Chocolate mint sounds heavenly! I'm a sucker for chocolate, have a huge sweet tooth, and that's what makes dieting so difficult for me! I just love bakery and chocolate... preferably chocolate bakery! I usually grow some regular mint and also spearmint in the garden, along with oregano, basil, thyme, sage, cilantro, parsley and chives. The herbs are mixed in with the perennials, and the mint usually takes over and requires a drastic cutting back in summer! This spring, I have to dig out some of the oregano... it's overtaking the dianthus and coreopsis, and starting to get in the way of the garage door! Some herbs are just a tad bit invasive! Good zucchini bread is a great trade off for tolerating a few plants and bulbs! You have lucky roommates! They not only get to enjoy your baking... they also get to enjoy your flowers! I've heard that species tulips are fabulous for forcing... I may try some next year. I also want to try forcing Lily-Of-The-Valley... now, that would be a wonderful mid-winter pick-me-up with that heavenly scent! This is my first year forcing any bulb, and I've got a nice pot of hyacinths getting bigger every day, just begging to bloom and spread that lovely perfume! Without my indoor garden, I'd go winter wacky!

"Registration" with a formal club means nothing if the dog is the product of forced in-breeding from malnourished, caged "breeders." I'd much rather have a mixed dog with good health, an active mind, and good genetics, that came from and properly cared for sires and dams of any breed, with no "papers" at all, than an in-breed creature prone to all sorts of genetic problems. Harry and Sam are "registered" with a German hunting organization; their breed is not recognized by the AKC or any other American organization. Harry and Sam have no inbreeding going back 10 generations. The "pedigree" is nothing more than a list of the parents and ancestors to show who is related to who, and that is very helping in determining if there is any in-breeding and all the problems it can cause. And don't let people feed you the "line breeding" bull puckey, either. Line breeding is in-breeding. In order for a Deutsch Drahthaar to be "registered," it has to born from "registered" DDs that have successfully passed four very involved and strick hunting tests. These are real world, real conditions hunting covering tracking, pointing, retrieving, blind retrieving and blood kills. They cover birds, small game, and large game. There are no planted/disabled/caged prey in enclosed fields; these are real hunts covering hundreds of acres of land, lakes, etc. Before breeding, the parents have to be certified free of hip dysplasia and a blood disorder. They have to produce certain scores in each of the field tests, and be between certain age ranges...I believe it's age 3-9. They have to be in top condition and perfect health. They can have only three litters in their lifetime and there must be two years between each litter. The pups, tattooed at birth to ascertain each puppy matches its papers, can only be sold to active, licensed hunters with the proper time and facilities to keep, train, and test these dogs. These are not kennel dogs. These are intelligent pets that hunt. We were interviewed and screened before we were considered for "adopting" Harry. We got Sam from the same breeder. The few DD breeders there are lose money on each liter; there is no breeding for profit. As I said, if I was getting a dog, it would be a wonderful pound puppy. DH wanted a versatile hunting dog, and was willing to meet the conditions and criteria for having, training, and working one. We have two, and they are the joys of our life. They are pampered pets first, and DDs second. I wish all breed organizations were as tough and dedicated with their breeders as the DD is.

