I have used a ventless natural gas fireplace for the past 5 years in our living room. We understand the concerns about these types of units and have taken precautions to protect our health and home. Our 1900 house breaths better than I do! Last year we had an intermittent problem with the fireplace shutting off during use with an audible 'click'. This year the issue has increased and the fireplace will only run for a few minutes before shutting down, pilot included. The pilot re-lights immediately and the burner can be re started but again after a few minutes, click, everything goes out. I purchased and installed a new thermocouple thinking it was going bad but alas, have the same problem. It is almost like a safety feature for over temp that seems to be controlling this.

First of all, there is a 30% tax credit (on parts and labor!) on better-quality inserts right now if you can get them in service (not just paid for) by Dec. 31. I suggest you see if you can get an insert job done; Maybe Uncle Sam will pay for the insert if you cover the labor. Now for your main question about doing it without an insert. I looked into this once and concluded that without an insert, gas log conversions from any type wood burning fireplace are mainly for ambience, not heat. The best I could come up with was, I learned that some RH Petersen logs with GF in the part number are designed to work with doors closed and thus keep the heat in the firebox instead of going up the flue. Maybe we could hear from someone with GF logs. There are also some other brands that advertise "reduced vent" logs, you might ask about those. In both cases I have my doubts about, even if it does produce heat, how much, and is it practical to get it to work with a thermostat.

I live outside of DC and in this area it would start at about $3500-4000, but that would be a very basic burner (standard looking logs, etc.), and would only include a short run of gas line (in the range of 10 feet). Additional gas line installation adds quite a bit to the cost, since the project requires a permit, inspection and a licensed installer. It also make a difference whether its direct vent or vented, since for vented (which use the old chimney) you should have the existing chimney inspected and checked for leaks. The installer should also look at all the gas appliances and the BTU draw to ensure your gas line is large enough to support the additional load from the gas fireplace. You may need to upgrade your line to allow for the additional gas draw. Bruce

Greg here from Hansen Wholesale, where @tigerdunes purchased his ventless logs. I am also the one who has published all of the details at the Hansen Wholesale website regarding the pros and cons and differences between vented and ventless gas logs. Truth is, there are many considerations and we handle each case separately when dealing with our customers. In some cases, ventless makes sense, but in most cases vented gas logs are the best choice. The original thread here is 3 years old, but as I read the entire thread there is some confusion about welding the damper open when installing a direct vent gas log. I think Anapolitan may have confused "Vented" gas logs with a "Direct Vent Insert". There are no "Direct Vent Gas Logs". Direct vent refers to sealed metal box that you insert into the fireplace. There are two ducts that get run up the chimney with a special chimney cap installed at the top. One vent draws outside air down the chimney for combustion while the other is used for exhaust. It is an air tight sealed unit. Because there are 2 ducts, the damper would have to be propped open to feed the ducts up the chimney. Vented gas logs require that the damper is open when they are burning. Some municipalities may require you to weld the damper open when using a vented gas log. The reason vented logs need the damper open is because they burn more like real wood where they intentionally do not completely burn the gas. This creates a wafty yellow flame very much like real wood. It also produces Carbon Monoxide (lethal gas), Carbon Dioxide, Water Vapor and Soot. Hence the reason the damper needs to be open. With the damper open, most of the heat goes up the flue. Because ventless logs burn the gas completely, at least in an ideal situation, the byproducts are Carbon Dioxide and Water Vapor, neither of which present a health issue when used in moderation. Since the damper is closed, 99.99% of the heat produced by burning the gas will come into the room, so ventless gas logs produce a LOT of heat, sometimes too much. The R. H. Peterson ventless gas logs are rated as both vented and ventless. Technically, if they are intended to be used as vented logs the damper must be propped open permanently, but most people ignore that. The best solution to the issue of leaving the damper open all the time is to add a glass door to the fireplace so you can close the doors when the fire is off. Anyways, I have much more detail on our website and in the heads of our gas log experts. Anyone reading this may want to talk to us directly because each case really does need to be handled on an individual basis. Profided by: Greg Tillotson Hansen Wholesale: Gas Logs and Fireplace Doors Feel free to email me directly. If you do, be sure to include some pictures of your fireplace along with the inside dimensions: gregt@hansenwholesale.com P.S. If this comes through all in bold, I tried turning the bold off, but it wouldn't listen.