1. Not all the floating engineered wood floors are made equal. Total thickness and wear layer(top hardwood part)make huge difference on the performance of your installed floor. To me, 1/2" or thicker 3 ply floating wood floors are still the better built than many floating wood floors on the market. I don't believe 3/8" floating click loc floor can ever be a good floor. It is too light weight and weak loc mechnism. 2.Your floating wood floors are only as good as your leveled subfloor. Hollow sounds and noises are mostly from low spots on your subfloor. 3. A good 1/8" accoustical underlayment like cork or Floor Muffler will improve your floating wood floors performance. 4. The bigger area your floating floor covers, the thicker and heavier floor it requres. Stay away from 5/16" floating floors. Nobody can install a sastisfactory floor with it.

Before glueless floating wood floors, you had to use a PVA type II adhesive, on the tongue or in the groove, and the use of strap clamps to compress, for a tight fit. Properly milled flooring capable of gluing t&G are still made. Not all engineered can be floated. Some have to sloppy of a T&G to do so. Those are usually gluedown only.

Hi Lisa This forum can be frustrating at times I suggest you Google this  I bet you will find lots of info. What I am going to say next is what I have gleaned from the Internet  nothing first hand It is my understanding that floating hardwood floors can go over tile. You said it is "almost" flat. The "almost" might cause a "floating" feeling when walking on it. From a previous thread on here, the accepted standard of flat is within 3/16" in 10' and or 1/8" on 6'. 1) You should ask your installer if your floor meets this requirement. 2) If not, you can probably float a filler. This has been discussed on the forum as well. This is a product available at the Big Box stores and I do have positive personal experience with this. Again  ask your installer about this. 3) You want to lay a good underlayment  such as "Floor Muffler". For the third time, IÂm going to suggest you discuss this with your installer. One last "2-cent" tip  If your installer doesnÂt have answers to these questions that leave you feeling like you are in good hands  keep looking for an installer that does. The wrong one can cause *lots* of headaches and lots of wasted $$$. BTW  ClickLock is meant for DIY. You can do this yourself. But if you donÂt want to, you can probably find non ClickLock that is less expensive to purchase and would probably cost the same for installation. HTH! Jeri

To get an accurate reading on moisture you'll need to perform a calcium chloride test like this. If you are dry you can go either way on your installation. Gluing it down is more solid / better sounding installation method. You can even go with a moisture block adhesive to give you more peace of mind. To not have the hollow sound for a click lock install, make sure you go with a premium high density underlayment - not the cheap bubble-wrap looking stuff. We only sell high quality Healthier Choice Sound Solution and OmniChoice underlayment. Both have the highest sound ratings in the market. A non-moisture block adhesive and a quality underlayment will cost you roughly about the same money. Alan Ward