This year im going to do canna, vine, canna, vine ect.... I thought with al's mix [ which I will be doing for the first time] being on the light side, and 6ft canna's going down my 200' driveway, I would get blow down. Maybe I wont. I don't think you will get any benefit from Al's mix with Cannas. If anything I think you will get reduced results if you aren't super attentive to fertilizing and watering with cannas. This isn't to take anything away from the idea of an open, well oxygenated mix, it is simply that cannas not only don't require it, but they do not (in my experience) do best in it. It helps to understand that cannas are marginal plants which puts them in a special category. Marginal plants are plants that natively occur either on water borders in soggy soil or in the shallow portion of water bodies and are constantly flooded. Once the tubers sprout they become water sponges and are heavy feeders. The way I grow cannas is to plug up the drainage holes, douse liberally with slow release fertilizer and then flood the container. Only after there is above mix level growth though. Save the open, highly oxygenated, fast draining mix for plants which will appreciate it (of which there are many), cannas are not one of them. Again, I am not trying to undo any learning you have experienced in regards to the role good root oxygenation plays. There are certain plants which are simply well adapted to different conditions and canna are one of them. Once above mix growth appears you can't over water. In fact they are a popular plant in ponds. You also would have a hard time over fertilizing. It is easier to over fert than water (which is impossible), but either one requires serious effort.

BPGreen, it's a sad comment on changing times. Back in the day when I went to university down by the Ontario/NY State border in Niagara Region, us Canucks got lured across the line by "Canadian dollars accepted at par!" Because our dollar was always lower than yours, back then. It's no pleasure for any Canadians with Amurrican friends to see how badly your economy is doing these days. Oh, I'm glad my personal purchasing power is higher. But I'd trade that in a second to see your country in better financial shape. We export more to you than any other country in the world, y'know? And we buy more from you than any other country does. Fact. We matter more to you than China or Japan. Anyway, there's many Canadians hoping your nation will have the sense to fix your broken finances. You folks are in trouble, and you're our friends. I hope your government and your business community smartens up, quickly. Lloyd, will fire off the snailmail to you shortly. God bless you man, you'll help keep starvation off the streets of Toronto this summer. All the best, -Patrick p.s. The "Help Save the Angelstone Garden" appeal continues. Your personal donations of compost are needed. Don't let Patrick go to bed hungry tonight!!

If the origianl question is the forms of daylilies. I copied this directly from the AHS. Daylily blooms have a wide array of different forms. These include: Circular When viewed from the front of the bloom, the flower appears round. Segments tend to be short, wide, and stubby and generally overlap, giving a full appearance. Triangular When viewed from the front of the bloom, the flower segments form a triangle. The sepals generally recurve. Star When viewed from the front of the bloom, the flower segments tend to be long and pointed. There is space between the segments and the shape looks like a three-pointed or six-pointed star. Informal When viewed from the front of the bloom, the flower segments have no definable shape. Segment placement may be irregular, widely-spaced, or floppy. Ruffled When viewed from the front of the bloom, the flower segments have ruffles along the edges. Ruffles take many forms; they may be tightly crimped, laced, knobby, or wavy. Flat When viewed from the side of the bloom, the flowers are perfectly flat except for the concave throat. Recurved When viewed from the side of the bloom, the flower segments flare, but the ends of the segments roll or tuck under. Trumpet When viewed from the side of the bloom, the flower form resembles a true lily. Segments rise from the throat in an upward pattern with little flare. Spider This form has long defied definition, however the segments are much longer than their width. A 1991 ruling places flowers in the spider class if their segments have a length to width ratio of at least 4 to 1 (i.e., 4:1). Length is measured with the segment fully extended. Width measurement is taken as the flower grows naturally. Double This form has more than six segments. Double daylilies, like single daylilies, come in differing forms. For example: The extra segments may appear as a tuft in the middle of the flower. This if often referred to as a "peony-type" double. They may appear as a second layer of segments on top of the normal six, forming two blooms in one or a hose-in-hose effect (like some azaleas). They may appear as irregular or asymmetrical extra petaloids. Here's a link to the AHS And by the way I love daylilies, short, tall, fat or skinny. Tom Here is a link that might be useful: AHS FAQ

pj1881: a little sprinkler water and no fertilizer. Only horse manure as mulch. Mangokush: I hadn't thought about scab, but I did wonder about spider mites. How do I find them and treat them? Just the outer edges of the tree are watered by my sprinkler. I thought it wasn't hitting the tree at all because I fixed the sprinklers last year to go up to, but not hit the tree. Well, I guess the tree has grown and is getting hit on that one side where the big fruit is. Only the very outer 6" of branch are getting hit right now. I know I need to get out there and work on the sprinklers again, but I didn't even know they were hitting until I started really examining the tree to take these pictures. My sprinklers run twice a week for 24 minutes. That's all its getting by way of water. I was wondering if putting manure on the tree while it's got young fruit would make them split. I may have done that. I'll hold off on all manure for now, and fertilizer I guess. I think I bought the tree at Home Depot and I think it had a Pine Island tag on it, but that was 5 years ago, so not sure. MangoDoc: wow, didn't think I'd actually get a mango doc with my post, but that's good! I haven't ever used sulfur because I like to use oil for insects and they can be a really bad combo. I think you are supposed to wait a month between sulfur and oil sprays. I'm trying to stay as close to organic as possible. I'll give the sulfur a shot next winter for sure, and I hadn't thought about checking the PH of my water.