enduring - our shower is 5' X 5' which is wider than one planned here. If they got the right kind of vanity, similar to Ikea's Godmorgon (which we used), it is floating, they could get beneath to clean there. If their countertop guy was able to cut the counter so there was no lip on the side where the glass is installed, seems like counter could be butted against glass and caulked above and below and along front to "seal" middle part. But still a bit risky considering caulk needs to be resealed periodically since it isn't meant to last forever. Would kind of spoil a shower (if it was mine) if I had to look at "junk" along that glass wall though at least it wouldn't be obvious when walking in the door. Also, houses usually aren't exactly level, could be some movement between vanity and glass - might not be a good thing :(

pharoah, thanks for that link. I've been perusing that site and others trying to find any information I can...it's so much harder to find (at least for me) than info re tile, kitchens, etc... I'm also considering asking them to use Lexel instead. Here's some great info on it. LOVE the repairability aspect as well as the ultra-clear aspect. I've used it in mosaics with clear glass and it's also lower-odor. LEXEL firmly bonds to almost any surface: Cartridge Interior/Exterior: wallpaper  trim  countertops  backsplashes  tubs  tile  thresholds  sills  windows  doors  siding  eaves  roof tiles  rooftop fixtures  shingles  vents  ductwork  HVAC  gutters  flashing cables  skylights Lexel Tube Sticks to just about anything! 3 Reasons Lexel Is Better Than Silicone: Clarity 19 times clearer than silicone Paintability Paintability Red acrylic paint on white Lexel Adhesion Adhesion Adhesion at 31 pounds of pull Lexel White is available in a VOC-compliant formulation for use in every state, including California. Try the Lexel 4-Pak Limited Trial Offer: About Lexel More reasons Lexel beats silicone:  All purpose: Lexel is a co-polymer rubber-based sealant. It has excellent adhesion to a wide variety of materials, even after seven days of water immersion. Although itÂs tougher and resists tearing, Lexel is a soft rubber. This allows it to stretch and compress with joint movement.  Tougher than silicone: You can scrub Lexel with cleansers and scouring pads. WonÂt "zipper" like silicone: Lexel wonÂt tear out of a joint.  Clearer than silicone: Lexel is 19 times clearer than silicone and will not yellow  Lower modulus than some silicones: Lexel will not rip apart the substrate when the joint expands.  Repairs better than silicone: Lexel sticks to itself so you can repair it by applying new Lexel on top of the old Lexel.  Can be applied to wet and dry surfaces: Lexel sticks to almost anything  wet or dry! Adheres to acrylic  copper  most plastics  polycarbonate  polystyrene (except foam)  aluminum  chrome  nylon  fiberglass  steel  PVC  ABS  asphalt  wood  Formica  Lexan  tile  Plexiglas  masonry  metal  glass  vinyl  canvas  paint  concrete  brick  fiber-cement  porcelain  parquet  terra-cotta  and more! Where To Use Lexel: In the Kitchen and Bathroom: Lexel seals beautifully while resisting mildew and dust collection. Once cured, it withstands scrubbing with abrasive household cleaners. Wallpaper: Lexel used over wallpaper edges prevents curling and is an excellent use of its ultra-clear formula. Trim: Clear Lexel may be used where you desire the surfaces to show through. This is especially helpful when natural woods are sealed, such as around molding or parquet flooring. On the Roof: Lexel holds its seal through rain, snow, sun and wind. Use it on your eaves, soffits, gutters, downspouts, flashing and shingles. Around Windows and Doors: Lexel keeps the weather outside. It seals thresholds, sills, siding, vents, pipes and air conditioners. Ductwork and HVAC: Leaky airducts heat up the walls instead of your living area. Use Lexel to permanently seal all connections. Where not to use Lexel Lexel should not be used in areas of continuous submersion (i.e., aquariums or swimming pools). Do not use Lexel in areas where temperatures exceed 200ºF. Lexel may damage some plastics, such as polystyrene foam insulation. Plastics not listed should be tested for Lexel compatibility before general application. General Application 1. Surface Preparation: Surfaces should be structurally sound and free of dirt, oil, release agents or other residues. It may be applied to wet surfaces, however, for best results apply on clean, dry surfaces. 2. Application: Use caulk gun. Cut spout to desired bead size. Puncture inner seal. Apply when surface temperature is between 10ºF and 120ºF. Surfaces below freezing should be free of frost. Large beads applied in warm temperature, 95ºF or hotter, may exhibit slight bubbling. This is due to the solvents trying to escape too quickly through the surface of the skin, but overall performance is not impaired. 3. Tooling: Exposed beads may be tooled by dipping finger in soapy water. Let finger "float" lightly over the lumps to smooth the bead out. 4. Repair: Repair of previously applied material may be done at any time. Newly applied Lexel will actually weld itself to the previously applied material. 5. Painting: Allow Lexel to cure 24-48 hours before painting with latex paints. Allow double cure time in temperatures less than 40ºF. Lexel must cure 30 days before applying oil-based paints; otherwise the paint surface will remain tacky for 2 weeks or more, depending on temperature and paint brand. 6. Cleaning: Surfaces, tools and hands may be cleaned with orange-based cleaners, mineral spirits or paint thinner. (If using mineral spirits or paint thinner, be sure to wash your hands with soap to remove residual cleaning solvent.) 7. Storage: If there is product left-over in the container when finished, wrap the entire nozzle in Saran Wrap® or aluminum foil and tighten with a rubber band. (NOTE: Polyethylene wraps will not keep the adhesive from curing in the nozzle. Saran Wrap® works best.)

