Durable Kitchen Table
pearsth
14 years ago
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abdulkhatri
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Pretty but durable everyday dining table?
Comments (32)I'm delurking to possibly add some information about your table. I've been contemplating refinishing our Ethan Allen American Impressions Shaker-style dining table, which I believe has a similar if not identical top to yours. The finish is lacquer. Restoring it could be as simple as re-amalgamating by brushing on lacquer thinner to allow the current finish to sort of melt, reflow, and dry. I will probably give it a try if I can determine how to maintain a dust-free environment in this household. Our top is cherry veneer over some other hardwood (common and not a sign of poor quality). I've read that commercial veneers can be extremely thin, like 1/32 inch. You would have to be very, very careful if you didn't want to sand it off. Good luck! Let us know what you do....See Moreadding durable finish to antique dining table
Comments (4)klem1 has some good advise. I can elaborate. First, what you want to determine is silicone (note the "e") oil on the finish. The most common source of this is Pledge furniture polish. Once you have silicone oil contamination, it's nearly impossible to get rid of it completely. It will cause many finishes to "fish-eye," cratering of finish when it's wet because the silicone oil destroys surface tension. I don't know of a reliable test for this, but I can usually spot it by the sheen or by the way finishes or stripper react when applied. Even if Pledge has not been used on the piece for decades, the oil is still there. If you can spray shellac, that's one way to seal it in. But otherwise, you might need to have it professionally stripped and refinished, as the pros know how to deal with Pledge contamination. The finish ion there is most likely shellac or lacquer, unless the prior owner or someone else did a DIY finish. About 1920 lacquer started being used in production finish rooms. By 1940, shellac had almost completely been replaced by it. So prior to 1920 - probably shellac 1920 - 1940 - could be either 1940 - present probably lacquer There are some modern finishes such as water-borne, conversion and UV finishes, but they are relatively new and relatively rare in non-contract furniture. As finishes degrade, they become less moisture resistant, so I would not rule out the finish just being old lacquer, or it could be shellac that displays similar propensities as it ages. Before you embark on any of the following, try out your products and procedures on an obscure spot such as the underside of the table or pedestal in a hidden spot. Quick Fix: You may buy some time by rubbing out the top with a cloth made for removing moisture. The same product is also available in a yellow and black package but branded Jasco. One or two cloths and about an hour's time will do your whole table and a couple of leaves. A more durable approach, assuming you've ruled out Pledge, is to do a thorough cleaning. First use Dawn and water to get off any residual water-soluble soiling. Then wipe with mineral spirits to get off any non-polar residues (waxes, grease, mineral (AKA lemon) oil furniture polishes, etc.) Let dry. If you have some blushing because of the water cleaning, you'll have to back up to Quick Fix to remove the blush. These cloths will also ameliorate the silicone damage to some degree. If you use the cloths, re-clean afterwards with mineral spirits as they contain a rubbing oil. If desired, at this point, you can do a light sanding with P400 sandpaper or Scotch-Brite pads. Just enough to dull the finish Don't use steel wool as it can leave metal shards that will dwell in your new finish. You can then brush on some brushing lacquer such as Deft Clear Wood Finish or Watco Lacquer. Be sure it's a brushing lacquer as most lacquers are meant to be sprayed and will dry way too fast to brush on. You may want to apply a second coat of lacquer after the first has dried. You can spend some time trying to determine the finish that's on there, but the lacquer will bond with either shellac or lacquer assuming it's clean and dry....See MoreDurable Kitchen Table
Comments (1)there are many small sized operations out there making custom farm tables. solid wood. great craftsmanship and the price is not far out. this is the place i plan to get my table from: http://madisontableworks.com/ Here is a link that might be useful: my blog/not related to this post...See MoreDurability of Blu Dot strut table? (@bbstx & anyone else?)
Comments (1)I have the medium table in watermelon that I use as a desk in my home office. I love the finish...I do not baby it and it has held up well over the last 5 months. Yes, there are some very light scratches but water marks are not a problem. No coaster needed with the lacquer like finish. One word of caution, although I doubt anyone but me would do this, when building it...I mixed up screws and used a long one to screw the top on...it went through the top! Thankfully it's in the corner and as its a desk I've put a lamp over it. PS blu dot has a 20% off sale every year....I bought my desk this fall during their sale. I'd be happy to post pics of the wear and tear of the top of you'd like....See Morecutiehouse
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