Snip them off

You can cut the pups if you wish. Then again, if mom dies, then you may loose any future generations. Even though more than likely a pup will emerge from a plant that no longer lives from the corm. Usually, its best to keep one daughter and one granddaughter. The rest can be cut to soil level. The pups can also be cut away using some of the mother corm and planted in a new pot. Letting the pups gain a height of at least a foot before detaching from the mother if you desire to save the pups and let connie have them. LOL!!! If mother has stopped growing, and the babies are growing, then cutting the babies will not spur mom to start growing. Bringing the plant indoors, and having 12 hours of sunlight has caused mom to kinda take a nap if you would. If you cut the babies, she will just expense more energy trying to make more pups. A banana plant has one season(8 to 10 months) to not only grow at lightening speed, they must spend huge amounts of energy growing fruit, and making pups for the next season. The bananas have no idea that we humans are trying to save mom for the next year when we set them outside. If mom knew this, she would not bother making babies all the time. Mama Banana is thinking I must hurry up and make babies and fruit so I can die.

Bryophyllum tubiflorum - also known as the Chandelier plant is quite the weed. It is being discussed in another recent post "Teardrop Plant - Real Name". If you put it in the ground, put it where nothing else grows. It is a weed. It blooms coral-red drooping bell shaped flowers if grown right. If it is leggy, it is probably not getting enough sum. It likes full sun. The little babies on the tips are exactly that. Wherever they drop, they grow, and grow, and grow, and ...you get the point. Even if in a pot, keep it AWAY from everything else. One of those leaves dropping in another pot will quickly grow and choke the other plant out. Once a stem flowers, it has completed its life cycle and will die. But trust me, all the little leaves and seeds that fall will flourish in the near future. It is like most succulents, well draining soil, good sunlight, water when soil is dry.

Those will set bloom their 2nd year. I've noticed that mine will kind of 'slump' their older leaves and begin elongating their stem very quickly with new leaves being smaller and spaced farther apart in the month before they produce their bloom stalks. In full sun, the leaves are pale in comparison to partial shade but I've found them to do just fine in southern, eastern and western facing windows that aren't obscured by tree canopies. Yours looks rather mature, so a bloom period is possible. Mine began their bloom cycle in December, but I'm in central Texas and everything begins blooming earlier here. If you do choose to move it outside to full sun, I would do so with gradually since the leaves tend to burn and scar with sudden full sun. Moving it to a sunnier window shouldn't need such precaution. In case it is thinking about blooming- the blooms are long lasting and a showy orange-pink, bell-shaped and in a 4-6" umbrella configuration. After bloom, the plant will die but will provide plenty of plantlets on the bloom stalk after the flowers fade. Just wait until the plantlets begin producing roots (left to their devices on a dead stem without any aid, their roots can reach up to 2" long) and then plant where you wish. These aren't high maintenance whatsoever. I don't see any plantlets along the leaf borders of your plant (which mine produce ungodly numbers of), but any of those would plant up just fine, too. They don't tolerate freezing- the only issue with planting in the ground- but grow much more impressively. So depending on whereabouts you are, you may do especially well to pop them in the yard in partial to full sun if you have the space. If you're in a zone with reliable freezes, you'd do just fine by cutting them at ground level (or a manageable height- Latinlady is so right about 6'+) about a month before freeze and potting them up for winter storage indoors or in a protected but brightly lit area. They root especially easily and I've learned to not bother allowing the cut end to callous over before potting. Just remove some of the leaves along the stem and push into soil as deep as necessary to get it to keep itself upright without assistance. Place planting in partial shade. I wait 3-4 days to water and then only once, lightly, during the winter before storage. (Again, as caveat, I'm in central Texas, and environmental/ weather conditions are one of the most important factors). Good luck! I hope you're about to experience the blooms. I keep these specifically for the long bloom cycle. Mine began blooming in early December and are still blooming from the same bloom stalks and are sending out additional bloom stalks along the stem. It'll probably be May before it's done with the show.