Floorguy: Should I be wary of the not-glue-down version? (especially if there is no track record...) I'm asking because not having to glue down would be a good/interesting option if we end up having to diy. Is there typically a longevity difference between glue-down versus click-together? (I know it will potentially sound different.) I would imagine the click-together would be easier to repair. Do you have any opinions about Mirages click-together shape? (It looks markedly different than others I've seen.) Also, where would the average homeowner find the kind of comparison of finishes like you state? Is there such a thing, or is it mostly real-world-experience kind of sentence? (On the Mirage website they say their finish is UP TO five times more durable than other finishes. Other finishes...like site finished? I thought all aluminum oxide was like some large amount better than site finished in general, so what does Mirage mean? Is this just the Canadians being their understated selves?)

Although not in any way 'necessary' due to the self-interlocking nature of the click system. (In fact that was why it was developed) However, there is absolutely no reason I can ascertain why the click systems can't also be nailed or glued down to the substrate if desired just like an engineered T+G system if one likes the totally solid feel underfoot. Solid wood flooring is nailed or glued down to try to limit its thermal movement. Engineered flooring is in fact cross plyed layers of wood anyway which are all glued to each other to enhance stability. So fixing it again down to the substrate rather than installing in a floating way would have no adverse effects. It would be in no way any messier (as suggested by user floorguy) than any other system ! It is all in the skill of the installer. Not all DIYers are hacks after all. Infact they can do a better/neater job than a pro as they are not conscience of the time to finish and move on to the next job. But like i said, it rather goes against the point of the system BUT can be done if required. Achitect

lynn2006: thank you, thank you for responding! I'm with you re: color, it's what's steering me too. I need some help here though... I feel like I'm not understanding something: When I mention "Lock" that "floats" to someone they think it's a "laminate" which to me (& maybe them) is like a "picture" of wood. (So there's an instant reaction that Lock would be inferior.) The salesperson said it's REAL WOOD, and also dry sawn cut (vs. rotary cut) so the boards won't have repetitive patterns. My problem is that I have not seen a full sized sample of the Mirage Lock in the Maple-Charcoal color I want, (only small samples of OTHER colors). In the store I physically compared a Lock random color sample (pretty small) to a full sized Engineered sample, same color, and the TOP (stained wood part) indeed appeared to look the same to me. My husband is trying to say that the way he understands it, is the Lock IS hardwood, not a picture, it's (the top stained wood part) just not as thick as the engineered. (of course I understand that Lock has an HDF core vs. the plywood core of Engineered.) My question to you Lynn is: did you get the chance to compare Mirage Lock to a same color of Mirage Engineered both in a full sizes? And does it indeed LOOK the same to you? Also, did your salesperson explain if it "clicked" underfoot? Or looked "wavy" or anything different than the engineered? Thank you SO much for any help : ) (PS: I also like the 4.25" width but was actually considering 5")

First of all I want to congratulate you for making the right selection. Mirage is a great product to have. I would be sure to request a Mirage installation and warranty instruction for radiant heat application through your floor store or installer. Also there is one type of underlayment we recommend for all of our radiant heat jobs: Deciblok. Good luck with your project!