Fill with DAP cedar tub and tile sealant. Bill

I had someone flatten the concrete floor, then installed the laminate over it. The T-molding worked fine on one transition to tile (on one end of the room), but on the other end, the transition to tile is not even. The transition is about 65 inches wide. One one side the laminate is 1/4 inch higher than the tile, on the other end of the transition, the laminate is a little over 3/8 of an inch higher. I have an Armstrong multi-purpose molding, but it seems to be made for an even transition with 1/2 inch height difference. Any suggestions on how should I finish this transition? Thanks!

I hope everything works out to your satisfaction. I cringe when I see that transition. I also had flooring installed to match existing hardwood, both of which come off a higher kitchen floor. When they installed my transition thresholds, they were 1 1/4 high with no slope! When I said that was unacceptable, he said that looked the best with the "massive height difference" and ugly tile edge. No way can that be code. Meanwhile there is a perfectly acceptable reducing threshold right across from his installed by somebody else. Thank goodness you have someone who will work with you for such a big job. I just got sick of talking about it. I was able to find a 3/4 reducer, cut it to fit with a small lip over the tile. If the edge is not perfect I'll run some grout. The poly is drying on it to match floor. Installing them tomorrow.

I did both. I was taught by an installer how to flush cut the flooring to butt up against the tile, which did have an edge strip, with a 1/16th (I think, it’s been almost 2 years) gap and silicone caulk. I hated it because the flooring is matte and I couldn’t find a caulk that wasn’t shiny so it left an obvious shiny line between the tile and the laminate flooring. I replaced it with a transition strip. I do remember messing with the strip to making it as flush as possible between the two different floorings, I think we had to modify the metal piece inside or route one side deeper. keep in mind all of this was DIY and with proper planning by a pro installer the different floor levels are taken into account. I changed my mind and decided to tile the powder room when the flooring was already in. Also, in this scenario the ends are supposed to be sealed and caulked beneath the transition strip in a powder room application, even if it isn’t “wet,” like with a shower or bathtub. That was so deep in the specifications for the flooring we almost missed it. I did not use a transition strip by the front door. I intended to, just to be cautious since we spanned a greater distance, but I hated how the strip looked. Next to the threshold the caulk is invisible, even though it’s shiny. We were pressed on time and budget because it was a new home without any closet shelves, garage storage, or landscaping. The idea of replacing the carpet that was falling apart (after less than a year) with more of the same carpet by the builder was discouraging to me, so we really couldn’t do anything differently. But in a more predictable world, if I could have wrangled a couple thousand more, I have done a simple, not engineered, hardwood and installed it ourselves. The laminate has not had any issues at all as far as buckling or drifting. It’s on our main floor and the only place with an issue is where my kids drop ice cubes on the floor in the same spot and don’t pick them up. There isn’t any swelling or peeling but there is a thin line where you can see the composite is a different color. This is not in an area with a long span. The LVP with equivalent numbers of pieces were 2-3 times as expensive.