I've had problems with bought compost like this. I got even a truckload of a horse stall sweepings compost -- all wood shaving, manure, bits of feed, and the urine to heat things up. It's wonderful stuff, but it gets hydrophobic. I had a big pile of it over the winter, and it was very difficult to wet. I noticed after a long slow rain, it was still dry just an inch down. I mixed it up. I'd try wetting it with a hose, just to prove to myself it was 'better'. It just tends to be very homogenus (sp?) and quickly begins to sort out to it's little layers---like tiny little shingles, I imagine. I've gone back to raised beds of it, and scratched in my lovely, lovely, did I say lovely? homemade compost. I also have slowly scratched in the odd pot of plain old dirt/clay. The mix is is very much better. I laugh at myself a little--I got truckloads when I was starting beds because it was easy. "Bah! on all this clay!" I thought. Now, I feel like I should have trusted nature to know--clay is necessary to hold water, and variety is essential for proper structure.

You can't defy retrogradation of amylopectin - staling - especially where it comes to the crust. The best way to prevent it is to eat it quickly because staling BEGINS within 2-hours of baking. The crust softens in wrapped bread and the moisture level in the crust increases from about 12% to 28%. This is when that dry, crisp, pleasant texture of fresh crust changes into the soft, leathery, not-so-pleasant texture of a stale crust. gina w - FYI - the worst place to store bread is in the refrigerator. That's the fastest way to make bread stale. In one experiment sited in a class I took on Retrogradation of Amylopectin, bread stored at 46°F (refrigerators are usually around 40°F), staled as much in one day as bread held at 86°F did in six days. You may find freezing it in user-friendly amounts, tightly wrapped and stored in a plastic container, will work well for infrequent bread use. -Grainlady

Here's some info I found when googling Lysine..it's from the website California Veterinary Supply: "What is feline herpes virus? Feline herpes virus is an upper respiratory virus of cats. It is also known as rhinotracheitis virus. It is very common among cats, especially in environments where there are multiple cats or new cats are constantly interacting. The virus is spread through the air and replicates in the upper respiratory tract (nasal area, tonsils). The conjunctiva of the eye is also affected during the primary infection. Clinical signs of infection include sneezing and ocular and nasal discharge. In most cases the primary infection resolves with no residual ocular lesions. However, depending on the age when the cat is affected, the serotype of the virus (infectivity or strength of infection), and other factors, there may be various ocular signs. In very young cats, adhesions of the eyelids to each other or to the cornea may occur. Adult cats may experience recurrent conjunctivitis or corneal ulcers. The virus remains latent in the nerves that serve the eyes. When a cat is stressed or exposed to new serotypes (different strains) of herpes virus, the ocular disease can recur. There is some evidence that eosinophilic keratitis, plasmacytic-lymphocytic keratitis, corneal sequestrum, and some cases of anterior uveitis may be associated with feline herpes virus infection. How do cats get feline herpes virus? Most cats are affected as kittens, contracting the infection from their mothers. Stray cats, multi-cat households, and cats from households where new cats are constantly introduced are more likely to suffer infection. Feline herpes virus is not contagious to dogs or to humans but only affects cats. How is feline herpes virus diagnosed? History and clinical signs can diagnose ocular diseases caused by feline herpes virus. Aside from history and clinical signs, diagnostic tests for feline herpes virus include virus isolation, immunofluorescent antibody testing, polymerase chain reaction testing, serology, and cytology. Testing can be expensive and is generally reserved for specific cases. Tests that may not specifically detect the presence of herpes may be used to detect ocular disease caused by herpes. These tests include a Schirmer tear test (measuring tear production), corneal staining, and conjunctival biopsy. How is feline herpes virus treated? Treatment for feline herpes virus infections is nonspecific and generally directed at controlling secondary bacterial infection. A topical antibiotic such as tetracycline or erythromycin may be prescribed for use in the eye. Systemic antibiotics may also be prescribed. " Here is a link that might be useful: Animal Health Channel forum for FHV

You need a product called VetWrap (or at least that's what it's called last time I checked). It is a stretchy bandage that you unroll and cut. It sticks to itself. I'm sure you've seen your vet use it. I'd put the booties on, or absorbent cotton, plastic baggie over, and then vetwrap it on. Good luck!