That is a great point about never being able to "refinish" a laminate! I never thought of that. And I know what you mean about something that's "real" reALLY lOOking REAL! I've got some beautiful granite on the kitchen counters and porcelain tile in my sun room. Never ever does it bug me and THAT's because it's the real thing I think. My main idea was that I didn't want any grout lines and that Wilsonart is sotight that it almost looks like stained concrete. Of course, there's obviously going to be a "repeat" in the pattern somewhere, and, if you look at different angles in different light you'll definitely see the separation lines in the tiles. It IS tight though like I wanted. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, after a year of putting this off, I thought I'd come to a decision. I KNEW my sixth sense was telling me I'm not yet comfortable with this decision. Tell me, if you know, is there any sort of weight issue with slate? I'm putting this all on a raised floor (about 2 steps up from the great room level)(long story, this is a remodeled school! haha) Because the floor is raised via a knee wall (floor joists, plywood floor, etc) I'm wondering about weight with slate, ceramic/porcelain, or similar. Thanks so much for your feedback, live wire oak, and others, this is helping me!

I like the interest of beadboard and subway tile (i'm biased, though, because that's what we're planning on doing). I think all subway can be a little sterile, the beadboard gives it a little more texture. Not sure on the color of your walls - looked like there were still paint samples on the daylight photo? We are planning on having the tile the full height of the backsplash (around 18") with the beadboard only going partway - around 14"). I like the look of the extra molding on the top and the paint showing above the beadboard so it's not all white, white and more white (we have bright white cabs). Also, for what it's worth, I got subway tiles that are 2" x 6" and I love them - they are a little more retro looking to me because they are long and narrow - most subway tile I looked at is 3" x 6" or 4" x 8". Of course, we're just starting out, so no pics, although I DO have some lame pics of all my samples taped to the wall with blue tape!

Simulating wood with a photographic applique layer under a clear protective layer, laminate is just a composite. I would not consider spending money on a laminate floor at this point. It isn’t a better solution than going with the ivory carpet for a few years. Laminate is $, but it's noisy and doesn’t like water. "Water can cause laminate flooring to swell if it gets between the seams. Being made of pressed board, laminate can easily chip--especially the critical tongue and groove sections.” Where I would spend extra money is on the padding under the rug. That will go a long way to help keep the rug clean. It isn’t the rug fibre which stains, it is whatever liquid has soaked into the pad that keeps coming back to haunt you. Spend a few cents extra and ask for Mohawk Smart Step. it has a coating which keeps any liquid from soaking into the pad. If it needs to be seamed, have them duck-tape the seams. I have a light wool wall to wall carpet. Should something spill, I grab a dry cloth or paper towel or newspaper and step on it until all the liquid is out of the rug. Then, use a combo of water and ammonia, and just dab at it. Actual dirt or mud, just let it dry and then vacuum.

My father was a ceramic tile contractor. I also have lots of family and friends in the Houston area. To me, there are two separate and distinct issues: (1) whether to use tile or wood; and (2) whether to use wood look tile if you go the tile route. A single flooring choice in the public areas of an open concept works well. Having a separate type of flooring for the kitchen is also common. In the Sunbelt, cold tile floors is not a big issue. More of an issue is being on your feet a lot. My choice preferences would be: (1) wood floor throughout; (2) stone look porcelain tile throughout; or (3) stone look porcelain in the kitchen and wood all other public areas on that level. Wood look tiles IMO paint you into a design corner. It’s IMO a fad. Beyond that, wood look tile seldom works with other flooring choices. It never looks real because of short lengths. It does not transition well with real wood or stone look tile. So if used, pretty much need to use throughout. It can greatly impact kitchen cabinet colors. If you tire of it, it is a pain to remove. Wood floor can be refinished.