To know what manual you need, we need to have some idea of what engine the mower has on it. Below are some pointers on identifying LB engines from one of my previous posts. Assuming you are talking 2 cycle LB engines, If it has 3 mounting holes and sits flat on the muffler plate it is a "C" or "D". If it does and the recoil pulls sideways, it is a "C", IF the recoil pulls straight up with 2 fingers it is a "D" then if it has points it is a D400 if it has CDI it is a D600. IF when you look at the carb side the engine looks like it is standing up off the muffler plate on 2 spraddled legs like a Sumo Wrestler it is an "F" or a "V" then if the engine cooling fins are round like the cylinder it is an "F", if the cylinder cooling fins form a square it is a "V". Muffler out the side an "E" or DuraForce. you may want to add in the "D" part, if there is just a single re-enforcing web in the transition between the cooling fins of the cylinder and the cooling fins of the head, it is a "C" or "D400". IF the web forms a capital H, it is a D600, "H" for high compression. While it will interchange with the cylinder jugs of D400 and late "C"s, do not do it as the flywheel cooling fins can not handle it. I found out the hard way. On the other hand, a D400 cylinder jug will go on a D600 OK, just loose some power. Walt Conner

Thanks, baldloonie! I have another question for you if you have the time. I'm thinking about replacing my air conditioner. I've gotten a couple of bids for units that use R410a. Both dealers said I'd need to replace the copper refrigeration pipes since my old unit uses R22. One wants to put the new pipe on the outside of the house and cover it with a "gutter." The other dealer said he could pull out the old pipe from inside the walls and replace it with new. The pipes are in a fairly straight line, but they do go up 3 stories. Will the inside-the-wall idea work? Or am I better off going with the outside pipe?

Not much you can do to prevent a leak in the indoor coil except reduce the amount of corrosives in the home. A lot of fumes from cleaners such as chlorox and ammonia may lead to premature corrosion on coils. I noticed years ago that the use of hair sprays and such during the winter would seem to accelerate rusting of the heat exchangers in some homes with standing pilot furnaces. Using chlorox in some drains is a no-no and will cause rapid rusting/corrosion. Vinegar is milder and less damaging in my opinion. Never add any acidic chemical directly into the pan of the coil. There's quite a list of things checked during a "tuneup", which is an unusual name for it. A lot of the checking is visual- looking for signs of corroded connections, burnt or wires getting overheated, mold in the plenum or duct (system not cooling properly), insulation on the refrigerant lines and drains, rusted pans, leaky ducts, vent pipes clear and installed correctly, drain is clean and clear, blowers and coils (and it's pan) clean, the outdoor coil (condensor) clean, motors oiled, freon psi normal per the proper charging method for that system, air split within range, thermostat accurate, return sealed, electrical breakers and wires the proper size and aren't running too warm, no buildup of leaves in the outdoor unit, no distributor tubes touching which can rub together and cause a future leak or wires rubbing and getting ready to wear thru and cause a short. A quick inspection of the ducting, mainly at the plenum is a good idea. If molds are present at the plenum, it is usually a sign that the system is not operating properly (low on freon, low air split ect.) and throwing off moisture instead of removing it. If this persists, mold will develope throughout the ducting and all the way to the registers. The house will feel damp or warm even at comfort temperatures of 75-77 degrees. A check of the humidity and wet bulb temps if the system has been operating normally helps evaluate possible problems. There's actually more and this seems like a whole day project, but actually an experienced tech does these visual inspections in a short time. Once any corrections are made (if any) the same tech should be the one to come back every year, as he knows your system. I wash every outdoor coil, regardless if it looks clean or not, because I have been suprised before from the ones that look clean but are not. Of course all of the controls should be checked, and any visual signs of oil on the freon lines or fittings checked to see if there is a leak and repaired. The proccesses for checking heat pumps, cooling only and gas furnaces are a little different, but at the same time similar. If you have a gas furnace, I always give it a quick look for anything that is unsafe with it or anything applicable to it's proper and safe operation and advise the customer of any corrections needed or to have it looked at before winter use. Some people think they don't get their monies worth when the tech isn't there for a long time, but a well installed and maintained system doesn't take as long to check over as compared to a system that has been neglected or installed poorly. Prices are quite different in all areas and range from $50.00 to as much as $170.00. It's best to stay away (in my experience) from the $19.95 specials- no company can survive with that price and must sell something to make up the difference. Phew! I feel like I just wrote a book! :)

i have a tri-level with basement ... that a quad level ... if there is such a term ... cold air falls ... if its sent upstairs ... it will fall... until it hits the lowest level .. in my case.. the basement ends up 65 ... and the top floor... whatever i set the temp to ... i spend a lot of time with the FAN ONLY running.. i do not have two zones ... in the alternative.. a door on the higher level.. will trap and maintain the conditioned air upstairs ... [now this will be a decorating conundrum] my point being... who says its not working ... perhaps its just that the cold air isnt staying up there... and the hot air from the lower level is constantly going up there.. thats why the lower unit doesnt run as much ... try temporarily hanging a bed sheet across the stairway .. or whatever.. to trap the cool air up there.. and see if that makes a difference ... [to keep the basement... from going total arctic... i use an adjustable twist shower curtain rod with a heavy floor length drape as a air dam ...] if it does.. and the system then runs to specs.. the the problem is not the A/C ... its gravity ... good luck with that.. lol .. ken ps: in winter.. its just as bad .. the upstairs is 90.. with all the rising heat ... and the basement.. again.. is 65 ... crikey ... more running of the fan to even temps thru the spaces ... because warm heated air.. wont stay DOWN in the basement