In the image it is showing very hard black spots on the floor. Is going to be very tough to remove it. Anyways first of all put some acid drops on it and leave it for 30 minutes. Then wash it with soap or other cleaner.

I had a bathroom project a while ago, I took up the laminate and put down tile. After the laminate came up, the whole floor was covered with the glue they use when laying it, it was like hard plastic. I had at the time researched some ways/products to use and came up with KRUD KUTTER, I know you can get it at either Home D or Lowes and I think you can even now get it at Wally world. I used it full strength, poured it on, left it (dont remember how long) came back with a putty knife and it was all gooey and soft, came right up.. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes. another example of what I've used it for. I had a perpetual haze on my laminate wood floors (most likely from a build up of cleaning products etc. caught one cleaning lady using mop and glow on it, ugh) anyway, it would never stay shiny and clean looking. I had tried several things and finally tried the KK, again, full stength but I didn't leave it very long. came back with a plastic spatula/turner and literally scarped off a yellow film. It did not appear to hurt my floors, and the haze was forever gone, (now I only use vinegar and water). Might be worth a try? Well, I dont know if it can hurt to try it, Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with this product and have no information on how it might work or affect your floors :) I think it's a great product with many uses and just thought I'd mention it.

thanks all. --probably thought I'd gone away, taking so long to answer. It just seems one "challenge" follows another. The time goes by and you try to hold things together or repair things including your body and sometimes, things just keep coming. Hopefully, I'm forgive for being long time in answering. It's been in & out of docs. for me and tonight, wife goes to hospital. I managed to get a small, very small, strip piece of the paneling off, intact. I used a blow dryer to heat it. The adhesive cement is very, very strong. the blow dryer took a long time to heat the wood--I thought it was going to scorch , before the paneling came loose, but I finally got it. That 4"x4' section took over an hour of work! There does seem to be though a magic temperature, if I can get up to it, the adhesive softens enough to let me hammer a putty knife between it and the wood, other wise--no go. the putty knife won't cut it and the piano wire I tried to use, broke. I hoped that was the piece that would give me access to what I needed to work on, but no. I'll have to remove at least, maybe two, of the full 4x8 sheets. If I destroy this Walnut, there will be no way to replace it. And I do not want to have to figure out some other way to refinish the basement--I guess I could glue sheet rock to the walls, if I glue enough shims in first. I just hope I can get the panels down. You'd think that 30+ year old glue after being so old and going through freezes and thaws would be brittle and give way, but it sure doesn't. Probably the easiest way is to pry the furring strips from the walls and try to put them back up? Because of the unevenness of the concrete walls the strips are glued on both horizontal and vertical. And to get them off, I'll have to take down the entire wall! -- ouch! Is that the only way? I did such a great job putting this stuff up, I can't even see the finishing nails I used to make certain the panels stayed attached to the strips while the glue set. Then of course, I dabbed a bit of paint, the same color of the dark, vertical seams they are in, on the nail head. they are virtually invisible. To find them, I hope a magnet will work. If I pull off the furring strips, they won't be a problem. If I try to take off the paneling, I'm not certain if I have enough room to drive them through the panels before they hit the concrete. What a job. In removing the one little piece of paneling, I learned that I'm going to have to pull an entire corner of the ceiling tile down, as well. It just gets worse and worse...or maybe I should look at it as an exciting challenge? Let's see if I can do it? --yeah, right :( Instead of using a hair-dryer to try to heat the wood, what about trying an electric iron? Think I could do that without scorching the paneling? If so, how high of heat would you set it to and what would be good to put between the bottom of the hot iron and the paneling? --I don't think laying an iron, directly on the walnut, would be very good for it. Or should I just give up and try to separate the furring strips from the wall, leaving the paneling attached. --What a nightmare it was putting those up--absolutely nothing was plumb, level. It took hours and hours to get them level and plumb. Maybe there's an expert way to get these down--it'll take at least 4 people to take a wall all in one piece, especially to not cause damage to any of the panels. Then, how do I get it back up? Is it time to throw the walnut away and put up sheet rock? Bob

Here's a pro tip that won't make that into a major re-finishing chore. What I would do is suggest you go to the craft store like a Micheal's and get a tube of artist oil color Burnt Umber. Be sure to get the oil-based, not the acrylic. Get some medical gloves to wear and a nice cotton rag and apply this thinly to the table. It has an extremely long open time - takes a day to dry - so you can work the burnt umber onto the table and tone it to suit your eye. Get too much on? Simply rag it off. When you get it to where you like it, let it dry at least a day. Now you need to seal the color in, so I would recommend you use a flat clear spray lacquer you can buy in a can. Once you are done spraying, use 0000 grade steel wool and rub it out lightly with the grain. I think you'll like the result. Cost of materials is under $ 20 for all. - Duane Collie