Lisbon lemons are slightly smaller than Eurekas and have a noticeably thicker skin that is smoother (making it nicer for zesting). I think Lisbon lemons are juicier and, overall, less seedy (but that depends on the exact clone of "Lisbon" versus "Eureka"). The Lisbon tree has more thorns than the Eureka. Also, fyi, 'Meyer' isn't a true lemon and it will produce well everywhere. Eureka and Lisbon will produce lots of fruits everywhere but they develop thick, somewhat bitter skins in cool climates (such as SWGB Zones 15, 16, 17; maybe where you are) and the flesh doesn't sweeten up as well with cool summers, cool winters. Have you tasted fruit off of a true lemon tree in your neighborhood? Joe

The set up is working great and I love it. It's cool how the Logamatic 2107 regulates everything (out side temp. sensor is installed). At the beginning of the season, when just taking the chill out of the house, the boiler wouldn't run that hot. Just enough to warm the radiators. (I would say 100-130 degrees.) Because the outside air temp was not that low. Now that the outside air temp. is much cooler (even below 32F at times), the boiler runs hotter. (around 150-200 degrees.) But the temps. vary widely and these temps. are not absolute. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler doesn't turn on along with the circulator. If the water in the boiler is hot enough, only the circulator will come on until the boiler cools down enough to warrant the oil burner to cycle on. So the boiler doesn't needlessly make more hot water than is needed. Sometimes the oil burner wont even have to turn on because there's enough hot water for the cycle of the circulator. The circulator for the heating zone for the house does cycle on and off more often to keep a more constant even air temp. in the house (68 degrees). With the new digital thermostat I'm experimenting with CPH (Cycles Per Hour). You can set the thermostat to make more short on/off cycles or longer on/off cycles by adjusting the CPH. This adjusts how often the circulator cycles on/off each hour. I started out with 5 CPH and now I'm trying out 4 CPH. The boiler will run hotter when making hot water of course (indirect fired maintaining 140 degrees with mixing valve set at 125 degrees). Domestic hot water always takes priority (or you can change that default setting). Even if the house is calling for heat and you need hot water for showers or laundry or dishwashing etc. The circulator for the house will stop and the circulator for the hot water will run until the hot water storage tank temp. is satisfied. Then the circulator for the house will continue until satisfied. I have the Logamatic on "Late" mode. Meaning the domestic hot water production stops at 11:30 PM every night. It resumes the next morning at 6:30 AM. The water storage tank (Buderus ST-150) loses very little heat standing by and there is plenty of hot water stored. So no real need to keep water at peek 140 degrees if it's not being used over night. The system goes into "Night" mode at 11:30 PM also. This turns down the "heating curve" for heating the house (lower operating temp.) The system goes into "Day" mode at 6:30 AM, where domestic hot water is priority and made first if needed and regular heating temps. are back up to normal for home heating. All these setting and times can be changed on the Logamatic to fit your homes lifestyle. It's pretty cool learning how this system works.

@Corlett, I did wonder about that. We had a home that had countertops with a 90 handle and it was chipped to point it would put tiny little holes in my shirt when I was at the sink. Def don't want that again. As a matter of fact, I truly want a flat polished edge, but worry that we'll have the same chipping issue. Any suggestions for something that would go well with an eased edge?

Backs plashes are difficult because they are basically design decisions vs building decisions and while most of us are good at picking and figuring, pre-visualizing is tougher. Even some KDs aren't especially good at doing a back splash so don't beat yourself up. Tile design can be very challenging -- if the store will help out with it that's always a bonus. Some will for a nominal or no fee. They'll do the design and sometimes even help find an installer. . When it gets tough, instead of getting lost in tile world I think it might be easier to find a photo of a backsplash you love, or even of a tile object you love. If you post it folks here can give suggestions about how it will work in the kitchen and whether it will produce the result. Then it can be used as the basis for the splash (take it along while shopping). Here's an extensive list of tile sources which can help with some of the pre-shopping. http://www.atticmag.com/shopping/tile.html My backsplash basically sets the style of the kitchen. It runs from countertop to ceiling on 2 walls -- so it's the opposite of the 4" micro-splash. I began with the tile and picked around it (not typical). My inspiration was ceramic tile stoves. I drew out a scale "cartoon" of the splash and colored it in and taped it up to see how it would look. Tile has repetitive pattern so it always draws the eye. The cartoon was a bit of work but very helpful as it covered nearly a 2' x 3' section (paper taped together).