Hi, I recently installed a heat pump on my house which currently has a gas furnace also. I have the honeywell focus pro wireless thermostat kit with the outdoor sensor and all. You need to set the droop-control to maybe 2 degrees or something small. The heat pump will take way too long to bring the house from 62 to 67. The droop control basically says if the temperature difference in the house is more than the number of degrees you set, it uses auxilary heat. You can also lockout the droop control on my thermostat. That means if its more than 2 degrees difference in the house but the outdoor temp is above 45, then it won't engage the auxilary heat. 2 degrees is what I use for droop control because the heat pump isn't so great at bringing up temperature, but it does a good job at maintaining temperature in the house. I have the auxilary lockout at 45. At 45 and above the heat loss isn't so bad on my house, also the heat pump puts out more heat. I can't imagine the house losing more than 4 degrees on a day like that anyway. I have my switchover also at 30. To be honest, if I could do the switchover at 32 I would. But my thermostat has switchover's in 5 degree increments. The heat pump still seems to do ok even at 35. But once it hits 33 or 32, it seems like the heat cools down. On my heat pump there is also a setting on how many hours to let it run before it hits the target temperature. I have it setup for 1 hour. So if the heatpump can't bring up the temperature in the house, it switches to auxilary. You can disable this feature and have it run endlessly to bring temperature back up if you like. I would do this maybe if gas were to get real expensive again. Right now its cheap. I noticed, when it turns 30 degrees sometimes the gas still runs. Maybe after a while it switches to heat pump. I guess the thermostat doesn't just instantly switch from heat pump to auxiliary or vice-versa instantly when the temperature for the switch is hit. You would think it would be it doesn't on mine either. You may just want to switch your switchover point to 35. Go Duel FUEL!!!! Hope this helps.

yes slowing the speed will most certainly affect the whole house cooling and heating. But it may be an easier and less costly option to try first before going to the mess and expense of adding in retrofit dampers. If you haven't done so already, see if some of your individual room vents can be closed off somewhat. Closing them on the lower level may help force more cooling upstairs. Is there a problem with the heating being uneven, or just when cooling? If it is really only with the cooling, then the solar heat gain from upstairs windows and skylights is probably what is the source of the problem. Additional window coverings can make a difference to reduce solar gain, especially on east/west glass.

Your electric rates are extremely high. Guessing you are in the upper Northeast. I pay 15 cents per kw-hr in Maryland, no tiered rates. Compare the cost of 1 million btu's of heat for heat pump vs oil furnace. Oil furnace w/oil at $3 per gallon, 80% efficient furnace: (1,000,000 / 139,000 btu per gallon) x $3 / .8 = $26.98 Heat pump with electricity at $.22 kw-hr, C.O.P. = 3.25 at 40F ambient: (1,000,000 / 3414 btu per kw) x $.22 / 3.25 = $19.82 The heat pump is 26% cheaper for the same 1 million btu's if you pay $3 gallon for oil and your oil furnace is 80% efficient. Insert your actual oil price and furnace efficiency for a more accurate cost comparison. As ambient temps rise from the 40F example, the C.O.P. (Coefficient of Performance) of the heat pump rises, and it is even cheaper to operate. The heat pump can indeed be used with an old oil furnace, they just can't run at the same time (furnace temps are too high). Same goes with a heat pump and gas furnace. The only time the furnace will run along with the heat pump is when the pump is in a defrost cycle. The furnace will run to temper the cold air from the indoor coil, while the outdoor coil gets hot refrigerant to defrost it. The VisionPro 8000 Series t-stat will run the heat pump as primary heat, then if the heat pump can't keep up with the indoor setpoint, it will turn the heat pump off and run the oil furnace to setpoint. You can also determine the switchover temp with the VisionPro if you have an outdoor temp probe for the t-stat. The contractor has to be comfortable with the heat pump install with an oil furnace. Maybe he doesn't do too many pumps in your area. Good luck.

"The two contractors below came up with a 2.5 size but heat pumps only come in whole sizes. Am I over sizing the unit if I go with the 3 ton heat pump?" The heat pumps you were quoted are 2-stage models. All 2-stage heat pumps come in whole ton sizes. You would have to get a single stage heat pump in order to get the 2.5 ton size. I am in central NJ so my climate is very similar to yours. Did you review the load calculations? Is the 1800 sq. feet all on the second floor below attic space? Given attic poor insulation (R19 or less?), the 2.5 ton may be slightly under sized. In my opinion I don't think a 2-stage 3 ton heat pump is over sized. We would have to look at the data sheet, but most likely the lower stage will be less than 2.5 tons. It is difficult to comment on the price because of the required duct work. It sounds there is a lot of labor involved in the new duct work and attic installation. Contractors don't like to break out line item cost. Getting one price is very common. You have gotten 8 bids, so you compare prices. You did the right thing by rejecting people who don't even go into the attic. The answer you other questions, I think 2-stage equipment is worth the extra money. It is going to do a better job of lowering the humidity in the summer. It should also be quieter when running on the low stage while you are sleeping. I think suspending the air handler from the rafters is the best way to minimize noise. I don't have experience with attic installed equipment, but it seems logical you would cut down the vibration from the ceiling. You want R8 insulated ducts in the attic. The main duct should be metal and all joints should have mastic. The flexible ducts should have no kinks. If it looks bad to your eye then it is probably bad. You are doing the right thing by investing in improved duct work. I like Carrier over Lennox. You also want a 2-stage thermostat. Find out the model number and make sure it is in the quote.