Burns can only be sanded out. With a veneer like that, they may be all the way through it. Use a dual action sander to keep from sanding divots into it and give it a go. The worst that can happen is that the burns do go all the way through. That would be an opportunity to cut the veneer out and maybe do a decorative inlay with a different veneer, or learn how to do a patch.

sarschlos: I remember your successful thread about your buffet and even noted down the steps, but you are right that I did not realize the importance of doing the buffing with the RAF--not beforehand. This has definitely been a learning experience which I intended it to be when I purchased these tables. I wanted to try on something else before starting on the DR chairs/table, though I've now come to realize this is a much more complicated project than I anticipate to DR set to be. I do think that there was no way I could escape needing to strip and refinish these tables--as there were different problems with each one. Seems the other table has fisheye from prior Pledge contamination and bobsmyuncle over on the woodworking forum recommends stripping that as well. Both looked to have a lot of lacquer/shellac that was probably incorrectly applied sometime in the past which led to these problems--and would also not allow the RAF to penetrate much, though I do notice improved results using the Murphy's Oil soap/RAF on the table legs (left table is the one that I used the RAF, right is not done yet): Even before refinishing, the stripped table looks so much better than either of the two tables before: Now I just need to figure out best way to refinish. Bobsmyuncle recommends first putting a couple of light coats of shellac to seal in the silicone (Pledge) contamination and the finish it. I'm wondering what type of stain/finish to use or even I need one at all as there still looks to be a lot of color in the wood and I don't want to darken the inlay. If anyone can recommend some specific brands to use, that'd be much appreciated.

I couldn't take good pictures of my tables when this thread started. They and a bunch of other stuff were jammed into the dining room/entry hall due to work in the family room/kitchen/breakfast room area. Here is the dining room table: It is rosewood from a Scandinavian import furniture store in the 70's. There is a matching sideboard not in the picture. It's style is very consistent with our MCM house. We like the pedestal base which keeps out of the way of chair placement. Also, the base doesn't need to move for the table to expand. It has one leaf in this picture. The second leaf expands it to 108" and without leaves it goes down to 70". The very modern simple thin legs on the chairs have been a problem. If my DH wasn't so skilled at woodworking repairs, they would be long gone - I think each chair has had at least one repair. So while we really like this, I'd look for something more sturdy if replacing it. Here is our breakfast room table (used for most meals): The chairs aren't as consistent with our contemporary style, but the table and chairs are very sturdy. It is oak. We bought it partly because the chairs are very comfortable even though they aren't padded which worked well with a growing family and now with grandchildren. This table also has the pedestal base staying out of the way of chair and people legs and the base doesn't need to move for the table to expand. It goes up to 110" with all 4 11" leaves in. In addition, storage for the leaves is built in under the table top. This one could probably be used for 100 years without needing repairs. We bought it from a local furniture store. It was made by Richardson Brothers.

I agree with rwiegand, laquer will wind up with more scratches for a tabletop that gets regular use. This comes from my experience. However, it sounds like you have a high-end table, so perhaps lacquer is appropriate. Is this a period dining table? And, yes, lacquer is easy to repair with fine sandpaper (grit dependent on scratch depth), perhaps 1200 grit and polish. 3M swirl remover would probably work for what you are describing. Pre-catalyzed lacquer offers the same clarity as nitrocellulose lacquer, but more durable. You want to seek a professional if you want to refinish with something like this. Varnishes (post-catalyzed, polyurethane, etc.) are also durable, but are meant more like floor finishes, or a bar finish. I personally don't consider them appropriate for "fine furniture." I would just polish and move on. Good Luck.