Refinish 20 year old acrylic impregnated floor?
ssharris03
15 years ago
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boxers
15 years agoRelated Discussions
200 year old floor joints need filling
Comments (11)Woods going to expand and contract. But it wont close a 1/2 gap. Ripping a board down will be just fine. When the planks gap out that much first thing i would do is clean the gap as much as possible. Im sure the inside edges are caked with gunk. Clean that well, glue in your wedge pieces, and finish away. Are you refinishing the entire floor? Or just plan on finishing the wedge pieces? Its hard to tell but my guess is the exsisting finish looks like a varnish. With that in mind you cant put your typical polyurethane over varnish or shellac. It doesnt adhere properly and will just flake off. So you can find varnish still and i would use that if youre not up to the task to sand down to bare wood. If you watch This Old House they did a show where they put pieces of rope between the planks. Looked ok. Not a fan personally but its another idea. Being the house is as old as it is you cant really go wrong looks wise. Good luck!...See More50 year old flooring
Comments (32)@Garry Crabbs II - the 3/8" thickness is going to make this tricky. First off, MEASURE the amount of wood ABOVE the tongue. You can find a floor vent and pop it out to view the cross section of the wood. Measure the wood ABOVE the tongue. It MUST BE 3mm (1/8") or MORE to get a SINGLE sand/refinish event completed. The photos show you are not "almost down" to bare wood, you are AT bare wood. That means this floor "missed" it's sand/refinish date by 5-10 years. And we're assuming that is oil based urethane. That was VERY common in the 60's. Nothing special about it. You will need to sand this 3 separate times (each "pass" takes off about 0.5mm of wood which is why you NEED 3mm to start with). You will start with a low grit paper....like 60 grit. You will need a palm sander with the same grit to get into corners and close to walls. Then you will move up to your mid-range grit (80 grit is the next step up from 60). Again cutting in the walls and corners using the palm sander and the same grit level as the big machine). And then your final pass (assuming everything has gone swimmingly) you will finish with the highest grit level (100 grit is the next step when using the 60-80-100 grit system) doing the walls and corners once again with the palm sander. Some guys work with the 60-80-100 grit system. Others prefer the 80-100-120 grit system. Plan on purchasing MULTIPLE discs (assuming you use a drum sander) in each grit level. Some refinishers use 4-5 "papers" per grit level each time they do a floor. That means they use as many as 15 discs/pads for each home! Just be aware of that. You might want to find out which system will leave most of the dark stains that have penetrated the raw wood....and which system leaves the MOST amount of wood on your floor. That is rather important. You don't have a lot of wood to work with so you want to make sure you have something left over that you can live with for the next 20 years. Once the sanding is done, you chose a stain (if this is DIY I suggest you SKIP this stage) and then apply 3 coats of finish over the floor....See Morewhat type floor in a 100 year old house
Comments (34)Engineered is hardwood applied to a good quality plywood. I liive on Cape and engineered is the only way for you to go (in the wood family). I copied this from the Spruce blog; Engineered wood is better than solid hardwood at dealing with moisture. Its plywood base is dimensionally stable, meaning that it warps and flexes less easily upon contact with moisture than solid wood. Fibers in plywood run in cross-wise layers, a far more stable structure than solid wood's parallel fibers. We owned an 1820 half Cape. It came with original wide plank pine floors which were in tough shape. My builder flipped them over and had them refinished. Gorgeous! Next house, same neighborhood, 200 yds from the water. This house was new build and I chose Homerwood engineered hickory in Saddle (refinished, no mess, and no guessing about the color). Gorgeous! 100 yr old cottage sounds so old to someone young, but 1919 is pretty flexible for design, unless you are talking about a distinct/authetic design vintage home. Choose what you like, but that close to the water…go engineered. It won’t cup and you can wet (wrung out) mop it when needed. Use Bona. Our present home, not Historic and came with a pool, I used wood look white porcelain. Gorgeous. Love Newport..my daughter is Navy…Thames for food and shopping, yeah!...See MoreUnrelated ???s refinishing tubs, old drain, window screens, countertop
Comments (11)Thanks. My fabricator has screwed up many times on my quartzite. The island is on crooked. He had to redo the perimeter countertop because he only measured for length. He also had seams that were 1/2" wide when I had told him no seams at all, and 1/4"-3/4" gaps along the back wall. I had two matched slabs set aside, so instead of using the 2nd slab to recut the perimeter counter, he found a cheaper slab that was a different color and had a different texture. He sees nothing wrong with the slab being different. When I asked him last week about fixing the hole where they cut the drywall, he said, "We always adjust the fit that way." He has been in business a long time. He is not going to fix the hole. I never have water there, but my husband has his coffee pot there, so a spill is possible. I just need to figure out how to fix the hole on the inside of the bathroom wall before we install drywall. I know I can caulk it on the kitchen side. Pet screens...I have never heard of that. We live lakefront, so we get tiny bugs that can get through the fiberglass screens. If they are non-metal, do you know what they are made of, or which brand of windows/screens you have? Maybe I can find them. I don't know of any surplus stores, but maybe some have opened in the last few years. We have spent a lot of money on things you can't see in this remodel...beams, complete rewiring of electrical and plumbing, 2 heat/ac units, new stairs, roofs, gutted the great room and kitchen, etc. We also had new siding installed on the house, and turned a huge upstairs room into 2 bedrooms, a bunk room, and a sitting room. Now, we are about out of money, and we have 3.5 baths to remodel, new carpet for bedrooms, and need to refinish a 1400 sf hardwood oak floor. I am good at budgeting, but the $35,000.00 ceiling beam was just one repair that took a chunk out of our budget. Rather important beam so the roof wouldn't collapse!...See Moressharris03
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