Distinguishing decent quality vs. junk in used furniture.

17 years ago

At the suggestion of some of the experts on this board for people in my budget range, I have begun to look into buying used furniture (wood items) in the hope of getting decent quality pieces for less expensive prices.

In particular, I need a dining room set and a guest bedroom set. I'd like average quality for the bedroom set (Thomasville-ish as opposed to Ashley-ish) and somewhat higher than average for the dining room set.

The problem is, many private sellers of used furniture don't know who the manufacturer was and can't find any markings on the furniture. Thus, even the limited knowledge I've picked up on this site about who the quality manufacturers are isn't of much help.

Instead, I have to physically go look at this furniture and determine on the spot whether it's reasonably well made or total junk.

I have no experience doing this and would greatly appreciate any advice as to what steps I should take to determine the general quality of the pieces I'll be looking at (apart from the drawer construction re: dovetail joints).

For the bedroom, I'll be buying a queen sleigh or panel bed, dressers, and nightstands.

For the dining room, I'll be buying a table, chairs, and china cabinet.

I like a traditional mahogany style. Thanks.

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Comments (2)

dcollie
17 years ago
Great question! Unfortunately it would take a book's worth of writing to correctly answer. Can't be done in a few paragraphs here.

I will tell you this: trust your eyes. If it looks good, it probably is decent furniture. The more solid wood used, the better it is (generally speaking).
boogamite
17 years ago
Try moving it around. Do the chairs wobble? Good quality chairs don't (I've got a set of Henkel Harris Duncan Phyfe style chairs that proves you can't rely on brand name alone). Table legs can usually be tightened. Beds are notorious for being loose, but if they use old fashioned bed bolts, they can be tightened up. I usually equate good quality furniture with being sturdy enough for its intended function (and the very best uses construction techniques and fits that maintain their integrity for generations).

Dovetails are a good constuction technique. Raised panel door construction is another. Mortise and tenon joints are strong and durable (and sometimes may be given away by wooden pegs driven through the tenons). If you look at tables with leaves, look at how the slides are constructed - the heavier and beefier the better.

Look at the secondary woods, and how it is fastened and finished. Since this doesn't show, this is an area where a lot of lower quality goods may cut corners. Any secondary wood that isn't "real wood" would make me question the quality (though I have seen some very nice Baltic birch drawer boxes).

Look at how the pieces are fitted together. On good quality pieces, there will not be any gaps or fillers. You also won't be able to easily tell where they have filled any nail holes.

Finally, look at the visible wood. I like solid wood, because it is easier to repair and finish (look for continuation of end grain around the edge of tops to see if it is solid). But don't discount veneer - some of the best furniture uses veneer (just make sure it is firmly attached, smooth, and flat). Good quality furniture doesn't use finger-jointed lumber, nor will you be able to detect where surface defects have been repaired. Flat surfaces will be flat, not rippled like someone is trying to mimic hand-planing by doing a poor job at it. The finish should be smooth, without dust, runs, orange peel, or splotchy areas.

Note that it is a lot easier to hide poor workmanship or wood under a dark stain. On the other hand, if your into refininishing, sometimes you find diamonds under layers of old paint or varnish.

Trust your gut. Quality is sort of like pornography - hard to define, but you'll know it when you see it.
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Distinguishing decent quality vs. junk in used furniture.

Comments (2)

dcollie

boogamite

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