"tiemco, I see your point on getting any nitrogen off the blades. What is your rational for accelerating so much nitrogen into the soil/root zone? Wont that be detrimental?" No. Sure you are going to get tons of growth, but I'll take that over burn any day. It's about a month early for the spring feeding above the transition zone, so all that nitrogen shouldn't stress the grass too much (not sure where the OP lives), Just be sure you mow often enough to keep it at the level you want. Nitrogen is fairly transient in most soils, so some will leach away as well. Fertilizer burn happens because the fert ingredients are salts, and with only a small amount of water around, like dew, the salts pull water out of your grass, basically dehydrates it. If you give it a good watering you prevent this from happening. "So if I understand tiemco, he is recommending AGAINST the Scott's Plus-2." Yes, I am against Weed and Feed products for a few reasons. They make you apply synthetic fertilizer to wet grass without watering it in. They make you combine applying synth. fertilizer at the same time you want to kill weeds. What if I want to kill weeds in early April? They make you apply weed killer in dry form (liquid form is much better) and to the whole lawn, even if you only have weeds in some areas. It's much better to apply liquid weed killers directly to the weeds. If your whole lawn has weeds throughout, then get the appropriate product (Weed B Gone Max is great for most lawn weeds, CCO should handle the rest) and apply it with a hose end sprayer. If you only have a few weeds in your yard, use a tank sprayer and apply the weed killer directly to those weeds. You will get better results and use much less chemical. Weed and Feed sells so well because most people are gullible and lazy. They want to do the least work possible, and they believe everything that it says on the bag. People see that and are like "All I have to do is one application and I'm done? I'll take it!" The best thing Weed and Feed does is make money for Scotts.

You can look in any older "Hot Rod" type magazine and see ads for "water injection systems" to increase power and gas mileage.If you ,examine the "system" you will find it uses manifold vacuum which is lowest at max power,just the opposite of what real "water injection"needs,this is the "myth" I mentioned. I know a little about ADI (anti-detonation Injection) systems, as they are called on older piston aircraft.I'm an FAA licensed A&P Mechanic and actually worked on aircraft using these systems. I also attended Flight Engineer school on the same aircraft (DC-6B)I've also worked some on Reno Unlimited air racers,that make much use of water,in fact most of the racers have one wing full of gasoline and one wing full of water,it's sprayed on oil coolers and radiators as well as into the intake system.I noticed the author of the referenced article mentioned the loss of 80/87 and 100/130 avgas and the problems caused by the use of 100LL.At that time many light aircraft were converted to auto gas. As an Authorized Inspector I approved some of these conversions, the same warning was on every STC (supplemental Type certificate)"Never use fuel containing Alcohol in this Aircraft!)Ethanol raises octane rating if you can keep it mixed.

today was first time using one. I don't know anything about the difference between weights and gauges Then could I suggest that rather than just jumping in with foods you first take the time to learn about pressure canning and pressure canners and how they work. Pressure canning isn't like BWB canning, It has a learning curve and takes time and practice and familiarity with the stages of the process before doing it. Otherwise what often happens, as other discussions here show, errors are made and food is either improperly processed and has to be tossed or time and effort are wasted. Start with the link below from NCHFP. Especially note the 10 min wait between removing the weight and removing the lids. Then take the time to learn the parts and names of the various parts of your particular canner and how they work and what the signs of problems are. Read through the various recipe instructions at NCHFP and determine what pressures you will be using most often at your altitude. Then do several practice runs using only jars of water in the canner (you can add food color to the water) until you learn exactly how to bring it up to pressure and maintain that pressure by careful adjustments to the heat and prevent siphoning (clear water in the canner and clear water when finished in the canner). Unlike other brands your canner comes with a gauge and a counterweight. That counter weight needs to be replaced with the 3 piece (5-10-15#) weight set (Part # 50332) that is NOT available from Presto but is available online at amazon and many other sources. There are numerous discussions here about out this and I linked a few. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/harvest/msg0916184818540.html http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/harvest/msg070835471337.html http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/harvest/msg081947018331.html http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/harvest/msg0817160620197.html If you choose to continue using the gauge then note that it must be tested annually and that it can be off by several pounds. Most importantly, slow down. We all have to learn to swim before we jump into the deep end. :) Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Using Pressure Canners

Waterlox is food safe once cured I believe but you still wouldn't chop on it as it would ruin the finish. I've been going back and forth on oiling and Waterlox for quite some time and decided to try the mineral oil/wax route first... I figure if I don't like it I can always sand it down and put a finish on it. What I like about the oil is the look/feel. Also, you can always sand down with a little sanding block any marks and just re-oil. The downside would be there's more maintenance (monthly oiling) and you really need to keep it oiled to help resists stains, etc. With waterloo (or similar) water will always bead and it's easy to wipe down. You can choose their satin finish if you don't like glossy. The Craft Art website (or Waterlox site) gives detailed instructions on how to finish. There's a nice product called Clapham's Beeswax Salad bowl finish (Amazon.com) that rubs in well and got great reviews. I've tried various products on my walnut cutting board. Here are some discussions I've found VERY helpful regarding all of this. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0116253024906.html?11 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg012043375905.html?7 http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0913354730186.html?df796bfdf359db38a4b9594d4fad145aGq26I http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0211025631864.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1214103427485.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0210344920885.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wood/msg021053255637.html *Also, keep in mind if you decide to try another product you'd need to sand down what you already have on there.... Good luck!