Thanks ladies! Val, I've book marked that page. Interesting thing -- I know how to hand sew Victorian lampshades and I figure I could teach it too, just don't know if I like doing it all that much. It's hard on arthritic hands. It could be interesting to teach people to do small GG windows. Decals would be a snap. However, to teach it here I need a huge piece of furniture moved downstairs and would need to buy a new DR table... mine is a small round antique with no leaves. Still, it sounds like fun if I ever get this house in shape, and that is happening. Tracey, I once taught guitar at a local community college, so you're right that is an idea. Your friend is clever to be getting $ from two sources, both the school and cookbook sales. Hmmm... makes me think... Well, my son came over, finally. YAY! I've been unable to start the lawn mower. I took it to the shop and they said it needs a new starter -- which I got for it last year. My son mowed my back yard (YAY). He can pull the rope and start it; I seldom can. Then he said he thinks the outlet I plugged it into was tripped off. We'll see... he wasn't sure. But he messed with it. Anyway the good news is he got the dandelions before they went to seed, something I've been trying to do with no success. Then he put the bird room closet door back on it's track. It was the back door and I couldn't fix it myself. Then he climbed to my roof and stapled up my sagged down rope light that looks so awful laying there every night when it automatically comes on. Then he took down my old curtain rods and was arguing with me about how to put up the new ones when he decided he had to leave for his dinner appointment with a group of friends. So what he didn't do is affix the new GG window -- though he did take a good look at it and he's formulating a plan for how to do it. He also didn't take down my swag there, or re-do the trim around the window. And he didn't end up helping me get the drapery rods up. But maybe I can do those myself after all. Next time for the GG window. He did say upon seeing the window in person for the first time that my photos of it absolutely don't do it justice (I agree). He said I should try taking pictures at dusk. Now, about teaching classes, I'd have to decide if the best money was in teaching classes or in doing commissioned work, wouldn't I? Because if I teach it you can bet someone is going to get out there and do that commissioned work. The thing is, if I want to do the commissioned work, how should I advertise it? Most folks have no idea what this craft even is, let alone what can be done with it. Another question is how to price the work? This window took me an unbelievable number of hours. I can see this streamlining over time, and especially as I worked out some designs to offer.

Thx for your vote Lavender Lass - I think I'm going back to that option too. And, yes, we could make one of the cabs see-through (i.e., the left side of the bar with the 4"x4" beam). Possibly not with the larger 6"x6" structural beam that runs through the back of the right side of the bar. But I need to ask the architect that - great question! I was also thinking of keeping the coffee maker and speed oven in their stack but still doing two flanking cabs on the bar. Instead of being 28" each, they'd be 18" and I'd still have 5 feet of landing space on the counter. What do you think? Regarding the tv, right now, we have it on the far right wall. It's a flat screen that my husband adores and has engineered all of the sound system and high-tech speakers around it. I'm totally with you - as far as the location - but I'm not sure I'm going to win :). Thx again for all your great comments. Have a nice weekend :). P.S. Here's another pic of doing the glass cabs on both sides with a glass connector across the top. I could always make one side of the glass cab as glass - and panel in the other side - if the beams are too hard to get around. Now you got me thinking about what to ask my architect - thx! ">