Solid wood floor glued down on concrete: hollow spots
Lu Yan
7 years ago
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Lu Yan
7 years agojellytoast
7 years agoRelated Discussions
3/4' Solid Hardwood Glue down over concrete
Comments (4)Echo is right. Especially with a dense species this is a crap shoot. And the comment about the slab being dry only applies if you have a good moisture barrier under your slab. What I mean by that is if you take concrete readings and determine your slab is dry that only means it is dry at that time if you don't have a plastic barrier beneath. I've seen a lot of concrete contractors cutting corners and not using it in different markets and they are telling their customers that they have an additive in the concrete that keeps it from wicking moisture from below. I'd be very careful. Either use a product made to be glued to a slab and use a moisture barrier or deal with the height difference and make sure you get a good barrier on top of the slab. My two cents.. realwoodfloors.com...See MoreGlued down Jatoba engineered flooring buckling
Comments (11)Thank you all for your responses. I have lived in my townhouse for over 20 years and I can say unequivically that the criginal construction was crap. I am always finding things that don't meet spec everytime I do a reno. The trades in Victoria don't have a great reputation. Overpriced and underskilled in a lot of cases and it's hard to find a good one. This guy was supposed to know what he was doing. Had been doing it for 15 years. Showed me photos and gave references. I know better than to pick the cheapest price so I thought I was doing everthing right with this reno. glennsft: No moisture test except for tenting was done. It was done in June 08 and showed no moisture accumulation. Lorre - I know the install is defective. My floorguy and his company are long gone so there is no way for me to even ask for a repair, not that I would let him touch anything in my house again. I can't afford to re-do the whole floor Floorguy: as Victoria is right on the water, the RH tends to be high. This sudden spike occured after a long hot summer. I have a number of question though, 1. Why didn't the floor lift during last winter right after it was laid? I was using baseboard heat and the house definitely felt damp Could it have been because the change was gradual and the floor had time to acclimate? 2. As the RH begins to normalize for winter, can I expect the lifted boards to settle? 3. Will using the propane fireplace speed up the drying process and help the floor to settle back down so it can be re-glued? 4. As there are four boards involved, might it be a good idea to take 1 up and use that space to access and fill the other voids with the repair kit glue then put a new piece in the space? 5. How wide should the gaps around the floor be? The mfg instructions say .5 in and it looks like that is already the case after removing the wall board. Should I widen them? Thanks again for all your help Bye for now VIGirl...See MoreSolid wood floors OR better grade engineered wood floors
Comments (14)A high quality engineered floor will have the same or longer wear life as a solid wood floor. This isn't usually a big deal in residential as you are talking at least 45 years of life... Engineered wood flooring can cope with changes in moisture better than a solid wood floor, but if you have a good HVAC system and monitor the humidity in your home, both will be fine. Solid wood floors are not recommended below grade, for example in the basement. Our standard 5/8" thick engineered floor will give you 3-4 sand and refinishes. This floor can be glued to the slab and will line up with carpet and most tiles. This means you don't have to drop the slab (money saver!) or use transition pieces. Some areas where it is very dry have had issues with the thicker engineered floors (3/4" with 6mm wear layer) as the plywood base dries out at a different rate to the wear layer. One of our clients (Flooring installer) in Arizona is replacing engineered with solid as it handles that climate better. Since it sounds like you are doing a remodel, you are probably best to go with an engineered floor. A 5/8" thick engineered wood floor from our company has a 4mm wear layer and will give you 3-4 sand and refinishes. This you can glue to the slab and will take up around the same amount of thickness as the travertine did. This means you will not have to replace the trim, cut off the bottoms of doors etc. Typically a solid wood floor is installed on a plywood sub-floor. On a new build the slab would be dropped on those areas to allow for the extra thickness. A quality engineered wood floor is not inferior to a solid wood floor in anyway. Once it is installed you will not be able to tell the difference. If you have further questions, feel free to reach out! We are only a email or a phone call away -- debbie@woodco.com // (210) 298-9663 Keep safe! -- Debbie George | WoodCo www.woodco.com...See MoreGlued Down Engineered Floor Creaks/Pops/Hollow Places
Comments (16)Oh dear. That's what I thought. Here's the skinny on 'prep'. Prep is the UGLY stuff that NO ONE sees and NO ONE knows to ask about...nor do they usually OFFER the ugly stuff in their quotes. The ugly stuff is expensive. And in the past they have quoted it and they have lost jobs to lower bidders who did NOT offer prep. Over and over again the 'good' companies offer quotes on prep and time and time again they LOSE the jobs. So they have started to work like everyone else. To stay in business they drop the preparation quotes. Which is how they get jobs....because their bids are now 'in line' with the companies around them. Subfloor prep needs to be paid for. And the company that promises it must deliver it. The basis is, you pay for it = you get it. This company has not quoted nor were they paid for prep work. Sadly (oh so sadly) you were the one who 'got what you paid for' (not meant in a mean way). So...to get preparation done, you will need to pay for it. An upstairs preparation costs = $1-$3/sf for a bit of sanding...a bit of levelling...a bit more sanding. The concrete slab can require $2 - $5/sf for preparation...and in this case the sealant will need to be paid for as well. A slab that is in good shape that is nice and flat, that only needs a good scrub to get a bit of bite to it = $2/sf. A concrete slab that needs a good cleaning (may have old carpet glue all over it) and plenty of grinding and plenty of patching (Self Leveling Compound = SLC) and more grinding can and will cost $4+/sf. And these numbers are why they didn't quote it. The upstairs = $2/sf x 609sf = $1,218. The downstairs concrete (just for fun we'll use $4/sf) = $4/sf x 694sf = $2,776. The prep alone *should have been quoted at $4,000. Their quote should have been more than $25,700. ***At this point, assuming you can prove they were all wrong on all things, they owe you removal of the improperly installed floor. They must replace with 'like for like' subfloor plywood that was there BEFORE they arrived. Be aware that you *might be required to pay the extra $4,000 for the subfloor preparation that you did not pay - that needs to be done...you may not. It depends on how good you are at negotiating. If they won't do this voluntarily you will be required to pay for the NWFA Certified Inspector to come out and document what you spoke about over the phone. And then you present the findings (but do NOT hand over the document...SHE who pays for the report OWNS the report). The findings will push them to do the right thing. Hopefully they will come to their senses before you have to spend several hundred dollars on the Inspection....See Morelive_wire_oak
7 years agoLu Yan
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7 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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