The discussions are great and I appreciate all who've chimmed in, it's interesting to read everyone's thoughts on this. Morgne you brought memories back of my youth. My Grandparents had a summer cottage on Lake Ontario outside Rochester for alomst 60yrs. I haven't a clue when it was even built but I'm pretty sure they didn't build it and bought it already constructed. They did add on when I was a young teenager, putting in a bathroom and making the outhouse a storage shed:) I can't remember anything about a prior shower either, now that you made me think about it, I'm going to ask my Dad. Anyhow, from my memory, there was the front room that faced the lake, the kitchen and a narrow bedroom, they added on the living room aka Grandparents bedroom. Weekends brought family and friends to the cottage and my Grandmother would cook up a storm, people brought dishes and Gramps would usually be grilling outside. To this day I haven't had a better hotdog than my Grandfather would make on that grill built outside. Anyhow, no dishwasher, no disposal-after meals, no matter who was there or the day of time it was, one person would be washing, one drying and one putting things away. If more people, they'd be helping clear the table, putting leftovers away, sweeping, etc. Others could be sitting at the table talking. The kitchen was the biggest room in that little place. I wish I had pictures I could post, but I have very fond memories of those times, and the people in my life who've passed away. I wonder what it would have been like if there had been a dishwasher in that cottage back when. For me, the dw isn't about the money, it's trying to see how it would fit in to the scheme of things. As I said prior, the cabinets are original to the 1960s built home, and in great condition. I just can't see pulling out wood cabinets for new (crappy) if I can stain or paint them and update everything else so where it looks good and is functional. If it means no dw, I can handle that. If I have to get new cabinets (there are worse things in the world!) I'll definitely configure the kitchen for a dw. The cabinets as they are now, were built on site it seems. They are all one piece, so I also have to take in to account that if I cut in to cabinets it may possibly weaken the cabinets. Need someone professional to give me an expert opion. I wish they'd been in pieces, at least then I could possibly move things around. If I can't install a dw it wouldn't be the end of the world. I can try and look on the bright side of it. The hundreds of dollars I'd have to pay for the dw, the $ for installation and new hook ups, the cost for possible repairs in the future, the cost to run it, I wouldn't have to put out money for. If I live there for 8-10yrs, the money I'd save by getting a dw I'd probably break even with the savings for not getting one. Just a thought. Would I rather have a dw than not, yes. It's not that I enjoy doing dishes by hand, but I really don't mind it when it's just the two of us. When we have people over we use at least 3 dishes per person, not including serving pieces and it adds up and then I can't wait to use the dw. But would it kill me not to have one? No, not at all, generations before me didn't have it and they lived a long and happy life. Many don't have one now for one reason or another and do just fine without it. It makes things easier at times. We are not fancy people and I don't want OR need a luxurious kitchen, I can't see spending a ton of money on a kitchen, not that I have a ton to spend, but I want function and nice looking, I don't need to have an impressive kitchen, I don't try to impress anyone. I'm not a conformist, I don't feel the need to have the latest and greatest just because everyone else has it or is doing it. But that's a whole other thread I can get into. Everyone talks about granite, gotta have it, it's the latest rage, etc. etc. I actually like the formica I have in my kitchen and bathrooms and what's come out over the years since I've remodeled my current kitchen gives more options. Not that I'm against granite, but I won't buy it unless I really like it and the way it looks with whatever I pick, I just won't go with something because it's the latest, greatest and most popular. I've never felt the need to conform to the latest trends, I do what I find is most comfortable. I found this interesting article at the link below: http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/home/appliances/dishwashers.html DISHWASHERS Did you know that you can expect to keep your new dishwasher for 11 years? That's a lot of washing cycles and hot water, Today's dishwashers need water hot enough to melt dishwasher soap and clean greasy dishes - at least 140 degrees. By purchasing a dishwasher with a booster heater, you can set your home's water heater at 120 degrees, and still allow your dishwasher to operate correctly. According to research, a load of dishes cleaned in a dishwasher requires 37 percent less water than washing dishes by hand. If you fill the wash and rinse basins of your sink instead of just letting the water run, however, you will use half as much water as the normal dishwasher load. As much as 80 percent of the energy your dishwasher uses goes to heat water. Remember-by saving water, you're also saving the energy used to pump it, treat it, heat it in your home, and clean it up afterwards in your city's waste water facility. Up to 50 percent of a typical city's energy bill goes to supplying water and cleaning it after use! Return to Top Buying Smart Appliances have two price tags - one is the purchase price, and the other is paid out month after month, year after year, in the form of your utility bills. That second, on-going price tag is why it's so important to consider the operating costs as well as the purchase price when buying a dishwasher. Fortunately, there are several tools available to help you. Dishwashers have an EnergyGuide label that estimates how much electricity, in kilowatt-hours (kWh), is needed each year to run the appliance and to heat water, based on the yearly cost of gas or electric water heating. Ratings are based on washing six loads a week using the normal settings. If you plan to use other setting options, your