When I first started working with gourds I had no idea about the molds and respiratory problems they can cause. I was cutting and sanding and scraping like crazy,having a good old time! After a few days I started having headaches daily,something out of the ordinary for me.I ended up getting a whopper of a sinus infection,but had no idea why.After about a month of working on the gourds and having the ongoing sinus infection and daily headaches,I accidently ran across an article about the safety measures one should take when working on gourds.I now wear a mask when cutting and cleaning and when possible do the work outside. I use acrylics and a sealer on my gourds also.Some gourds have a waxy coating on them and paint will not adhere to that.So far all but a few of the small ones that I have worked on haven't had that coating.If they do soak them for 20-30 minutes in warm water with a little dish detergent added and scrape them with a knife. You can also use colored pencils(map colors)for a more subtle color,pastels and many different dyes.You can order the dyes off the internet.You can do a Google search and find lots of information.Be prepared,gourds are addictive! Happy gourding!!!.................Lillie Here is a link that might be useful: Gourd supplies

Asbestos was used commonly in many building materials until its ban (actually just restriction) in 1978. In the late 1970's manufacturers had to start finding alternatives to asbestos, which was added to materials to increase their durability and fire resistance. Even after the restrictions, some manufacturers continued to add asbestos at lower levels, and others continued to sell off their inventories. Builders continued to use the products with asbestos as long as they were around. The asbestos made a superior product, so they would choose it over the new asbestos-free formula as long as they could. Many buildings built into the 1980's still have asbestos. So, basically asbestos is everywhere. Asbestos is safe unless you disturb it. Friable asbestos is the bad kind, which means the material is easily crumbled to dust with hand pressure. Non-friable asbestos material is hard and cement-like; it usually feels very similar to Hardipanel. That kind is quite safe unless you go cutting or drilling it. Any type of asbestos fibers can be neutralized by wetting the material you are removing. Common materials in older homes that contain asbestos are: 1. Vinly floor tiles (the 9" ones almost always have it and the 12" ones have it sometimes) 2. Transite pipe (cement piping used for exhaust flues, easily recognizable from the waffle pattern on the surface) 3. Old plaster, stucco, thinset mortar 4. Older Sheetrock joint compound and topping mud. The sheetrock panels are usually asbestos-free. I haven't seen any positive test results for sheetrock panels, but it could occur. 5. roofing asphalts 6. Thermal insulation. Older pipe wraps contain asbestos. Sprayed on insulation and loose fills also may. The insulations are usually friable. Most of the cases of Asbestos sickness are attributed to workers in shipyards breathing the asbestos dust they created while removing insulation. It is not that expensive to test for asbestos. You can take your own samples and bring them into the lab. Anything over 1% should be treated as asbestos, and anything over 0.1% should be treated cautiously. The disposal requirements make it so you really have to use a licensed abatement contractor to remove anything over 1% asbestos. I would not try to remove the asbestos (if it is). Just close it up in the cavity between the ceiling and floor. It can't hurt you if it's undisturbed.

Something you need to consider is that if a professional finds mold, you are required to declare it forevermore regardless what the outcome. You can show proof of treatment at the same time you declare having had mold but noone will give you guarentee that the house is mold free after the abadment is done. You stated that it's been said "all homes have mold" which I don't doubt. With only two small areas of concurn,I would be satisfied with a diy kit and following diy cleaning instructions if any was found. It is possible to live in a house for a lifetime without ill effect eventhough it has mold,lead based paint and asbestos all three. The material must be disturbed before it can be inhaled or ingested. I take nessary precautions like wearing resperator during demolition or restricting children from areas suspected to have lead paint until passed the age of chewing on everything they can. I also highly reccomend high effeciency hvac filters for general good health and equipment protection.

I love, love, love you guy’s ideas!! You guys are so thoughtful and talented at this- thank you so much- I am so impressed :)! So far, I’ve ordered curtains rings for the closet, and my boyfriend has agreed to move the furniture around with me on Sunday according to your suggestions :)! I’ve also found this low bed frame that I’m eyeing... and have identified more clothes to let go of... :) More floor space would be amazing, and those storage coffee tables would be so handy for little projects I’m working on... When I get home today, I will post a picture of the bed to the kitchen :) The closet is the same size it appears in the photos... relatively small and doesn’t go up high at all. Currently, I have my clothes, shoes, purses, printer, easel, suitcase, linens/towels/extra throw pillows, vaccum, and memory box in there (basically, a catch-all for most of my smaller items). It’s pretty organized, and still has a bit of space. I think I can organize/declutter further and put some of the items from the side tables in there :)! Then I can replace the side tables or the dresser with airier ones, maybe the light wood and leggy as suggested. Will have to really assess what storage space I need after I do that (this week). As for downsizing your office, I once read that you should have everything at arm’s reach of your chair for peak productivity (like your car has all the controls at arm’s reach to function without having to move). In my top drawer on the left, there are business cards, usb sticks, post-it’s, a calculator, the basics I grab for a lot. Middle drawer is notebooks with different genres/ideas. Bottom left drawer is excess office supplies: empty notebooks, printer paper, manila files, lined paper. On the right, top drawer are work files and bottom drawer is personal files. Other than my printer, I can access everything without leaving my chair- but it took a month of decluttering to get there- I bet you can condense and accomplish what you are aiming for :) Start with decluttering excess paperwork- that’s what I see make a difference in most in offices! Go on paperless and auto payments to reduce paper bill space, and let go of things that you could use, but will probably not. Everything ‘could’ have a potential use, and that is where the problem often lies :) One of my clients told me a couple weeks ago, “let’s get real, I like it, but will I ever actually use it?” lol, with that mindset, cleared out an SUV load that day. Good luck!