Painting Furniture (and guilt)
cookie8
18 years ago
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beache
18 years agoRelated Discussions
OT: moving, disposing of, and guilt.
Comments (52)I don't have any advice, but just wanted to say, I feel your pain! I can totally relate to what you are saying. We have a very hard time throwing things out too. And not because we pat ourselves on the back either, it is because we just can't! Sometimes I am jealous of those that can. I don't mean something like hoarding...I mean changing something out because we are tired of the old. We have two behemoth tube-style televisions. We do not watch much tv so we will never wear these stupid things out. One of them my DH won in a raffle with a $3 ticket before we were married. They are so annoying, but I just can not, even with great sales and deals, go buy a new one just because I don't like the old ones. None of our furniture (which most of it is previously used) "matches" but apparently it is going to last forever, so I will forever have mismatching furniture. That is the kind of stuff I can't get rid of. I try not to bring too much other clutter into the house, knowing I have a hard time throwing things in the garbage. I even cringe when I have to throw broken toys away, not because I think they aren't garbage, I just think of the space in the landfill a worthless broken toy is going to take and it seems so wasteful. Over the years we have really become way more selective in what the kids can bring into the house too, because of my dislike for things that break easily and have to be thrown out. Dedtired, where do you get stuff that you can put in paint cans to dry them up? Now THOSE I would love to get rid of!...See Morepainting furniture for "dummies"
Comments (4)You'll want to sand any paint drips smooth, so they won't be present in your final paint finish, and give the whole piece a light sand to give the new paint something to adhere to. I love the finish I've gotten from using Benjamin Moore Advance paint. It goes on pretty easily and cures nicely (and relatively quickly). Make sure to pay attention to the direction of your brush strokes. Don't put the paint on super thick, or it won't dry or cure well. If your new finish doesn't seem quite the color you expected, you probably need another coat. I generally assume most projects will take two coats. The paint can will give you instructions on redcoats time. Once you're done, make sure to let the paint cure fully before putting anything on your newly finished furniture. Dry does not mean the paint is firm, so it will dent or stick a bit if you don't let it cure. It's generally a good idea to leave the doors and drawers ajar until the paint is firm and has no tackiness when handled. If you do need to close the drawers fully, wax paper in between can help keep the up cured paint from sticking to itself....See MoreSteps for painting furniture?
Comments (16)Go to any store that carries MinWax line of polyurethane and stains. I used "Classic Black". Home Depot stopped carrying MinWax and now carries Varathane which is a higher end product. I don't know if they have the same opaque black. Lowes and Menards and my local ACE also carry MinWas. The attached photo shows the product as well as a tool I use to assist in cleanup, which is a pain by the way. First off, I use can liners from Harbor Freight so I do not have to clean the paint sprayer can, just empty and throw away. Then, use 3 empty quart jars with lids. Put some clean mineral spirits in the sprayer and spray into one jar. The PVC plumbing elbow is used to guide the spray into the jar--otherwise it goes everywhere. Then do the same with clean mineral spirits into jars 2 and 3, followed by a disassemble and clean of the sprayer. The solids will settle into the bottom of the jar and you can reuse the mineral spirits from dirty to clean. Finally when the project is all done you can discard the mineral spirits at Hazardous Waste day....See MorePainting over old wood stain on furniture
Comments (2)You can't just spray stuff over the top of this and expect that to work, you have got to sand down the old finish somewhat to give the new finish a 'bite" to adhere to. This doesn't mean all-day sanding, but probably 30 minutes worth. Everything needs to be scuffed. The problem is now you have to sand through the primer coats you already applied. Start with 150 grit and finish with 220. Before you put any new topcoat on, you have to clean what the sanding misses, use a tack rag with mineral spirits to do so and scrub a bit with that. The hardest or most time-consuming part of any kind of this project is the Prep, and you skipped over it. For bleed through, a light coat of shellac will take care of that before you apply your chalk paint....See Morecookie8
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