Well, our biggest small success most recently wasn't anything we can take credit for. A termite infestation was discovered in our basement, and we were EXTREMELY relieved that the bill was "only" $800. It could have been a whole lot worse, especially as the termite guy found a five-inch-wide termite "superhighway" they had built right up against the outside wall. No wood needed replacing, thank goodness! I have to say I see snidely's point, just as I see grainlady's. Look, it's wonderful that some people get a kick out of being frugal. I salute you; really I do. It's fabulous that you eat healthily and thriftily. More people should. But I don't want to be like you. I am more like snidely, and so is my spouse. We are free-spending and live very well, despite being on what was considered moderate incomes in the extremely expensive San Francisco Bay Area. I am more likely to spend $125 on lunch for the two of us, and I only pick up cans to put them into the recyling cart which the Waste Mgmt Corp. picks up every week - and charges us for whether we fill up the cart or not. We fought our way out of bankruptcy into a comfortable early retirement, and it wasn't easy. So absolutely yes, celebrate those small successes! Especially reducing the credit card debt, which is very difficult. The OP's situation shows the importance of having an emergency fund, and I still vividly remember how difficult it was to even manage a 2-month emergency fund. Funding a 6- or 12-month emergency fund, as is often recommended nowadays, was something I didn't manage until I was in my fifties and close to retiring, LOL. Just as important as celebrating your small financial successes is to remember how wealthy you truly are. If you have family and friends whom you love and who love you in return; if you have reasonably good health and a roof over your head; if you can pay your bills and marvel at the sight of spring flowers...then you are rich, regardless of $$$.

I have a recommendation for whole-house fans, and that is to go with the ones made by Triangle Engineering of Arkansas (made in the USA!). These things move more air than any other brand. As an example: the 36" belt-drive model sold at Lowes & Home Depot moves 6,900 CFM on its highest speed. The 36" one that Triangle makes moves 10,600 CFM. I just put one of these in last week and am so taken with it that I'm evangelizing for Triangle now. These things are much higher quality than the other brands too -- these are made with very heavy-gauge solid welded steel (as opposed to the thin, flimsy metal - often aluminum - that other brands use). They use a very solid motor made by Emerson, the best of the top three motor-making companies (the other two being Fasco and A.O. Smith). They come pre-framed on a wood frame for installation, AND they have sponge-rubber noise-dampening material between the fan and the frame, so they are much quieter than the other brands. Also, Triangle holds a patent on an automatic belt-tensioning system these things use, so you don't have to worry about getting the tension right when you install the fan (or in the years thereafter as the belt loosens up). Also, they come in more sizes than the other companies -- from 24" all the way up to 48" blade diameter (which moves a ridiculously whopping amount of air; no one else makes one that big). They're sold online at Southern Tool amongst other places that ship nationwide, so they're available wherever you live. Also, Triangle re-brands some of these as a private label for Dayton, which is the "store brand" of Grainger - so if you have a Grainger store near you (check your phone book or their website), you can buy one there. I will say this, though - Grainger/Dayton makes their own shutters, and those shutters are much better than the one Triangle makes. Triangle makes great fans, but crappy shutters. Luckily, they're sold separately -- so buy a Triangle fan and Dayton shutters; money can't buy better products. They also re-brand some for a company out in San Francisco called "Fanman" (a/k/a "Delta Breeze"). A word to the wise -- these fans move a lot of air, so make sure to install at least the recommended minimum amount of attic exhaust space (gable vents, soffit vents, roof vents, some combination thereof, whatever works for you) - if you don't have enough, the fan will operate at reduced capacity, and there will be a backpressure which will cause the shutters to rattle when the fan is in operation (any time you hear whole-house fan shutters rattling, you know there isn't enough exhaust space). Oh, and one other thing -- only buy a belt-drive whole-house fan, don't EVER buy a direct-drive model...the direct-drive models are at least five times louder, they sound like standing on an airport runway next to an old prop plane getting ready to take off. Several of the dedicated whole-house fan installing companies have chosen to use Triangle fans; that should tell you something. These companies want satisfied customers, so they use Triangle and only Triangle. Refer to http://www.trianglefans.com/wholehouse.html for more info Here is a link that might be useful: Triangle whole-house fans

