I put in Forna engineered cork flooring 5 years ago in my kitchen. I chose the interlocking planks because I could not find anyone to install the tiles in the area where I live. Cancork supplied the planks I bought. It was sold as a possible DIY, but I had a remodeler do it anyway. The floors do dent, but it hasn't bothered me at all. It is a busy pattern and the dents are really not ugly. Of course, we have a more rustic style in our kitchen. The thing that bothers ma A LOT, and that I would be careful of is that the cork surface chips off and it's apparently not covered by warranty (although reading the warranty, you wouldn't know that--it's only when you ask that they "interpret" the warranty to exclude the chipping and flaking issue.) These are not gouges, they are chips. We used the very expensive Lobo polyurethane that they recommended and applied it exactly according to directions and it immediately peeled up and hasn't protected the floor like they said it would. Disappointed with Cancork and their product, but I still really love the cork. I like the way it looked, the way it felt--just think this is a poor example of the material.

I just painted my daughter's room two shades. BM Wet Concrete below the white chair rail and BM Dusk til Dawn above the chair rail, and we absolutely love it! Not too girl/femme and perfect for a girl to grow up in. Check them out.

Hi Destruct05, We have been carrying cork in our showroom for over 10 years now. It is one of the most underrated and often overlooked flooring options. The style we carry comes in a click lock system under the brand IpoCork. This is available in a variety of colors and patterns. Since cork is naturally porous it is extremely difficult to dent and surprisingly durable. We have this flooring installed in our office (in fact I am sitting on it as I am writing this). This is one of the only flooring options that work well with rolling office chairs. If you decide to roll the chairs directly over the cork, it will leave some wear pattern over extended use. The good thing about the click system is that they are easily replaceable if a few planks are damaged. If you are concern about environmental issues, most cork is harvested from Portugal Cork Oak trees by removing the bark and leaving the tree intact. It is a rapidly renewable resource making it very sustainable. Hopefully you will give cork a consideration for your next flooring project and please feel free to reach out to us if you have additional questions. Many photos are available in our gallery of past projects if you want to get some design ideas. Andrew - Unique Wood Floors

Ok...From a former cork flooring professional, here is my advice. Loose lay the cork underlayment and then install the floating floor on top. Cork sheets provide less waste and are MUCH easier to install. You lay them down like a blanket and you are done. It is that simple. The 'glue' down is ONLY for a glue-down hardwood sitting on top. We call that a double stick. You do NOT need to get to that level. You have a floating floor. The 'perimeter glue' is for ROLLS of cork. Why? Because the roll always curls. Always. You will 'loose' the last 2-3 curls on the inside of the roll. That is ++ waste of an expensive and highly valuable product. Hence the reason builders prefer the sheets. Do NOT use tape - OF ANY KIND. Tape deteriorates and starts to make a CRINKLING sound. Imagine how annoying that would be. After 6 months your floor starts to make a noise like stepping on crumpled up newspaper! Not fun. Here's what you do: 1. Chose the DIRECTION of the plank for installation (north-south or east-west?) 2. Lay the sheets of cork in the OPPOSITE direction (ie. perpendicular) 2.a This is a good way of keeping long seams from lining up with long seams. You will create a brick pattern = always good building practices. 3. Like your floor, you will stagger the cork underlay joints. Butt the edges together (no tape) and keep going. That means if you start with a full sheet of underlay on your 1st row, you will start the 2ND row with a partial sheet...thus producing a brick-pattern for the underlayment. 4. Lay roughly 1/3 of the room with underlayment and then start installing your flooring. 5. The sheet underlayment can move a snick so you do not want to walk on it too much. Like laying ceramic tile, you work with a small amount of mortar/thinset while you set the tile. Cork underlayment is the same. You lay a little bit of underlayment (enough to 2-3 runs) then lay a little bit of flooring 6. Leave the 1/2" expansion gap at the wall JUST LIKE your cork floor needs. Both the underlayment and the floor need room for movement. This is super simple. Use your spacers at the wall WHILE you install the underlayment. Leave them there while you install the planks. It is that simple. If you float your flooring your cork sheet underlayment is floated as well. That's why this is SUPER simple. Installers love working with sheet cork. It is insanely simple and they still get to charge another $0.25/sf - $0.50/sf to lay it. Yet they hardly need to do a darn thing.