@derauf Permanent Press is the cycle that doesn't run Eco Active recirculation. Did you remove and examine the diverter for a broken linkage, or a foreign object jamming it from physically shifting modes? Assuming your pump runs and the diverter is not broken or jammed, a cause of continuous recirculation (failure to drain) is a bad motor controller board that continuously powers the diverter, per the previous replies to Greg Neault in this thread. Using Permanent Press won't circumvent that problem because the board is bad and powers the diverter at all times regardless of the selected cycle. A possible work-around is via disconnecting the diverter wires. Permanent Press is the only cycle that would work that way. The motor board would run the pump during recirculation periods on the other cycles which would drain the water even if the diverter is disconnected.

Hopefully, The final chapter I was able to diagnose my control panel non-function as mentioned above. Turns out the power button had no "click" to it. I removed the display board and found that the microswitch had somehow not released itself. I carefully cleaned the switch, reassembled the panel and now the control panel is fully functional. I was able to program the tub size and attempted another load of laundry. This cycle lasted approximately five minutes and again the machined died completely as before. I checked all incoming voltages and found them to be in spec I did some research and contacted the warranty folks. In the mean-time, I found another write-up that stated "Before you order or replace the controller on your Fisher-Paykel washer, please read this article over carefully! Machine controls are often replaced, only to fail again shortly after replacement. The reason for this is because there was an underlying condition that caused the control to fail in the first place. The two most common reasons for a blown machine control: Wet or shorted water pump. Before you replace your machine control, tip the machine back and check the condition of the WATER PUMP. Look for signs of rust, leakage or seepage thru the seal, and also look for a burnt or discolored coil on the pump's motor. The pump may even smell "burnt" to you. If you install a new control in a machine with a shorted or leaky water pump, your new control will fail again, perhaps as soon as the first load of wash. If your pump is bad, it MUST be replaced along with the machine control. Another reason for control failure is leakage around the thermistor seal. I upended the machine and low and behold found a small and slight amount of rust around the coil of the pump. I also checked the termistor seal and found it to be OK When the Warranty gentlemen showed up a week later, I showed him this write-up and he didnÂt challenge the diagnosis. He ordered a new control board and pump. The warranty folks order the parts directly from Fisher-Paykel. For the next twist to this saga, The pump was back-ordered. I finally received the parts three weeks later and the warranty service was scheduled for today. I am not sure how my pump encountered itÂs demise as there are no apparent leaks, but I will indeed keep an eye on it from time to time The new parts went in and I have been washing all day without a hitch. No more trips to the Laundromat. I hope this discussion helps someone else with similar problems and I wish to thank all of those who came forward to offer help Many Thanks to all.

@HU-800120566 Next step is do not try running the machine any further with a bad pump unless you have confirmed there's a fuse on the pump wires in the console, and even then it's not a good idea. The next step beyond that is disconnect the wires from the pump and 1) check for 7 ohms resistance reading on the pump and 2) check for 120v power at the pump wires when running it in diagnostics. If no power at the wires then the motor board is bad. If the resistance reading is more than 10% wrong either + or - then the pump is bad ... but it could be bad even if the reading isn't too far wrong. A test cord can be rigged to run the pump directly from an outlet. Clearly the pump is bad it it doesn't run that way ... or if it runs but overheats and shuts off. Are you sure you're getting Fault 39? A failed pump typically triggers Fault 37. However, the machine does not monitor pump operation directly. Failure to drain is determined by way of the water level not dropping when it should be doing so ... which is via the water level sensor ... so Fault 39 could also be part of that problem. 36, 37, 38, and 39 can be related to the water level sensor or pressure tube issues.

Hmmm. Should be between between 110v and 125v. Higher voltage is too much power so it'd run hot and kick-out on overheat protection, maybe pretty quickly, maybe almost instantly. However, seems odd the reading is so much over the norm. An earlier model uses a 230v pump, the motor board on it has components to increase the voltage for the pump circuit even though the machine connects to a standard 120v power outlet. Your board doesn't do that for the pump circuit, although it may produce higher voltage for other circuits. Anyway, you've confirmed the board is outputting power to the pump circuit. Check again on the connector down at the pump to confirm power is getting all the way there to rule out a broken/shorted wire. The only other check is a resistance reading on the pump (7 ohms, you've already done that). I have no suggestion other than replace the motor board again. You said the board had already been replaced once. Is it new enough to be covered by a parts warranty of sorts?