shim; their diameter was about the exact gap I was looking for. I'd place them loose between the door and cabinet, position the door (which moved easily along the nails like rollers), clamped the door and screwed them to the hinges. I used an old school hinge to keep the traditional look but they were slightly adjustable for final install. - Regarding the lower cabinet doors being used as a drawer front and how I attached them: This was done just like the drawer fronts, except I simply used more screws to attach them from the inside. This, plus sufficient wood glue, held them in place just fine. Also, keep in mind, the drawer boxes themselves are hard maple....nice and secure for the screws to hold to. The drawer slides are also effortless so there really is no torque on the fronts when pulling them open. I was concerned about this, but even fully loaded, they open effortlessly and my concerns are assuaged. I'm confident they won't come apart. And thanks again for all of the kind words, comments and questions....See Morelong time lurker...
Comments (3)Our 1986 house had existing hardwoods throughout most of the downstairs. 2 years ago, we pulled up carpet in the FR and had oak hardwoods installed there too. At that time, we also had the Kitchen/BR hardwoods refinished as it's an open floorplan to the FR. We have an active Beagle and two 6 1/2 year old boys. Here's what's happened - the polyurethane sheen has dulled. Looks more like the DR/Hall/LR that weren't refinished now. The dogs claws have left scratches in some areas of the floor even though I have her claws clipped and ground with the dremel tool thingy. I have two small but noticeable dents in the flooring in the kitchen (contractor dropped a hammer and I dropped a casserole dish). IMO, the floors don't look bad with the wear, but they no longer look "new". The new hardwoods and refinished floors more closely match the finish in the rooms that we didn't touch....See MoreLong time lurker, first time poster, clematis newbie -- some questions
Comments (3)Hello.. ok, I know I'm a long way away here, and expect others more local to you will be along shortly to advise, but just thought you might like to see a couple photos of my clematis... I have 'Etoile Violette' growing with 'Minuet'... I don't have Jackmanii... to be honest, I think the flowers on that one are too similar in colour to 'Etoile Violette' to grow next to each other... I prefer a contrast... ..also, over here, and I would expect this would be the same for you, my 'EV' has a spread of about 10-12 foot width, maybe more when established after a couple seasons and fully grown, as does 'Minuet'... I have my plants spaced 6 foot apart with other plants in between... I wouldn't want them any closer as they are trained along my fence and merge and mingle with each other that way... ...when newly planted in the fall, I didn't bother putting up wire support until the Spring of the following season because these Clematis are usually cut right down before winter... to regrow afresh next Spring... ..I have wires going along my fence for them to cling to... I hope this assists you in some way......See More- 15 years agolast modified: 11 years ago
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