Flooring books may or may not help... try also the general purpose home books (the Big Orange Box has one called "Home Improvement 1-2-3", for example. It isn't very good for the subfloor part of this task, but has okay information about the plumbing and finish floor side of things.) If you don't already own one like this, I'd suggest you get one for everything else you might want to do around the house. There's no perfect category of trade for this job. Part of the complication is that plumbing usually requires a license, so you'd be taking a bit of a chance to have an unlicensed individual working on the plumbing. If you go to a plumbing company, they might have carpenters that they use, but it'll cost a little more for the coordination they have to do. If you approach a general contractor, they'll have the carpenter and connections to plumbers, but they might also view this as a small job and upcharge you for the bother. A handyman without a license to do plumbing would probably do an okay job, but there's a possibility that they'd botch it. If it was me, I'd try and find a combination licensed plumber/ handyman. You'll pay a little more for the plumbing ticket, but it may help you sleep better at night. My gut tells me that this would come in under $2000, but there are too many unknowns to even call that a guess. (And double that if you live somewhere really expensive, like California or NYC.) Get a couple of people out for a quote. Ask for proof of liability insurance and call their insurance company to see that they're currently covered. To drag you back to the DIY side of things, if you feel competent and safe with a circular saw and a drill, and own basic plumbing stuff, then I think you can do this. Double that vote of confidence if you have another bathroom in the house to use while this one's being wrecked.

Thanks for the link lots of good info there, but the slab needs to be dry of course. I personally do not like untreated wood to touch concrete, but to each their own. You could say the glue does not allow the wood to touch the concrete directly though. :) I always worry about mold/rot with a concrete wood junction and with wood floors there is the additional problem of expansion and buckling with moisture. Chapter 5 B. 3. If a slab tests too high in vapor emission to glue a floor down, consider using a vapor retarder type product, installing a vapor retarder and a plywood sub-floor or using an alternative installation method

They will say that it is a site related issue - that is what they are saying - "CLIMATE" - which they may claim they have no control over, only the homeowner is responsible for that. Wood has predictable behavior. They should, since they are professional installers, have all of the documentation regarding the ambient air conditions before and during installation as well as the rh/calcium chloride test results (whichever one they performed and you paid for - hopefully) and ph of the concrete - most professionals include that documentation or report with the final invoice to the end user and kept as long as the floor is under the manufacturer's warranty. Technically, if you wrote 2 checks, it is your responsibility to make sure that was done.

There was zero dust in my house after undercutting my fireplace brick and grinding the slab. The installer had two gigantic hepa vacuums attached to each other and to his grinder. I was home during the install and didn't see any dust flying around at all, and there was none left when it was all over either. My slab looked to be in incredible condition compared to most that I've seen and it still needed a good deal of prep work. The installer went over every inch of it with a straight edge and marked all the high and low spots and there were some in every room. All of those areas were addressed before installing the wood. Additionally, the entire floor was roughed up with a grinder before any work started. If your installers showed up at your house and started gluing down wood the first day without checking everything first, that's a problem. From your manufacture's website for glue down: All Concrete sub-floors must be dry, smooth (level with 3/16” in a 10 foot Radius – 1/8” in 6”) and free of structural defects. Hand scrape or sand with a 20 grit #3-1/2 open face paper to remove loose, flaky concrete. Grind high spots in concrete and fill low spots with a Portland based leveling compound (min. 3,000 psi).