In most localities the health codes require that any room equiped with a watercloset MUST HAVE a sink for washing your hands. If the floor of your basement is lower than the gravity flow house drains you will need a sewage ejection pump to lift the discharge up to the drain line. There are small self-contained sewage ejectors that will sit on the floor and can be equiped with a conventional toilet as well as permitting the discharge from a sink however the plumbing codes are very restrictive in how to install a sewage ejection pump system. 1. The International Residential Code requires that we compute the load at 1.5DFU's for each 1GPM from the pump. Minimum pump size is 14.2gpm so the minimum DFU load is 1.5DFU x 14.2gpm = 21.3DFU's for the pump. This value must then be added to the existing fixture load on the drain line to determine the required size of drain line. Under the IRC a 3" horizontal branch line is limited to a maximum of 20DFU's therefore even though the discharge line from your pump may be a 1-1/2" or 2" line it may not be connected to a branch line. It must be connected to the house main drain line providing the combined load of the pump and existing load do not exceed the maximum rating of the main drain. (A 3" horizontal main drain with a 1/4" per foot pitch is limited to 42DFU's. The sewage ejector must also be equiped with a dedicated vent through the roof which may not be combined with any other vents in the structure. There are also a number of requirements on how the discharge line must be connected to the drain line. While the Uniform Plumbing Code assigns different DFU values to both the fixtures and the piping the end result is the same, the discharge line MUST BE connected to the house main drain line, not a branch unless that branch is at least a 4" line.

Do a quick search in the upper search bar as I did and there are literally two pages on the same topic.........

are there bedrooms down there as well? if someone will be using the bedroom in the basement, then they will want a decent bathroom to go with it. 6 inches really isn't worth the hassle of taking down or moving a wall. A foot, maybe, 6" ? no. once you put on the wall or tile, you've got maybe 4" total. Maximize the space by choosing a good vanity w/storage, and possibly building a niche into the wall for additional storage. (use the area between the studs as a built in cabinet) using a prefab shower is fine, but pick a decent one as opposed to those flimsy acrylic pieces. you don't say want the resale value is, so i have no way of knowing how much you should invest. You say you bought mid-range, but I don't know what else you need to redo. anything under a 15% profit really isn't worth it. as for fitting it over the existing drains, usually you will need the new drain cover. if the drain needs to come up, there are extensions. I would advise your husband to do some research on how to fit those into an existing bathroom. If he's handy and can build his own slope, mortar bed and waterproof the shower, then he could prob tile it himself. Just depends on how much work you want to do and what the return is on what you choose. by the looks of what you have there currently, you may have some water damage underneath all the mess. Tear out what you can and then determine what you need to do.

Have you considered hiring someone to polish it? They will repair and grind it to be more level. You can have it stained and polished. You could epoxy or paint it too.