Thanks for the replies tigerdunes. • The insulation is average to good. There is about seven inches of fiberglass batt in the attic and all obvious thermal chimneys have been insulated (i.e.insulation over lighting cans, etc). We have insulation in the walls, but it would be that typical to 1960s and fair at best. We are considering adding another twelve inches of fiberglass batt to the attic but must address certain existing storage complexities. • Of the finished basement, 800sf is below grade and 400sf is at grade (400sf dedicated to a lower level garage is at grade but not included in the figures). • Electric (NStar) is $0.162/KWh unit cost (delivery and generation costs; fixed costs not included). Gas (National Grid) is $1.3463/Therm unit cost (transmission, distribution and supply costs; fixed costs not included). • The current furnace is and new furnace will be located next to the internal chimney in the front-center of the house, primarily because of front-center existing duct work but also for space considerations. • The venting of a high efficiency condensing unit would be somewhat problematic and aesthetically unappealing. If we went with a high efficiency furnace, then we would also like to install a high efficiency gas hot water heater, because it seems counterproductive to install a smaller flue liner for the existing gas fired hot water heater. Due to setback requirements and snow requirements, there may be a very tight area in proximity to the furnace where two exhausts and one intake could be installed; that area is close to the front door and would be unappealing to my wife and would require some additional carpentry work. I don't believe we have a straight shot up the existing flue because of the main floor fireplace, but I have yet to check. • We are unsure whether or not the existing furnace is short-cycling (i.e. shutting itself down for protection reasons). The cycles are certainly short, but I would guess not, only because we do reach thermostat set temperatures, although it wouldn't be a big surprise. • We have not received the Manual J; we have only been told the results from a whole house standpoint. We are requiring the receipt of the load calculations prior to installation but after a vendor has been picked. • The ductwork has been examined by the dealers. We have one large single return for the main level living zone, one large single return for the lower level zone, and a small return in each bedroom in the main level bedrooms zone; the returns are coupled as a common return prior to the furnace. The zoning, ductwork and returns are very good for the 1960s, but uninsulated and based on five inch supplies; so, the system would be undersized for today, I believe. All ducts are internal to the house, although some run through the garage; all ducts are enclosed and finished, other than those in proximity to the furnace. No modifications will be performed to the ductwork, other than any transition needed to the new furnace. • There is seven inches of fiberglass batt between the eight inch ceiling joists (R20). • The zoning control board will control the HVAC system. The new thermostats are dumb, although nicely programable and aesthetic (Aube/Honeywell TH141). In addition to a common (C), the thermostats accept 24V (Rh), heating (W), 24V (Rc), cooling (Y), and fan (G). The new thermostats do not have any second stage inputs or reversing valve input; we have five wires at our existing thermostats; the new thermostats can be battery powered. • The dealers are familiar with zoning, and with either a dumb-simple zoning control board for heating and air conditioning or a smart acculink system; they are less familiar with the combination of smart zoning control board and dumb thermostats or a dumb-sophisticated zoning control board and dumb thermostats. I am personally unimpressed with the smart thermostat systems; to much unnecessary/unused information; to expensive; to large and prominent. What are your thoughts? • The job is simple, although the air conditioning installation would be new but typical. It seems that I should have about $2500-$3000 in air condition installation cost and about $2500 in furnace installation cost and about $1000 in miscellaneous cost (including the $150 zone control board and the media filter), for $1600 in air conditioning equipment cost (2.5 Ton, 15 SEER) and $1800 in furnace cost (80K Btu, 80 AFUE). That would be $6000 to $6500 total cost. What is your experience for pricing of such a system?

To be honest I have no idea what the rates are or how to make sense of this. I looked online at Dominion Powers' website and saw the following First 800 kWh Over 800 kWh @ 2.258â per kWh @ 1.285â per kWh B. Electricity Supply (ES) Service Charges Paragraph II.B. is not applicable to Customers receiving Electricity Supply Service from a Competitive Service Provider. 1. Generation kWh Charge a. Billing Months of June ��" September First 800 ES kWh @ Over 800 ES kWh @ b. Billing Months of October ��" May First 800 ES kWh @ Over 800 ES kWh @ 3.795â per kWh 5.773â per kWh 3.795â per kWh 2.927â per kWh Washington Gas RATE FOR MONTHLY CONSUMPTION System Charge (Per customer) $11.25 All Billing Months Distribution Charge (Per therm) All gas used during the billing month: First 25 therms Next 100 therms Over 125 therms PURCHASED GAS CHARGE 47.95â 30.63â 25.79â The gas meter is about 8 feet from where it will go into the home and probably another 4 feet to the HVAC. The vent will go out to the exterior of the home. I do not believe there are dampers The home is about 3400 total sq ft, a raised rambler with only two levels both of which have level walk outs. But the back wall of the bottom level is about 5 feet under ground.

Ham I always like to congratulate homeowners who make the effort to perform a load calc. It is good information especially if you have a load calc to compare against the dealer. A couple of things. Trane/AmStd 803 stat will help you on humidity control in AC cooling. If humidity is not a concern for your climate, then forget about it and go for a quality stat like the 802 model or same HW VP 8320. Honeywell makes Trane stats, some are just rebranded, the high end mdls are proprietary. I still would stick with the 3 ton AC condenser. Here is the sticky part though. You must have a three ton rated blower in your furnace for AC cooling. This is problematic because it is difficult to find a small BTU furnace with a 3 ton blower. I am not surprised at your load calc for heating. I did a little research this morning and found a quality Rheem furnace with a 41 KBTU output and a three ton blower. It is a comparable model to the AmStd as it has the high eff x-13 blower. I am providing a link for your review. Still think the AmStd quoted would be fine. Certainly it is better than what you have and will save in operating costs. What have dealers said about new lineset? I do encourage you to consider a whole house pleated filter media cabinet. As long as you have good accessibility, changeout is easy and these filters last up to one year before filter needs replacing. I have Trane's Prerfect FIt media filter. IMO Here is a link that might be useful: Rheem Furnace

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