energy use can vary substantially. Look for features like "energy-saving" and "short-wash" cycles. Using more efficient operating cycles helps you use less water and save energy. Choose a dishwasher that gives you heat-drying and air-drying options. Heat-drying elements use considerable energy; air-drying options use very little. Dishwashers are classified as compact capacity and standard capacity. Compact models use less energy, but they also hold fewer dishes. Having to run a compact dishwasher several times to clean your family's dishes will result in greater energy use. Before you go shopping, explore the Energy Star® dishwashers for those with the best efficiency features. These feature improved technology, energy efficient motors, and other advanced technology such as sensors that determine the length of the washing cycle. They also save energy by using less hot water to clean, and they feature the built-in water temperature boosters we mentioned. To qualify as an Energy Star� dishwasher, the appliance must exceed minimum federal standards by at least 13 percent. Return to Top It's Your Money Avoid using the "rinse hold" setting on your dishwasher. "Rinse hold" uses three to seven gallons of hot water for each use, and heating water takes extra energy. Never use "rinse hold" for just a few dirty dishes. Try to wash only full loads-the savings will surprise you. Use short cycles for everything but the dirtiest dishes. Short cycles use less energy and work just as well. If your dishwasher has an air-dry setting, choose it instead of the heat-dry setting. You will cut your dishwasher's energy use from 15 percent to 50 percent. If there's no air-dry setting, turn the dishwasher off after its final rinse and open the door. The dishes will dry without using any extra electricity. If you rinse dishes before loading them, use cold water. Don't waste water by letting it run continuously, either. Install your dishwasher away from your refrigerator. The dishwasher's heat and moisture make the refrigerator work harder. If you have to put them next to each other, place a sheet of foam insulation between them. Return to Top Dishwasher Tips According to researchers, a load of dishes cleaned in a dishwasher requires 37 percent less water than washing dishes by hand. However, if you fill the wash and rinse basins instead of letting the water run, you'll use half as much water as a dishwasher would. 80 percent of the energy your dishwasher uses is for heating water. Remember-by saving water, you're also helping your city's wastewater facility save on the energy used to pump it, treat it, and clean it. Up to 50 percent of a typical city's energy bill goes to supplying water and cleaning it after use! When you buy a dishwasher (also known as a dish storage device!), select one with a booster heater that raises incoming water to 140� F or higher. The higher temperature melts dishwasher soap and cleans those greasy dishes. Booster heating allows you to save energy by setting your home water heater to 120� F. Look for an energy efficient dishwasher that features air or overnight dry settings. Using these features can save up to 10 percent of your dishwashing energy costs. Avoid using the "rinse hold" setting on your dishwasher. This feature uses 3 to 7 more gallons of hot water for each use. Never use "rinse hold" for just a few dirty dishes. Instead consider the old-fashioned hand wash/rinse basin option. Use short wash cycles for everything but the dirtiest dishes. They use less energy and work just as well. If your dishwasher has an air-dry setting, choose it instead of heat-drying. You'll cut your dishwasher's energy use 15 to 50 percent. If there's no air-dry setting, turn the dishwasher off after its final rinse and open the door. The dishes will dry slowly, but without using any extra electricity! Many newer dishwashers do not require you to rinse dishes off before loading. If you prefer to pre-rinse use cold water on your dishes before loading them-but don't waste water by letting it run continuously. If you have a choice, install your dishwasher away from your refrigerator. The dishwasher's heat and moisture increase your refrigerator's energy consumption. If you have to put them next to each other, place a sheet of foam insulation between them. ****************** Keep those opinions coming. For those without a dw, would love to know how you have found it best to tackle this chore without using a lot of water. I found a piece to put on to the existing faucet that stops the flow of water to a trickle and just the push of a lever allows it to fully flow again so to lessen the water waste. When I do the kitchen over and replace the faucet I'd like to find one built in and will have to search to see if it even exists on a faucet as I don't think the piece I found would ever fit on a more decorative faucet. Does anyone know of a faucet that has this feature? Again, thanks to all who've chimed in about this, would love to read more opinions, thoughts and ideas!!!

I have difficulty understanding why Bud Wi would think we who live in NJ are misinformed about these things, but to put his/her mind at ease, this is from the State of NJ web site: "The U. S. Department of State, which has the authority to issue passports, will no longer accept any birth certificate issued by the Jersey City/Hudson County Office of Vital Statistics which contains the raised seal from Hudson County "If you are applying for a passport, you are required to obtain a new certified copy of your birth certificate from the State Bureau of Vital Statistics and Registration. "Effective January 1, 2007 the Motor Vehicle Commission (MVC) will require that all individuals whose birth occurred prior to 1965 and whose birth certificate was issued by the Jersey City/Hudson County Office of Vital Statistics obtain a State issued certified copy of their birth certificate to conduct business with the MVC." Obtaining a state-issued b/c requires a in-person trip to the state capital or a 6-8 week mail process, which could put a crimp in your plans if you are applying for a passport for an up-coming trip. Living in NJ is not for the faint of heart. So, Bud, would you like a pretzel with that grain of salt?