You have to clarify for us whether you want a humidifier installed at your furnace (called a "whole house humidifier" or an "in duct humidifier"), or whether you want a portable "console" humidifier which you can carry from room to room, and which you will have to refill with water. I myself have an Aprilaire in-duct humidifier - absolutely love it (I used to have a portable console humidifier--never again--a PITA, although they do work). But for an in-duct version, you do need to have an incoming water and water drainage at the furnace area. The portable ones are inexpensive--depending on size, approx. $50-100. But they do need to be refilled, they do gurgle, bubble and hum, and some types get a residue that needs to be cleaned very often. If you get a portable one, try to get one with the biggest water tanks manageable--otherwise you'll be refilling every 12 hours or less. Check out the Consumer Reports article which describes different types of humidifiers. Also, a better forum to pose your question is the Gardenweb's Heating & A/C Forum.

As with any humidifier, be willing to do the necessary maintenance to keep them reliably working. With bypass humidifiers, you should plan to replace the water pad once a year or so depending on your water quality. With steam humidifiers, quarterly or biyearly cleaning may be required as mineral buildup does cause issues (dependent on a home's water quality). I've been happy with a simple bypass humidifier. Steam humidifiers are nice, but they don't eliminate the need for maintenance. In a sense, they require more maintenance to work properly. Since you currently have a bypass type, what issues are you experiencing? Average winter home RH%? I assume the pad has been recently replaced, as that will improve your evaporation capacity. Lots of people expect their humidifiers to do more than they really can in "solving" humidity problems. The need for humidification arises from poor air sealing/excess dry air infiltration into the home. Humidifiers help, but if your humidity is so uncomfortably low then you might look at other avenues beyond a more expensive humidifier. This post was edited by ryanhughes on Wed, Feb 27, 13 at 10:18

Kristy, Several questions; What is the make and model of the humidifier?, What is the make and model of the Thermostat? What is the age of the house? Is your house sealed properly to retain the humidity? Is the humidifer media wet when calling for humidification? Do you have an HRV or ERV? A contractor typically has to guaranty his work for one full year, What does your contract say? You can file a complaint with your State Attorney General and the Better Business Bureau to help negotiations with the contractor along. If the contractor misrepresented, his licensure may be at risk. If you have a bypass type humidifier, the damper in the bypass may be restricting the airflow thru the unit. The water valve could be partially closed. The existing thermostat may be able to monitor humidity, but may not be able to control the humidifier. Were the wires connected correctly to the existing thermostat? A humidifer is only energized when there is airflow in the ductwork. There is a sail switch or air pressure differential switch that senses flow in the duct, then energizes the humidifier. If the humidty control is calling for humidification, the water valve will open and wet the media in the humidifier. Water may trickle down the drain line from the humidifier. Of course if the house does not have vapor tight seals on the doors and windows, a proper vapor barrier in the walls, all drafts sealed tight, insulating gaskets on the exterior wall switches & outlets, HRV or ERV set on minimum ventilation rate - Unless all the above are addressed, you may not be able to retain the humidity in your home. At 30% humidty you will get static electricity and it feels uncomfortable. At 40%, this is a typical minimum comfort level and no static electricity. 40% - 45% relative humidity is reasonable. Higher humidity levels are not recommended. Hope this helps! Dan Martyn

IMO if you go with plain old stainless they will work together and honestly the handles are just fine as they are . The fridge should be counter depth .I like a separate water dispenser on my counter by the sink connected to water filter either under the sink or in the basement . I do love an ice maker but I don’t care if it is in the door .Please make sure that fridge placement will allow the doors to open fullyLooking at the 3D what is that thing beside the stove?