STOP SANDING! If there is ever any doubt that theres lead get it tested. Most big box stores sells instant tests for lead. It will show the pressence of lead. Its not a comprehensive test. If there is lead you need it removed by a professional. Not doing so can cause serious health risks. With the flaking you are getting i suggest you hire a pro to take a better look at the floor. While 100 yr old fir can be sanded it does need to be examined. Some times old wood if not taken care of properly over the years is just a lost cause. Not saying your floor is shot. I have no way of knowing without visually examining it. But at this stage most highly recommended pros will at the very least come out and give you a bid.

This is a very common question. As the poster above mentioned, Fir is relatively soft; however, one of the beautiful things about Douglas Fir Flooring is that as it weathers, it absorbs nicks and blemishes into the wood. If you are hoping for a floor that is blemish free and pristine, Fir is not your choice. If you are looking for something that is warm and filled with character, than Douglas Fir Flooring is a great idea. As to putting it in the kitchen, keep in mind that the finish you use will be imperative to the durability of your floor. If using a water based finish, we recommend using an extra coat above and beyond the manufacturer's directions. Good Luck with your project. Here is a link that might be useful: Douglas Fir Flooring

Our decking contractor built us a deck out of Trex Transcend (wood grained plastic coating on the top and sides Trex--"rope swing" color) on the top side and dark burnished chocolate brown on the underside of the Trex boards. The framing, floor joists, posts, and glulam beams are all out of" Douglas Fir." The posts are all being wrapped in white vinyl. The fascia perimeter is also covered with Trex Transcend. We had to add additional post to make the deck freestanding, because of the brick veneer. They will also be wrapped in vinyl. I would love any suggestions on how to make the the beams on the inside next to the house look better too. I would greatly appreciate any input on what is the a very good low maintenance long lasting sealant for Douglas Fir wood that will look good with this white and taupe color combo. I have heard that solid body stains will eventually flake and peel and have to be sanded down and restained in 5 years, which isn't very appealing, although I like that look a lot and it covers up most of the woods' imperfections. Clear (non-pigmented) stains can be sprayed on with a garden sprayer, but I've heard it's better to brush it on, so it'll soak in better, and doesn't risk getting spray droplets on the top side of the boards that might stain them. Transparent or translucent stains with pigment look very nice, but really show when they need to be re-done, and you have to mask everything off to avoid getting stain on the Trex boards. Our deck is on the west side of our home and wraps around to an upper smaller deck on the south. About half of it has a roof over it. Does anyone have a stain/sealant they've used that they really like? How long did it last before having to be re-done? Also, it's too late to seal the top side of the floor joists, which I now know should have been done. Any suggestions or tips about which sealer(s) works best and how to protect the bare "Douglas Fir" wood that shows between the Trex boards, now that the deck is nearly completed. We have the metal hidden fastener system. Anyone have any info or experience about which lasts the longest--oil or water based stains? How long you can go before having to re-seal them? How long will a Douglas Fir framework last if you keep it sealed? Which last longer primer & paint or stain? Many thanks for your help!

Doug fir has a lot of applications and it's been used as flooring for a long time. Certainly you can use it to build cabinet doors and drawer faces. If it's a wood that appeals to your personal "style" or matches the decor of your home is a question only you can answer. While your efforts to reuse materials is admirable I seriously doubt if you going to save a lot of money. You're going to have to pay someone to mill the logs. There's no guarantee about quality or yields although an experience sawer should be able to give you some indication of what you'll end up with. You'll need to let the wood dry. Air drying will take a year or so and for cabinetry you'll want to have it kiln dried. Then you'll have to pay someone to mill it into flooring or make your cabinets. You might want to take a look at this industry article on doug. fir. http://www.wwpa.org/dfir.htm Mike