I've seen many dogwoods that grow in this manner - co-dominance is not really an issue in a tree that will remain as small as dogwood and develop a non-leadered crown anyway. Personally, other than removing the stakes and ties, I wouldn't touch it. Dogwoods require very little in the way of pruning and often respond to any heading cuts or excessive pruning by producing a mass of shoots at the cuts. Some unjudicious pruning and the tree will rapidly develop a Medusa-like appearance......NOT attractive. I think far too often we are counselled to alter the appearance of trees to some predetermined and arbitrary view of what WE think they should look like rather than allowing the plant to assume its own unique growth habit. For small scale trees like the dogwood and pretty much any shade tree, this emphasis on maintaining a "single leader" is misplaced. These trees are by nature decurrent or do not develop distinct leaders. Any appearance of a leader while very young is typically outgrown as the tree matures. What you have is essentially a low branching system which is not all that uncommon with a whole host of tree species and not by definition a "bad" thing that must be corrected. I find nothing wrong with the appearance of this tree. It is still very juvenile and does have undeveloped look at this time, but hasty and unnecessary pruning is not going to improve on that. What it needs is some age and good care in the meantime. 4 years in the ground is NO time when one is dealing with trees and who knows how large these were when planted? Many newer homes have minuscule specimens planted because that's all the developer or homeowner could afford. Back away from the pruners, 86 the stakes and ties, water well in summer and clear the area around the base to avoid mower/trimmer damage, mulch and just let these poor things be!!

Several things that were covered to a degree. First, the rails (horizontal parts) and the stiles (verticle parts that the hinges and knobs attach to) have the grain running in different directions, as is normal and necessary. So the rails expand across their width while glued to stiles where the grain runs the other way, so unequal expansion = joint cracks. Mitred doors are worse, as the wood shrinks across the width, the gap between the two peices gets bigger at the inside corner. The constant expansion and contraction eventually will affect the joint. They are pretty doors, but they will not hold up like a good old stick and cope door that is properly made. Usually the large companys have well run finishing schedules with step boards to follow. They ought to be able to replace your existing doors and still match the color. It is worth a shot. As to warpage on doors, yes, lay it flat on a known flat surface, pull the knob and lay it on it's back. Now, almost every door company I have ever heard of has a set of standards on warpage, depending on size. A 1/8" warp is usually not considered defective in a 36" long door. Longer doors are more likely to warp, many companies do not guarantee warpage over a certain length. And if these are screwed to the wall out of level or twisted because one side is level and the other isn't, then the door isn't the problem. Get a level and check the front face on both sides. they ought to be level, or at least the same on both sides.

You have to make a decision. You can consider the hallway the entire 55' length of the space, and the rooms the two small areas off that. Or you can consider the hallway the 20' portion between the two spaces. I personally would go for the later. Carpet tiles tend to come in 2'x2' pieces, and an average hallway is only 3' wide. If you put tile in the "hallway" you won't get the dramatic pattern effect, it will just be a single tile wide. With that I would just do carpet tiles for the two separate rooms, I wouldn't worry about using different patterns in them since they are different spaces.

Waynette, Home Depot will be initiating such a data storage system in a few weeks. It always has had the option to store your data if you requested it, however, in the near future, all sales will be recorded by your phone number. I have no problems with BM products other then there high prices. During my 4 decades of contracting, BM was my primary paint company. BM has high prices, as does SW, but at least BM gets high ratings from the national rating companies, something that SW does not always. I always consul those contemplating having work done, to ask the contractor to state exactly which paint he intends to use. DO NOT simply accept SW or BM, but ask specifically what label he intends to use. All the major manufacturers make really good paint, but they also make that infamous "contractor grade" stuff that so many new homes get stuck with. THEN CALL THE PAINT STORE and ask where on the quality scale his paint stands. If he is not using top of the line paint, find another painter. He is looking out for his bottom line, not the quality of your paint job! AT least as far as residential work goes, the price of the paint is only a few percentage points of the total bill. You are paying for labor. Hopefully, honest, quality labor. During my contracting years, I was selling a complete service. The cost of the paint and getting it to your house was part of my service and included in the bid.. Often, a BM color fan would be left with the customer for them to choose colors in advance, or at least get an idea of what they might want to use. Finally, be wary of any painter who asks for money up front. If he doesn't have good credit standing down at the paint store, he is living close to the edge. NEVER make final payment until you are completely satisfied.