Well, you could turn the water back on now that it's not raining and see if the leak starts up again..

We had our whole house re floored in LVP In June 2021. Within a few months a portion of the kitchen started bubbling up and splitting at the seems. The flooring guy originally came and said that he believed it was sun damage coming from our glass sliding door. We ended up replacing the door with uv protection glass and the flooring guy replaced the whole kitchen floor with a moisture barrier paper underneath. During the demo they said there was possible moisture on the floor. We had a plumber out and he determined we did not have a leak. Just a few months later it started to happen again in a different area of the kitchen. When they installed the lvp originally they went right over tile, so this time he took up the tile as well so we could see what was happening. There was no obvious water or leak. We then had all our pipes looked at. Our drain pipes scooped. Inside and outside, pool, etc. Spent a ton of $ on tests. There was no leak to be found. We think we must have a foundation slab that has a high moisture content or the soil below has a lot of moisture? That’s all we could come up with. This time for the 3rd installation they put down a moisture barrier epoxy, a wood plank sub floor, and glued the lvp down to that. It made it a year after that, but we have the same problem happening again. So they have replaced the flooring in the kitchen 3 times in less than 3 years and it needs to be replaced again now. We had the manufacturer out and they of course blamed the installation. It is mind boggling. We have had so many plumbers, and flooring companies out and no one has ever agreed on what the problem is. So, I have to replace the kitchen floors again and this time need to do something other than the LVP that matches the rest of the house. I have heard about epoxy/ painted concrete flooring and thought that might flow better than tile. Do you have a knowledge as to if it would hold up to moisture fumes as that is our best guess as to the moisture problem we have? Tile is the other option and that is what was originally in the house and there didn’t seem to be any issues with tile. any ideas?

I'd like to know how your brother fixed it too. I hope you took pictures or had an outside party witness anything that was found. I'm not sure what "pulling on" something means and that could be hard to prove. I think it's odd to favor a previous issue over a faulty install or dw in that the problem occurred or became apparent to the HO only after the new machine was installed. They were unaware of any leaks and the installer said and documented absolutely nothing. Now he claims there was an existing problem. So what idjut would simply install a new dishwasher over soggy flooring in need of repair or dry-out, without raising the issue of a leak with the HO first. I think that is negligent, irresponsible and wreckless on his part. If there was an active leak prior to install, why didn't he report it? I would think it would be SOP for an installer to run the machine to make sure it isn't leaking before leaving the premises, in order to check their work and that the machine was running properly. I wonder if LL had any discussions at all with the installer while he was there.

With all the talk about weatherstripping, here and elsewhere, I don't understand why there isn't more mention of the interlocking kind. It's original equipment on my 1913 windows and have heard mention of it here, google it successfully and it is the best thing I've ever seen or heard of. It's exactly what it says - interlocking. There's a folded piece of thin metal (zinc?) nailed along the length of each side of each sash and the stops. The top and bottom sashes interlock and slide up and down inside the strip on the stop. There is also interlock on the meeting rails and at top and bottom where a folded strip actually fits into a metal lined slot on the top/bottom of the sash. There's no way wind can penetrate. I don't know why it's so hard to find photos rather than drawings of them but if I ever get back to restoring windows I'll try to remember to make a point of posting a photo here. I have ancient triple track storms on most windows - I've only been able to find an old storm for one of my 28-30 windows (don't remember if I included the two attic windows in the original count) and no clue when they can be replaced. How old are they? How long does it take for aluminum to rust? They are heavy and tight, though and the combination produces no frost, no condensation, no air movement. I visited a neighbor who had just had "top of the line" replacements installed and could feel cold and plenty of air penetration (an honest to pete breeze.) I tried not to be too visibly smug but it redoubled my commitment to my old windows. Here is a link that might be useful: the best illustration I found