I prefer the stools as in the second pix, but pull the one to the left over a bit more. Then put a floor plant in front of the left section of the bar area, to cover up the big blank space, and the two stools together won't seem odd. The little lamp is cute, but as others have said, too small for the table. Try it on your kitchen bar area, down at the right end by the wall. It will create a nice soft light for that area when you are not in the kitchen with the overheads on. Congrats on the new home!

That was an amazing find. The dresser is very much like mine, but fancier - mine doesn't have the rope edging. Brought mine in 1986 and it was pricey then. Would have the bed frame too, but we don't have enough room. This is really gorgeous. You got a great deal. I usually use CL to give away stuff that I've replaced, but you've got me wondering how much I'm missing, LOL. Your paint job and new spread really add the right finishing touch. Congrats!

I LOVE Weir's stores -- really gorgeous furniture and supernice employees! Yes -- you CAN sit on the furniture and if you need a coffee or a sugar cookie -- there's a small "General Store" section with lots of goodies. I do recommend the cookies! Of course -- my fav section is the clearance floor. Love to head up there -- and just see if my brain can think of places and ways to use those "leftovers and bargains" Just a pity that my little house is already crammed full -- there have been some extraordinary deals up there! :) If anyone heads down to the store on Knox-Henderson -- there are some great stores all around there too! Love to have a grilled cheese at the soda fountain at the old classic Highland Park Pharmacy next door .....

I will limit my comment to adaptation, and not address all the things one could do if one threw away the purchase. If I had to use this device, I would set it higher by enough that sheet metal could be used to connect the wood cabinetry base to the insert base with angled stainless-steel surfaces. I would suggest an angle from horizontal of around 60 degrees so that rising and expanding effluent (cooking plumes) would reflect toward the baffles. This would also provide some volume for capture of transient high velocity plumes (e.g., opening a pan cover), and also a means of keeping the plume portions that reflect from the baffle plate flat surfaces in the volume long enough to entrain them into the air flow. Choose a blower rated at a sufficiently high CFM that with baffle, duct, and make-up air pressure loss you can achieve 90 ft/min across the entire aperture of the extended cabinet base area. For example, with a 54 x 27 inch base area (10 sq. ft.) you would need 900 CFM and the blower needs to be perhaps 1400 CFM at zero static pressure. ideally, for lower noise, this blower should be outside with a silencer in the duct in between, although this may not apply here. However, because this added base area drives up the needed air flow rate, baffle noise likely will be higher than would otherwise be caused by the baseline 1000 CFM blower. Note that a 60 degree angle implies a baffle height distance above the cooktop of 1.7X the distance between baffle plate edge and cabinet edge. Some angles will have to be different to fit unless the baffle plate and the cabinet section are congruent in shape. A sheet metal shop should be able to cut and bend the necessary sheet metal. As you note, it should overlap the wood at the bottom, for safety and cleaning. Do not make the common mistake of designing the exit ventilation system without in parallel designing the intake (make-up) air system.