Acclimation of 3/4' hard wood

15 years ago

My oak flooring is going to acclimate to the room for 3 weeks. I just hauled it into the room today in the boxes and ripped open the ends of the boxes. Should I do more to allow air circulation or is this enough? Thank you very much.

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Comments (7)

Laurie
15 years ago
I'm a rookie here, so can't answer your question. But, I have a question for you...is your wood solid or engineered?

I'm currently researching engineered wood floors because our house is on a concrete slab. I can not wait to be in your stage of this process...opening the boxes and looking at all that beautiful wood!
lemanscvbl
Original Author
15 years ago
Its solid. I dont think there is an engineered that would be 3/4" thick.
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We just refuse any longer to install wood without the HVAC in and running. There should be moisture tests to the sub strait and hardwood prior to installation and after the hardwood. Anything less than that is compromising the job to a point.When things happen after the fact, questions are asked and the finger pointing begins. If you do things to the basic letter of the law, there is a much lessor percentage of ever having a problem. it is that simple. Now, if it's a pain in the butt to install the heat prior, then you must weigh the extra grief or cost vs knowing that it is being done correctly. If it is baseboard than i would agree that we will install after the flooring is in, but the humidity be controlled, and there would be a heat source in that house that is temperature set 24 hours a day and 1 week before the install and giving me the basic environmental temperature and climate that will be present during and after installation. I want that house warmed up and dried out. Especially if solid wood and more so if a plank. I was a little harsh with my 1st statement as I see so many GC take shortcuts to make their lives easier and say the heck with the client. It may not be the case in your situation. I just would not hem saying the heck with climate as long as i acclimate as that is playing Russian roulette and sometimes the results are not good.
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Just having new hickory floors laid. They are cupping and have raised up in other areas. The house was not air conditioned when they laid the floors. AC has now been running for 2 weeks and cupping is still present, though better. When floor guy came back the moisture meter showed the plywoood to be at 16 and hickory was below 6. Now hickory shows at 14 and plywood at 12. Does this mean anything to you all? He said he did not check the moisture before he laid the floor. Seriously!
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Ridges .... Cupping Cupping is caused buy moisture. It could be the crawl space is too damp, making the subfloor wetter then the conditioned interior of your home. It could be the wood was not properly acclimated and acclimated to the dry winters heating. Installed tight, and now the the humid summers is here, you have swelling expansion, with nowhere to go, the pressure of the expansion, crushes the edges of the flooring. when that pressure gets too great, the floor heaves upward, in a buckled installation. The fact is, the wood has gained moisture since its installation.
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To answer the question directly, if the floor planks are full length or close to it, it will add considerably to the stiffness of the floor system. The more shorties get mixed in the less strength is added. Typically strip flooring is in mixed lengths from 12" to 84". If you can get 12 foot stuff, (or longer) you will add greatly to the strength, and if the joints break over framing and superior fastening is utilized (cut nails), the subfloor is not even needed. Casey
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sweeby
15 years ago
I did a fair amount of research on that and found a whole bunch of conflicting answers. Some manufacturers advised removing or slitting the plastic box covers, others didn't. One recommendation that did come up was to allow air circulation space between your boxes rather than stacking them closely together. Another recommended staggering the different levels north-south, then east-west, then north-south again, but no more than 6-7 stacks high.

I'm certainly no expert, but that's what my research turned up. Hope it helps...
allison1888
15 years ago
Just an FYI-- it's good to do this with drywall, too. Give it a few days to adjust to the interior climate. Three weeks is plenty for the wood.
tetrazzini
15 years ago
Stack the boards with spacers, like this: Cut a 3/4" thick board (scrap pine, or plywood, etc.) into 3/4" wide strips about a foot long. In other words, they'd be 3/4"x3/4"x12" or so. Put a few on the floor parallel to, and a few feet away from, each other. Lay a few floorboards on them with a little space between them, width-wise. Then put a few more spacers on top and repeat. Continue until it's a foot or two high, then start another pile if needed. This allows air to circulate around all the boards.

The spacers don't have to be 3/4", they can be 1/2" or whatever. And the length can also be whatever you want to use.
mrclose
15 years ago
I worried like heck about the acclimation thing too before I had my brazilian cherry hardwood floors installed.

A LOT of worry .. for Naught!

Got the wood delivered One Day before the install and have never had a problem!

It probably has a lot to do with the quality of the product?

I used BR-11 3/4" hardwoods.

Here is a link that might be useful: FLOORS
mrclose
15 years ago
Meant to also say that the install was about a year ago.

MC

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Acclimation of 3/4' hard wood

Comments (7)

Laurie

lemanscvbl
Original Author

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sweeby

allison1888

tetrazzini

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Acclimation of 3/4' hard wood

Comments (7)

Laurie

lemanscvblOriginal Author

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sweeby

allison1888

tetrazzini

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lemanscvbl
Original Author