Sorry, missed the questions (and the compliments, thanks!) Pleased with the outcome, but that is a job I shall not likely tackle again in this lifetime. Well, maybe wait a few more years and I might change my tune... Pardon the length, I have answered your questions and also point out mistakes I made, so you won't make the same, not worth it ; ) I did this job (all twelve days of it) in a state of total burnout and aching muscles from repainting the entire house, and staining/poly coating stairs/railing that DH had installed after he installed our hardwood floors. House was in total disarray. It's been 2 years I still find things in boxes I didn't know I had. So a job like cabinets in that frame of mind led me to mistakes and shortcuts and I knew better. Weariness clouded my judgment. So if you're doing an overhaul, save the a cabinet job for when it is your sole focus and you've got lots of stamina. First, clean well. Really well. Think of the years of built up oil-based polishes, airborne stuff from cooking, etc. Oils absorb into woods, and a half-hearted wipe with a rag and Dirtex doesn't cut it. My first mistake, should have scrubbed the dickens out of them with Dirtex and #0000 steel wool. Second mistake: I did not scuff sand to get even more gunk off outer surface of wood and prepare for better adhesion of primer/paint. Third mistake: I did not use oil-based primer. I love Bullseye 123, has served me well on all types of jobs. But because of mistakes 1 and 2 above, an oil-based primer probably would have covered my tracks. I have a couple chips here and there where something has bumped the paint, the tiny chips go right down to the old finish. That tells me my primer is not adhering well which tells me my prep was too lame. (I am not in any frame of mind to tackle fixing this at the moment, but will be forced to this year, so plan to turn to Michael for his infinite wisdom if he's willing ;) The reason I know I failed in several areas with prep on the cabs is because the interior room doors pictured above (new and pre-primed) are still pristine. No pin head size chips, nada. bud_wi, my hinges were a nightmare. Somehow, we got The Most Unique Hinges Known To Mankind. I shopped everywhere for replacements, none to be found (even online). I could easily have replaced them with like kind by myself (stick to the existing holes, go easy with the drill so screws don't strip). However, I did not want to remove and replace with a totally new style, which as Michael suggests is best choice (and I agree). The reason I did not switch hinge styles is because it would involve a bit more work and DH's participation. He was equally burned out, and my request to add yet another job would have been met with his favored 'have you lost your mind' look. Now I am married to one of the handiest guys, and he is a perfectionist. Trick is to get him motivated. Because he is also the last great procrastinator. So when he's burned out but says 'I'll get to it next weekend', that means I could be facing months and months of cabinets with no doors. Couldn't bear the thought. So I painted 'em. Mistake number four (I am up to four now, right?). Two years, four months later hinges are flaking (I primed with Bulsseye 123 first) primarily where hinges rub. That really accelerated just in very recent past to where it's noticeable, and will only get worse. I cannot put off addressing this development much longer, as old brass peeking through bright white is not attractive. Oddly enough, back when I was doing this job, someone suggested auto touch up paint. (Comes in a 3" tall bottle ala nail polish.) Unfortunately, I had already painted all but a few hinges when I got that tip. The hinges with auto touch up paint (in a white I picked that closely matched CC) are holding up well. For now. For anyone who needs to remove paint from hinges, I just saw a tip on This Old House: get a cheapy crock pot (not ever meant for food), put water in, turn it on low, let hinges soak for 12 hours (or overnight) and paint will fall off in a big glob. (Not sure if that applies to oil-based.) Whether I go that route and buff them out (I don't like brass) or ask DH for new is a nasty toss up. Replacing our deck is pending this spring, so for new hinges I might as well ask him to hang the moon ;) I left the doors up. I did not paint the insides of the cabinets (good condition = no need). I used a Purdy XL Dale 1 1/2' angle brush (my favorite) for tight nooks, small areas. I applied paint to doors with a 4" foam roller (speedier and better control) and followed up with a final single stroke, top to bottom, with a half-loaded brush (Purdy XL Dale 3" flat). I say half-loaded because fully loaded brush with CC would only create excess paint which then runs everywhere as it seeks it's level. Dry would drag through existing paint leaving a gummy trail. So half loaded pulls out any bubbles from the foam roller, keeps the work surface sufficiently wet but not drowning in paint, and paint will then level well. Learn from my mistakes, so that you do not stand in your kitchen 2 1/2 years from now and see what I am beginning to see.

Thanks folks! I really appreciate your support, kind words, and suggestions through this ordeal. I'm still trying to clear this guy completely out of my system. I still get an odd pang of wanting to call him up and yell at HIM! It'll pass. I'll be sure to file a complaint with the BBB and the Attorney General's office. The letter I wrote to my credit union to dispute the credit card charge (using a c.c. through this reno JUST for this purpose!) will work nicely for these complaints. Ironcook--Interesting thought on his bring his son. He did know DH would be there. Probably knew DH would be p!ssed at the way he treated me. Chris--I expect there will be troubles during this process as I've never had any GC experience. Even if we have to pay the reframing costs, which I'm sure we will, I'd rather do that and be rid of this guy. We're still saving 10's of 1000's of $ with me being the GC. And I was trying to jolly this guy along. It didn't work. If he had been half-way courteous to me I would have tried to work with him. Rhome--Having a security guard makes it sound like I live in a fancy development. I certainly don't. Most of houses are plain 70's builds with little charm, but we are built around a small, private, non-motorized lake. The neighborhood board must have decided decades ago that it was worth paying someone a little salary to monitor the lake and the rest of the parks here to keep non-residents, who don't pay to maintain the facilities, out. Food poisoning has thankfully passed. We had the only other Napoleon dealer (an HVAC) company come to give us an estimate on the same fireplac last night. DH went to meet him as I was not in the mood. Funny, this HVAC guy actually apologized to DH for the way Mr. Jerk treated me!! Can you believe that??!!?