There's a nice long thread in the Kitchens forum about someone who just applied OSMO herself, and others chime in who have had osmo-finished floors for a while -- check it out: Here is a link that might be useful: Show me your OSMO floor

I have only come across this issue once. A floor had area rugs on them so long that the light had bleached the perimeter of the room. Just like yours, it did not sand out. The only solution I can suggest is to find a light/medium stain that would be close to the color of the centers of the rooms and stain the entire floor. IMO, trying to stain the areas different isn't likely to work. For the best result, apply a light coat of water to the entire floor, let it dry then apply the stain. You can add up to 8oz. of the same stain to each gallon of oil-modified polyurethane and apply two coats of tinted poly, abrading lightly between coats. Abrade the second coat and apply a final coat of clear satin oil poly. It would be ideal if you have an area where you can make a sample first. This process should make the center of the room slightly darker and the edges of the room much darker, and address the issue of the Pine possibly being splotchy from the staining process.

So sorry I haven't responded. The contractor was supposed to start demo next week but called on Monday morning and started yesterday. I had to empty out my entire bedroom and closet (also getting the master bath redone). Kitchen demo is next week. Thank you so much for pictures of your kitchen. That is very much the look we are going for. mayflowers- We are putting a small table with 2 chairs in a little eat in area with the chandelier. I am thinking mainly HW and coffee. Here are some pics of the rest of the house. It is a super traditional center hall colonial. I didn't include pics of furniture since it is all getting replaced after the reno. Current kitchen. The pendants will go over the window. The semi flush mount where that track lighting is and the chandelier where the lovely silver fixture is ;). Cabinets and fridge will be in the portion of the room you can't see and the eat in area is under the light and a little to the right.

Ok...here we go. I'm going to guess the "orange" is coming from an OIL BASED polyurethane. Yes. The finish. I'm also going to guess that the stain, BEFORE the coating, was an "honest" attempt at mid-tone brown. But when the OIL BASED poly was applied to the mid-tone brown over wood that LIKES to turn orange, the whole thing turned orange. Sigh. Here's what you need to know: oil based polyurethane TURNS ORANGE as it dries. Sigh. That means it will turn white paper ORANGE just by drying. We call this "ambering". The amount of ambering I am seeing is most likely (ahem...I would bet my eye-teeth on it) from the FINISH...not the stain. So the answer is: get rid of the oil based finish and you get rid of 90% of the orange. Switch to a water based finish and try again. To get PINE (which HATES being stained) to accept a light or medium stain, the flooring professional has to be a WIZARD! It is a tough ask to get pine to take a stain. Usually you have to go DARK to get it to work. Anything less and you get a splotchy mess. Any professional worth their salt would have REQUIRED you to view stain samples (that included a coat of finish) before moving on. To be clear, please let us know the NAME of the finish your professional used...and whether or not you were told it would "amber" (turn orange) as it dried.